Crashtd420 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 And uberkevin you could also measure between the center link tierods and just remove the center crossrod.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 You don't need to separate the ball joints. Loosen the locking nuts on the cross shaft and turn it till the ends come off. I tried counting the turns but one side may be in farther than the other and it's hard to get them started together. Loosen off the lock nuts and measure between the cross rod ends. When you assemble it again adjust them in to the same amount and your toe in will be the same. The cross rod has L&R hand threads. If you turn it one way it screws into both rod ends and toes in, the other way it toes out. Quote Link to comment
Roadster-ka Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 I believe you can remove the oil pan if you simply drop the idler arm assembly and the crosssmember of course. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 just bolt the fixed head on there and run it till it drops. Get a bigger motor on the side and build it at your leisure. Give you time to buy egine stand etc.......... Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Man so many choices, I've narrowed it down to what Hainz and Mike are saying and just fix the exhaust valves and drive it. And also build an L20 on the side. Or what Rick Rat said and just do it right, take the block out, have it boiled out, and have a new L16 that's going to last me a very long time. I've never driven a datsun with the L20 in it so I'm not sure how much difference that motor will make bit it has to be Datsun's iconic engine for a reason. As always I really appreciate everyone helping out. Nick 1 Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 It's a really nice noticeable difference.. I say pull it, freshen up the head, change bearing(s) all cuz you should have all new ones there in the pack so why not. New timing chain from Japan. Maybe even all valves if you can, hell you never know another one could do the same thing.. Unlikely but still. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 All comes down to time and money.. the deeper you go the costs go up... obviously the l20 is nice, but if you were driving the truck and the engine had those burnt valves that l16 will have more power by just rebuilding that head... You might get away with just doing the head... and re-gasket. If you think you might go the l20 route I wouldn't even change the timing chain and gears. Or even remove the front cover, just do the head.. How do the cylinder walls look, if you don't see scoring on the walls your piston rings may be fine... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 1/ Replace valves and button it up. You can opt too rebuild it later this spring or summer and you are only out one head gasket. I think it best to keep it on the road as much as possible and see if there is anything else it needs.. 2/ Do the above (assuming it runs well) but instead, find a rebuildable L20B and build it and install any time you like. L16/18 and L20B look identical. The L20B is 2cm (3/4") taller not that you could notice even if sitting side by side. Only a Ratsuner may notice it or even know where to look for the differences. The L20B has a vertical exit block vent, the L16/18 comes out the side of the block. The L20B has and extra timing chain cover bolt at the top on each side. No one will know or care much if you swap in an L20B. The L20B has 24% more displacement, so makes more power 15-20 HP more. The L20B has a longer stroke so more torque at lower RPMs. Torque is what pushes you back in the seat. The L20B will cost the same to rebuild as an L16/18 The L20B is about 20 pounds heavier or about three bricks, two house cats or a car tire. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Ok that's what I'm doing. I'll fix the head and keep an eye out for a good project L20. The cylinder walls look amazing. And The pistons cleaned up beautifully on the top so the scoring was not bad at all. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 That's what I would do.. keep the truck running and save up for the swap, then you can get the stands and everything else you need to do the swap properly... at least you'll always have the l16 with the matching numbers to the truck, it will probably live on the stand after the swap. Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 And so it begins!! Maybe I'll start a new thread showing the progress? I hope to be completely finished by summer. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 So I guess you decided on the full rebuild.. it's much easier that way... So what head is that? I don't believe the 521 ever came with round exhaust ports. That looks to be a newer year head ... Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I easily could be wrong, but that block also looks like a L-20-B block. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 That would be nice since he believes it's a L16.... looks like the w58 smog head from the l20... Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Right. So i decided to just repair the exhaust valves on the head of my L16 and picked up this L 20 B block and w58 head for my full rebuild. Going to get this pristine and swap it out. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Nice choice! I'm going to start a L20b rebuild this summer also to swap out the L16 I rebuilt last year. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I guess that explains why it looks like an l20 and had the w58 head.... nice score... 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 New thread created. Thanks, everyone! http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?showtopic=71643 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted September 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2017 Ok, everyone! I had to stop this for financial reasons but I'm back to the rebuild! The head has been rebuilt from AutoSport in Seattle and I have a cherry picker to pull the block so I can have it boiled out and put new rings and bearings. The question I have for you all is what's the best way to pull the block if the head is already out? Where do I attach the chains, etc for the pully to be in the best position for leverage? And I'll be doing this solo as I really don't have any friends out here who wrench at all. So your guidance is greatly appreciated!! Again, it's a '71 521 with an L16 in it. Thanks!! Nick. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 30, 2017 Report Share Posted September 30, 2017 Are you planning to pull the transmission out with it? Hopefully just the block... With the head off maybe use some straps around the block... I would think ratchet tie down even have enough strength.... Use a rag or block of wood on the edges even if they are not sharp.... 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 30, 2017 Report Share Posted September 30, 2017 Go to a hardware store, and get some M10-1.5 bolts, about 25 to 35 mm long. Also get a piece of chain, about 18 inches long, that the M10 bolts will go through the end links. Use the bolts to attach the chain to one of the front head bolt holes, and to one of the rear head bolt holes, diagonal across the block. Attach the engine hoist to the chain. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Everything is disassembled, going to the machine shop tomorrow to have the block boiled out and honed, then putting it all back together! 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 https://youtu.be/75LcW7RGOpY 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted November 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 So it looks like I put the cart before the horse... I had the machine shop rebuild the head, but the #1 Cylinder is worn and they're recommending boring it out. So now do I do that and eat the cost of pistons and reboring or do I just scrap the block, sell the head on ebay and rebuild the L20 thats sitting in my garage? I was planning on making that L20 a hot rod engine and putting it in the truck later. Just not sure what to do, don't know if I want to continue putting money in an L16. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 Most need reboring. Guess you could just rering the old pistons if nobody took them apart and just see how it goes. Im sure the L20 will need new bore also. Say it out of round. Thats what they to me also(autosport Seattle) Bu I had pistons already. find a running L16/18 to put in. 1 Quote Link to comment
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