That4doorKiD Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 This is my first time using a spray gun :lol: and doing a shaved bay. but fuk it rite, I wasn't gonna stop after all that stupid sanding and resanding bare metal escaping the rain. Sorry if I'm moist guys, the hard work just makes me feel so accomplished. And jesus it's crazy to know that people do this for a living! Fuk engine bays! 1 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Fast forward another two weeks to yesterday, and I layed down some primer. I got better and the hang of it! No runs and minimal orange peel. My compressor would run a bit low on pressure causing my gun to start spraying a bit funky like a spray bottle. But, for the most part I sprayed a pretty decent 2 coats or primer. Tadah. definitely not showcar clean but my harbor freight gun and I gave it all we got. PS no point in cleaning them, I bought like 3 already. Picked up some 637 EggShell Off White today at the paint shop. Some single stage 1k laquer paint like the original formula. I want to repaint my front valence and under sides soon. You guys will see the results tomorrow hehe. But as of next paycheck, I'm going in full blast this summer -Front suspension parts all new again -L20b stock rebuild -N42 manifold that I have yet to cut up and weld. Someone please PM me if your willing to get paid and do it -stainless t3 manifold .... exhaust, intercooler, megasquirt, etc... little guy things 4 Quote Link to comment
nl320what Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Keep in mind you can use factory parts in the L20B to increase power output, also if you use a simple Propane setup with Turbo, all you need is the MSnEDIS for spark control, food for thought as Propane is 110 octane and requires no carb to inject it, one less thing to worry about. Turbo 2.2L7.87:1 Compression ratio with 45.2cc open chambered head.Parts: Z22 crank, 2.2E pistons, Z22S/L20B rods in Z22block or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm,s/2+r+p: 224.4piston deck height: -3.45 (below block) 1 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Keep in mind you can use factory parts in the L20B to increase power output, also if you use a simple Propane setup with Turbo, all you need is the MSnEDIS for spark control, food for thought as Propane is 110 octane and requires no carb to inject it, one less thing to worry about. Turbo 2.2L 7.87:1 Compression ratio with 45.2cc open chambered head. Parts: Z22 crank, 2.2E pistons, Z22S/L20B rods in Z22block or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm, s/2+r+p: 224.4 piston deck height: -3.45 (below block) definitely using longer rods for a better CR. If not stock compression, I want to get the motor to 9:1 or something close. I don't have any spare cranks from a different motor and not willing to get one yet. Any piston/rod combo I can use with the l20b crank will be in my best interest 2 Quote Link to comment
nl320what Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 It will need to be tuned very rich and not very much boost till it pings under boost at 9:1 static compression.... it may suck really bad driving it cause it will ping when you jump on the throttle, or even on a hot day above 80degrees may start to ping and retards timing alot to help. You have heard all that already though, all the warnings on it. Long rod 2.1 LParts: L20B crank, Z22E pistons, Z20E rods in a Z22block or Z20/L20B block bored +2mms/2+r+p: 227.9mmpiston deck height: +0.05mm (above block) 2 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 (edited) Finished bay! Need to sand and polish soon I learned how to spray? after sanding coat after messed up coats. Single stage came out really nice. These pics do NOT have good sunlight. They'll get better soon! and I got a lot of interesting content soon. Anyone have a source for z20e rods? Or else I'm gonna do another stock L Edited July 25, 2018 by That4doorKiD 2 Quote Link to comment
nl320what Posted July 26, 2018 Report Share Posted July 26, 2018 Not easy to find, but they are out there in the classifieds alot as whole 200SX cars or motors. Z20E is the EFI block, has slightly longer rod than the Z20S carbie motor. These certain motors we tend to grab and set aside whole or bag the parts from Parts Yards knowing at some point we may use them. The gain would be ehhhh using them, if your going to build a custom motor and spend the time inside it, might as well start with a superior unit like a SR/KA, otherwise stock build is best. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 26, 2018 Report Share Posted July 26, 2018 Z20 with open L head is.............................................. 9.9 compression Above with closed chamber head.............................10.68 Z20S from mileage option 720................................... 9.0 (has a special small chamber head) Run in Z series configuration it has hemi combustion chambers, dual plug design and is cross flow, lending itself to a turbo application. The Z20S also has a knock sensor and ignition retard. In stock form the Z head doesn't have good high speed flow but... that what turbos were made for. 2 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 (edited) Finally got my rear crossmember sandblasted! Rough draft... Cowcalations and stencil drafting.. Super close on the first try, but the arc was a bit too short. The stencil wasn't able to wrap around the control arm arch. ( As seen on the left side corner that is folded to fit) After a few failed attempts and redrafting, I decided to do in increments on a single stencil and decide which arc to use through the elimination process?, which I should've done in the first place. 3 days ago I had no idea how to use Autocad, so I watched about 6 youtube videos. Today, I designed my brake caliper bracket xD! It's a 2D design so it wasn't so complicated to draw. weld on dual caliper bracket z32 nissan datsun 510 rear caliper swap ratsun how to And I will leave the DWG file on here for anyone to use. I'll be sending the file out tomorrow for a waterjet cutting. It should be under about 80$ for 2 of these. Satisfied with this fitment! The most exciting thing about this caliper swap is that it'll fit under 15s? My mouth is watering just thinkiong about the little shiny red nissan pots appearing under the wheels at moving speed.. . I'm painting them red AND WHITE nissan letters. IMO there's no point of a dual piston caliper swap on a 510 if you don't paint them. Edited November 9, 2018 by That4doorKiD forgot something 1 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 (edited) Girthy? and bare ready for sealer and some paint Extra ass picture to let you guys know what parts I have stashed z32 rear disc fits perfectly over the 510 hub