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That4doorKiD

Noob Turbo L-16 from Hell

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Been driving my bad boy for a few months now enjoy driving it to school everyday. So I have a job at McDee's and making some other cash selling on eBay, and I wanted

 

something new on my car to have fun with. But anyways, after so many failed quick take offs and throttle punches): it's time to have some fun with turbo. Excuse me ahead of

 

time...I'm spending on a tight budget alright, so give me a break :lol:  

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So here's some parts I've got this week...

-$50 JMT Gt28 Turbo charger (A/R 60, pretty good size for a 1.6 Liter)

-Holley Carburetor Dust cover Aluminum Lid

-Cut up header my Dad has, so I will be salvaging it for my turbo manifold :thumbup: 

-Elbows that came off it 

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So I was up late last night and made my manifold's log and left side's

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The Angled elbows i had already, just had to trim them and trim some smaller elbows. Everything is being held by magnets in the picture above.

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One side done, need to trim the log more and do the right side.

My T3 turbo inlet flange is in the mail coming soon hopefully.

My plans are just to build the manifold so I can tac it up and have someone weld it for me. I'm not experienced with welding lol

 

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So far I've been rotary filing everything from a drill hole point, and using a bandsaw to cut the pipes. Here's my bonnet my the stock carb made of all aluminum just need to

 

take it to an exhaust shop for them to weld it for me hehee

 

And yes I am using the stock carburetor to turbo  :D

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3 inch  on the bottom pipe to match carburetor lip

Will be fitted together with a silicon intake hose 

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(will be using my rebuilt carb, electric fuel pump, & fuel pressure regulator)

 

I think taking off my oil pan and putting on an extra with tapped return oil line is gonna be a pain in the ass :poop:

 

Meanwhile, soon I'll order the necessary gauges, regulator, and bov, intercooler. But this is all i need to get started

 

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I think taking off my oil pan and putting on an extra with tapped return oil line is gonna be a pain in the ass :poop:

 

 

No more than the rest of the project. Should be easy to do while you pull the engine to put appropriate internals that won't melt on your first drive :D

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^^Just like the mild steel header will fail. Them shit headers aren't good enough for a stock engine much less a turbo. Hopefully it doesn't go up in flames on the first run.

 

Kid, buy yourself a decent fire extinguisher.

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I'll throw some support your way. It's a cool project, but honestly going to a turbo set up with virtually no supporting mods is not the best way to do it. You will pretty much have one of two options. 1. run boost so low that it's not really a big step up in performance, or 2. run a good amount of boost, and end up replacing almost everything you are putting on it right now. It's your car, do what you want, and I personally love seeing people throw together cars on a cheap budget, but just know what you're getting into man.

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Interesting, but it looks like your are blowing through the carburetor and if so you should pressurize the entire carburetor or get a blow through carburetor.  Or you can suck through the carburetor.

 

Take a look at the following

 

http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/299573-THINKING-ABOUT-GOING-BLOW-THRU-READ-THIS-BEFORE-POSTING

 

 

Be Safe and don't burn down your car.  You can learn from some failures, die from others.

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thank you for all the + positive support.

 

And if you suggest me rebuilding my motor with supporting mods my paypal is: jacobhernandez7030@gmail.com

 

I think my rings and pistons will be fine with enough cooling, retard timing, and 98 oct fuel. I will forsue upgrade my headgasket asap. Not looking for a total stage 3+ motor, just

 

looking to boost it to a level where I can keep my motor still alive. 

 

AND IT doesn't hurt to build myself a turboed 510 spending less than 150$ in parts geeez layoff

 

So far:

TurboCharger  $50.00

Silicon adapter $5.99

Holley Cap       $13.99

Alum. Scrap     $5.00

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Keep the boost below 7-8 PSI then. In theory this will give you about 50% more hp, but in reality a bit less because you will need to retard the timing to keep it alive.

 

Run cool air from in front of the rad to the turbo. Do not boost warm air from behind the rad.

 

Run a larger secondary jet to run richer when boosting.

 

Not sure how the fuel pump is going to keep the carb full of gas pushing 3 PSI against 7 psi in the float chamber.

 

Rig up a water injection using your windshield washer pump.

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Not sure how the fuel pump is going to keep the carb full of gas pushing 3 PSI against 7 psi in the float chamber.

 

Interesting question...

 

If the float chamber is vented to atmosphere as it normally is, do you think this would still be an issue? 

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Yeah.  The vents are into the air horn the air filter hosing clamps onto. Or in this case the har the turbo blows air into. 

 

The Hitachi fuel pump produced 2.8 to 3.4 PSI. If turbo is above this when the float drops and opens the needle valve to let gas in from the pump, the pressurized air will be pushing back the other way. You can't push 3.4 PSI into 7 PSI going the other way. The fuel bowl will empty and run out of gas.

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Yeah.  The vents are into the air horn the air filter hosing clamps onto. Or in this case the har the turbo blows air into. 

 

Right. I was thinking of a 32/36.   ^_^

 

Throw them away so fast that I forgot what a stock carb even looks like...  :rofl:

 

On a Weber they don't vent into the throttle bore, but do still vent into the air cleaner. But I think with a Weber you could "fix" that problem. 

 

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Of course the "right" way to fix it is just to build a draw-through set-up...    B)

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Or what about some rubber hoses around those vent tubes and vent them to the outside of the hat?

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You need an electric fuel pump and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator set to 3.4lbs higher than the boost you are running. Not sure it'll work with a shitachi though.

