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New Rings/Bearings/Timing Chain help

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So it's time! I've been putting it off for a while but I'm going in to do new rings, going to have the head redone at a machine shop and figure it's best to do the timing chain while I'm at it and hopefully not have to touch it for the next 100k!

 

Do I need new rod bearings if I'm not machining the crank?

 

I have provided links (and an image) of the parts I plan to order to do the job properly and welcome any and all advice to make sure I'm doing the best job possible for my truck. Not sure if the entire timing chain kit is necessary but I want to do it properly.

 

I really appreciate this forum and everyone on it, so thanks in advance!

 

links below:

 

Rings:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182247398372

 

Gaskets:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Head-Gasket-Set-fits-Datsun-Nissan-510-521-620-1968-1973-with-L16-Engine-/182247440700?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item2a6ecb413c:g:70IAAOSwGYVW-4xQ&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Pan-Gasket-fits-Datsun-L16-L18-L20B-Z20-Z22-Z24-1968-1989-/182334815737?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item2a74007df9:g:Y-YAAOSwo4pYepEO&vxp=mtr

 

Bearings?:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-510-BLUEBIRD-521-610-620-710-L16-L18-L20B-0-010-25MM-ROD-BEARING-SET-/131933039903?hash=item1eb7d26d1f:g:62wAAMXQ6BRRYyiU&vxp=mtr

 

Timing Chain Kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122345918106

 

 

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Have you price matched this stuff on rockauto? Sometimes they have a better selection and cheap.

 

Regarding the bearings, if you are going in that deep, replace the bearings. Without measuring the bearing clearance and the crank, there is no way to know. I would at least inspect them first.

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You don't have to do the bearings if they look good but if your that deep in the motor i would, unless this is a budget rebuild...

Personally I don't like itm stuff, but the parts look correct, except for the bearings. I am assuming you have an l16 motor Because of the post but you never actually staTed that.. plus the bearings you show are for undersize ground cranks and rods journals.

Draker is right, best to disassemble and inspect before ordering. And yes the whole timing chain kit is a good idea, gears and chains really should be replaced as a set.

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What's your confidence level on doing this, is this your first time doing an engine rebuild? Just curious before I comment more...

And do you stunt ride a suzuki?

2 favorites in my garage

72 521

2000 gsxr 600 with all the stunt mods...

(Crash cages, 12 bar, hand brake for rear)

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Autosport in Seattle can put the bottom end together.

That timmng chain kit might be a tailand clone. Wheres it made. Try to find a Japan kit. Tsubaki is the best.Has the brite link to match up also.

 

Maybe you need new pistons ? You dont know till you mic the bores ect........

 

 

I would not buy that kit you posted.

 

DO NOT buy Cloyes or a Melling kit

 

 

if everything is done correctly and clean I could bolt the head and put the timming chain kit on for you if needed. (On engine stand)

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Your bearing are going to have some wear, maybe not much but some. If the engine is apart replace them with new ones. This will be more correct for clearances than the old ones.

 

Cheaper isn't always better. That's ok on something easy to get at when it fails like a light bulb. Where possible get Japanese made parts. Find out where your parts are made. I wouldn't run any internal parts made in China.

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if everything is done correctly and clean I could bolt the head and put the timming chain kit on for you if needed. (On engine stand)

Man thank you so much! What a generous offer.

 

This is exactly why I posted here. I have used Rock Auto before but stopped using them after the sent me some pretty crappy wheel cylinders. Maybe I'll revisit and be more diligent with the parts I select.

 

I have rebuilt an engine, but I did it with my old man about 20 years ago. Even tho I'll be going at it alone this time I'm looking forward to the challenge.

 

I'm getting the head done at Johnnie's Machine in Ballard. Brad seems to know his way around the L series pretty well.

 

I do have the L 16, apologies for not stating that above.

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For rings and bearings Rock Auto has Sealed Power which appears to be an American brand. Have you guys used these parts before?

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For rings and bearings Rock Auto has Sealed Power which appears to be an American brand. Have you guys used these parts before?

 

I believe I have these in my motor right now. 

 

Double check to make sure the parts you are looking at are the correct size for your application.

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Your bearing are going to have some wear, maybe not much but some. If the engine is apart replace them with new ones. This will be more correct for clearances than the old ones.

 

Cheaper isn't always better. That's ok on something easy to get at when it fails like a light bulb. Where possible get Japanese made parts. Find out where your parts are made. I wouldn't run any internal parts made in China.

I totally agree! This is why I hit you guys up. So as long as the crank shaft is nice and smooth I don't need to have it machined to put new bearings in?

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I'm running an OSK. One thing to note on mine, the spacing of the holes in the cam gear made it difficult to see the timing marks on the cam tower. I was able to work it out by marking the locations from the old pulley. That might not be an issue here.. but worth nothing. Otherwise, seemed quality. Gold links on the chain do make it easy to install.