and centers itself through the hubs taper. I thought I was going to have to send them out to get drilled first before I started the brackets. But sometimes the water touches the seed before the sprout. I'll be drilling the 3 114.3 holes when needed in the future. I want my steering to be tight and no sway at idle. Investing my money into all the suspension parts is a must! The arms will get blasted and sealed as well. Hopefully I'll have the rear subframe in the car by the end of the week. If not, maybe another 2 weeks. Coming up next, I will be ordering pistons and bearings for a stock L20b to rebuild that I've had for a while. The dumb machinist did .030 over and it's hard to find pistons that size. Anyone have a reference? I really wanted to do forged pistons, and do the motor right once, but it'll just set me back a few more months cost wise of getting my girl back on the road. Honestly, I feel it's way better to pop my efi / tuning cherry on a stock motor instead of risk damaging a more liable motor that'd be built with forged internals. It'll be fun to push a stock l20 to the limits and see what power it makes? Edited November 9, 2018 by That4doorKiD Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 (edited) and that 4 inch exhaust hole is for a 3 inch exhaust. My 510 will shoot flames in between shifts. From an L20b. Be ready guys. Cause I'm not! Edited November 9, 2018 by That4doorKiD Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 17 hours ago, That4doorKiD said: I will be ordering pistons and bearings for a stock L20b to rebuild that I've had for a while. The dumb machinist did .030 over and it's hard to find pistons that size. Common problem since most domestic engines are bored .030 or .060, with most Japanese engines being bored .020 or .040. I think the second actually translates to 1/4mm or 1/2mm? Had a machine shop do this once and had to take it back. Always, always, always send the pistons with the engine. ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 1mm is just a c hair under 0.040" L20B factory over size are .5mm (0.020") or 1mm (0.40") A .5mm (0.020") over size piston will easily fit the 0.030" bore but will be massively loose. Piston to wall clearance is roughly 0.001" to 0.002". Buy 1mm over size pistons and rings and re bore it to fit them. There really is no other way. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 25 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Buy 1mm over size pistons and rings and re bore it to fit them. There really is no other way. This. 1 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 On 11/9/2018 at 3:42 PM, datsunfreak said: On 11/9/2018 at 3:42 PM, datsunfreak said: This. On 11/9/2018 at 3:35 PM, datzenmike said: 1mm is just a c hair under 0.040" L20B factory over size are .5mm (0.020") or 1mm (0.40") A .5mm (0.020") over size piston will easily fit the 0.030" bore but will be massively loose. Piston to wall clearance is roughly 0.001" to 0.002". Buy 1mm over size pistons and rings and re bore it to fit them. There really is no other way. This. This. is what I went with hehehhe Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted April 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Jesus i haven't been on here for a long time but here's an update! Pics to come soon Components acquired: ARP Main Studs ARP Rod Studs 86mm SR20 Wiseco forgeduhh Pistons -12cc Main Bearings .5mm over Rod Bearings .5mm over L20b Block bored to 86mm crank turned .020" over main and rods Ford Blue engine paint can Engine stand 750lb. 300zx z31 Fuel Pump Carrier Hanger 3/8 inch fuel lines My rods got resized on the small end without a brass bushing to fit the Wiseco piston full floating pins. So basically it's time to assemble the block and rebuild a head now! Can't wait to assemble my first short block. I've been trying to research which would be a better option to up my compression. Closed A87 head or a 210 L16 head with Bigger valves. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 How deep is the dish on the SR pistons ? An actual picture of the top of them at an angle would be most welcome also. The pin height on an SR piston is 32mm, and am curious if I can turn a set into flat-tops with a 29mm pin height for an L18 build. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 The only thing I would do with a 210 head is scrap it. I had a 210 head crack internally and oil would get into the water jacket, I have heard only the 210 head did this, and it was common enough of an issue for Datsun mechanics to know what this issue was, when I asked a Datsun mechanic about oil in my water he said get another head. 1 Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Ok ok so I'm only going for a 350 Hp L20b now. Honestly I don't want wait any longer. New Key Components LOOKING 4 Carb manifold Holley 2bbl Sniper EFI (Cheaper than Megasquirt and L18 EFI Factory Setup) Fuel Cell EFI Pump in tank Hard Fuel lines Appropriate Clutch T28 or GT30 maybe The motor will be able to handle 350 no problem, but I don't know how much the carb manifold will act as a limiting factor. We will see, only experience and time will tell. 86mm JE Pistons currently L20b Stock Rods Honed to 22mm Full Floating Pin Composite Headgasket ARP studs everywhere Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 It was a pretty penny to get this head Ported and Polished hehe JDM A87 Factory EFI Peanut Head Chambers are polished as well ISKY Springs but Stock retainers ISKY Cam ground to 450intake/440exhaust idk the duration, I'll have to check later As far as the lash caps, I am in need of aftermarket thicker ones and new rocker arms Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) Recently bought this in the summer... I'm probably not going to use it until I make another and improved turbo manidold. The old octo one won't clear the front TB, that's why I'm gonna go with a throttle Body EFI carb set up This is L-series swag Edited December 8, 2019 by That4doorKiD Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Where you get this head gasket?Nevee heard of composite head gasket. Compisision yes like a Felpro(lame) Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 57 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Where you get this head gasket?Nevee heard of composite head gasket. Compisision yes like a Felpro(lame) I was assuming the nismo headgasket is composite. Whoops well whatever the 0.80 over L20b one is on ebay. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 I don’t think That head gasket is going to handle 350hp for too long Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 You paid MONEY for THAT port job ?!? 1 Quote Link to comment
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