 

For the record, draw through is not the correct way to go, just easier for the lazy. Kid, it's a lot more in depth than you seem to think, more expensive too. The pump/regulator setup is in the hundreds, you'll roach your motor if it goes lean at boost, you'll want a wideband afr to tune properly and for monitoring. The list goes on. I've spent lots of time researching blow through and decided it's for later with a proper budget. Granted, you're young and won't listed to us experienced folk, but I feel better having warned you. Don't turn it into a GLWS situation.

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Personally, you should have kept that l18 and SU's you had a year ago. Those would have been plenty o' fun ;) But that's my personal op. Goodluck with this build, and take it slow to get everything right.

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Yikes!!....please don't turbo an L series with low budget....it's hard enough with top shelf parts....

 

My suggestion.....save your money and get an SR or KA already turbo equipped, in the long run....you'll spend way less.

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I support your efforts - Here are my two Lincolns:

 

Disclaimer: I have been building and tuning custom and factory turbo systems for 20 years. I also, more recently taught fuel injection and forced induction theory at a technical school.

 

First off, I recommend you buy Maximum Boost by Corky Bell.  All the theory you need is in the text.

 

 Blow thru is very difficult to tune, and some carbs are not equipped with the proper fuel circuits that need to be modified for boosted applications. Adding pressure above atmospheric to the top of the carb does not guarantee increased fuel delivery. Sometimes, you will get the opposite!

 

Just a few thoughts:

 

*With blow thru, the throttle shafts must be machined and o-rings installed to prevent air/fuel from squirting out the sides. Not doing this make the carb almost impossible to tune...and a fire hazard.

*Some carbs will need tiny holes drilled into the float bowl to increase delivery to the main jets under boost.

*Your main jets should be increased or drilled to compensate for the increased demand.

*Emulsion tubes will need bigger holes drilled, sometimes in gradient steps

*Idle jets will need to be increased.

*A boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator will need to be built or purchased.

*Fuel system need to be designed around your delivery requirements,

*Tuning tools (quality wide band is a must, I use an Innovate Motorsports) 

*Blow thru and draw thru have pros and cons. Done correctly, neither is simple or cheap.

 

 - Now all if this is not just a formula. Figuring out what to do to your carb, and how much, and in which circuits requires a solid understanding of how carbs work and more specifically how yours works. Then, you apply the theory you gained from reading MB (also recommend Turbomania by Bob Tomlinson).

Of course this also assumes you have a working knowledge of how a turbo system works. What is your static compression ratio? What is the max compression your engine will handle before ventilating the block? Your static CR plus Boost (plugged into a formula taking into account your fuel and target AFR, and thermal management) will give you your effective compression ratio. Go beyond this, and kaboom. 

 

I tell you all of this from a perspective of experience and someone who has blown up more than my share of cars by making the mistake of either ignoring theory or throwing together a build using the cheapest stuff I could find. 

 

Below is a pic of my turbo VW engine in the mockup phase. (It's the only clear pic I have of the Fuel pressure regulator, I built this ten years ago.)

motor1.jpg

 

If you look closely at the top hat of the FPR, mounted at the apex of the fan shroud, you will see a vacuum line coming out of it. I drilled and tapped a hole for a NPT fitting on the top of the diaphragm. When the turbo builds pressure, it also adds pressure to the top of the regulator, increasing the pressure in a linear fashion. Its a simple way to make a boost referenced FPR. This setup was run draw-thru using an HS6 SU carb. IMHO, an SU is by far the easiest carb to mod for a draw thru setup. It requires testing and buying a ton of different needles (I ended up filing and making my own to fine tune) and playing around with different fluids in the chamber. I ended up with Type F ATF in mine. It was a single port, 36 HP engine and she made 77WHP on the snail...and lived :).

 

Edit: this was my "budget" build and I spent about 900 bucks on it (a third of it was for the SU build). I did not mod the engine internals, but I spec' ed the system to the edge of failure for the stock engine. 

 

I support your passion and want you to succeed. But please  A) don't get pissed when we give solid advice and B ) don't skip reading up on theory. This one thing will save you more money and make you more power than all the right parts ever could.

 

Keep on posting pics and asking questions. This could be a cool project, but it will need some rethinking to work. 

 

BTW, I have all the formulas for figuring out your fuel system requirements and pressure limits, among others, if you decide to build this thing to last longer than a weekend.

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Never thought of the need to O-ring the throttle shafts, hopefully it's not a problem because many blow throughs didn't need this. And yes all, I will put on an electric fuel pump to match up +3 fuel PSI to

 

boost. My electric fuel pump is already at home and as a spare part. And sorry I am ignorant :lol: , but I have enough common sense and creativity/motivation to get this working.

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Keep the boost below 7-8 PSI then. In theory this will give you about 50% more hp, but in reality a bit less because you will need to retard the timing to keep it alive.

 

 

Not sure how the fuel pump is going to keep the carb full of gas pushing 3 PSI against 7 psi in the float chamber.

 

Rig up a water injection using your windshield washer pump.

Yes, will be keeping boost under 8psi, going with a front mount intercooler under my bumper and in front of my lip..etc. Who saidI would use stock pump lol electric fuel pump will be installed. Is the water injection totallyyy necessary?

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Is the water injection totallyyy necessary?

 

It's a very good idea. It keeps detonation at bay, and keeps the cylinders/oil cleaner. Remember that with a carb you cannot intercool this, so running water or alcohol injection is the only way you'll likely ever get over 5-6psi. 

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