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You should be all set... you have basic knowledge and access to a good machine shop who knows datsun it sounds like... if it was me I'd start there before I bought anything, they might have a parts supplier to get you the parts you need...

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And do you stunt ride a suzuki?

 

I don't stunt ride at all anymore. I'm too old now! Sometimes on dirt I'll get a little squirly. I have a 77 CB 550 and a Yamaha Vstar 1100 now. Man I never thought I'd own a cruiser! But I took it across the country last summer camped for three weeks with my friends on bikes and it was the best time of my life, so I don't hate on cruisers anymore. I think I want to get a Duke next.

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I used Sealed Power bearings in my engine and so far so good. Sealed Power is a Federal Mogul brand. They've been around long enough so I trusted their parts.

 

The OSK timing set I got did not have the notches on the cam sprocket to line up on the cam retainer plate. I guess some have the notches, some don't. I used an old sprocket to line the cam up then matched the bright links to the dimples on the sprockets, and everything was good.

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OSK used to be OK but the newer kits dont have the V notch on the sprocket what I hear. Mine had a slightly bigger hole when fitted on the cam dowl.

 

The kit is the correct one you posted but at $112 is abit much. If for a L20 I would get it but if you can find it cheaper then go for it. As the L16/18/24/26/28 are really all the same height(chain length). wheich should be cheaper as they are more of those motors.

 

Terri at Autopsort/Johhny Machine was the guy I talked to I dont know if hes still there.He did 2 of my blocks.  also put the ARP rod bolts in.

 

He said my crank was so good that he just put standard size bearing in.  However piston bore was out of round and then I got new pistons and rebore. thats when it started costing me some money.

 

Maybe you coul get by on a rering to keep cost down as I wouldnt spend alot of money on a L16 again if I had a L20 to pick from again as the cost is the same

 

 

I notice that the OSK brand shows a 104 in the part number as the Tsubaki kit also. I hope you going to get thew correct one cause I see another show a 102 part number in there I would think that be the shorter chain length one. Well if you get the wrong one I might have a short kit as a spare we could trade if needed. I like the Tsubaki kits.As the top sprocker is same as the Nissan ones if Tsubaki isnt the OEM sullier already

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I don't stunt ride at all anymore. I'm too old now! Sometimes on dirt I'll get a little squirly. I have a 77 CB 550 and a Yamaha Vstar 1100 now. Man I never thought I'd own a cruiser! But I took it across the country last summer camped for three weeks with my friends on bikes and it was the best time of my life, so I don't hate on cruisers anymore. I think I want to get a Duke next.

Don't worry it's happening to me too.. I stopped street riding once I got back to mass... ended up on atvs in the woods. Now I am even putting quiter exhausts on so I can go with my wife and kid, he's 5 and already luvs datsuns and atvs... lucky for me...

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And hainz are you sure on the L20b vs L16/L18 timing set? I mostly questioning the chain.. i know they put all 3 in the same gasket set but there are different gaskets for the front cover... Just curious because I thought the l20 was taller? So the distance from center of crank to center of cam should be taller on the L20b vs L16...

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And hainz are you sure on the L20b vs L16/L18 timing set? I mostly questioning the chain.. i know they put all 3 in the same gasket set but there are different gaskets for the front cover... Just curious because I thought the l20 was taller? So the distance from center of crank to center of cam should be taller on the L20b vs L16...

 

He said "L16/18/24/26/28 are really all the same height"

 

L20 is taller and not mentioned above.

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I replaced my rings with sealed power from rock auto. It's working great! The top ring was different than the oem one, I think to reduce friction? It was stepped/tapered so there was less ring material to contact the cylinder walls. The other two rings looked just like stock.

Like everyone has said, disassembled you will know for sure what you're working with

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Draker your right and i do believe that part of the statement to be true ( atleast the 16/18/24 would be the same chain, cant comment on the l26 or l28... but just before that hainz stated this...

 

"If for a L20 I would get it but if you can find it cheaper then go for it"....

 

That's why I asked....

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I think he means it was priced right if it was an L20 set. But it's not and you could probably get it elsewhere for less.

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I really meant if one is going to rebuild a L motor I would do a L20 instead of a L16 as the cost is the same.

 

 

L 20 is taller

 

Now on the parts numbers what I see from ebay listed on the main part of the part numbers is 102 and 104. I wonder if the 104 you had listed is really a L20 chain set. I dont know. I can only hope you get the right part number as the headline lised 200sx 510 610 ect.. but really only the 510 521 had a L 16 .Till you scoll down and see the listeing. I know your confused now.. as I wonder if ther 102 and 104 is the total chain length thats in the part number

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