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That4doorKiD

Noob Turbo L-16 from Hell

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This area is only sealing in oil spray and fumes and while not critical it looks like crap and can be a pain in the ass.

 

If it was mine I would thoroughly degrease this area with carb or brake spray and smear black RTV on it with a finger working it into the gasket area. Then wipe it away so it wasn't noticeable. Black would only be in the cracks and crevices. I hate seeing any RTV on and engine, but in this case...

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Yeah! Thinking the same thing, it's a bitch to take off the timing cover and reseal with RTV. I might smear some JB weld Steel Stick putty I have

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Lower the front of the oil pan. Then the timing cover slides in easily. Don't use jb weld as gasket. It will only make things worse next time you need to get inside the engine.

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Don't fuck with the front cover or you'll cause an oil leak lower down. The crank pulley, oil pump, water pump, distributor, alternator and rad all have to come off for this... too much work for the bother.

 

Don't use anything to seal that will not come apart.

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I would like to make it clear to everyone... I only assisted with pulling the motor. Resealing was not done under my supervision, but I did say to use RTV on the headgasket between the head/timing cover.

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I'll have video of me doing U joint and head gasket  tmrw

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Let's bet on which wheel spins

 

Counting on an open diff two tire

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Yeah, the mild steel manifold is fine. How you've chosen to build it won't last long, but that turbo will be just about right.

 

Blow-through carb on the Hitachi is a no-go. Will not work, as the throttle shafts are not sealed and the floats will crush unless you replace them with nitrophyl. You must make sure the float bowls are sealed and referenced to be boost and not atmospheric, your fuel pressure regulator must be boost referenced, and you need to convert your distributor to a boost retard vacuum advance canister.

 

Failure to do any one of these things will result in you driving the car exactly ONCE before you destroy the pistons.

 

Now, that said, I dig this project and am totally down to help you get organized in what you need to do to make it happen. I am currently tooling up to make another run of turbo manifolds and EFI intakes, but seeing as you are all about doing this on a budget, I suggest a draw through setup. Read up on draw through carburator this, and come back.

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So most of that last post still stands, but I just realized this thread had multiple pages..

 

Things are getting better but you are still a few iterations away yet. When I get back to the desktop I'll add someore info for you.

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When I get back to the desktop I'll add someore info for you.

 

I wouldn't worry to much about that...   ^_^

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Hopefully my broken u joint still survives

 

Wouldn't count on it

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Car is misfiring under load like after 2k rpm. Able to drive with little throttle until I get up to half way the motor can't handle it and start misfiring and sputtering. Fine when I rev it all the way up in neutral or disengaged.

 

According to my boost gauge, my carb isn't seeing boost.

 

Checked timing and fuel, both good.

Checked spark plugs and they looked black/burned.

Brand new iridium .035 gap

 

I'm thinking since my carb isn't sealing with any boost, my special (boost activated 2psi) power valve is not activated and enriching fuel to my secondary

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Gonna re gap to .032 see if that helps, then run my turbo straight to the carb...see if it's the boost leak causing this

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Regap plugs to at least .024-.026. .032 is too wide and the boost will blow em out. Also, what is your AFR gauge saying when it sputters and misfires?

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Is there a video of this even running?

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If the plugs are black and burned...you're too rich and fouling.

 

Wideband should have been hooked up before the turbo...you should have learned to tune before you tried to boost the carb.

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