Dat

[sick620]

A friend and I recently picked up two 620's. One was mine, one was his. Paid $900 for my kc 79. Paid $300 for his 76 singlecab. He decided he didn't want his. He got a different car. So I now have 2 620s. Plans are to do a full build on the red truck. And a half ass fun artsy build on the black one. Our first project was to lower them. They were giving me a nose bleed so went with the cheapest fastest way possible for now. The kc we removed a leaf so it's down to just the main one and small overload plus 3 inch blocks. In the front just turned down the torsions all the way without reindexing them. Pulled all the bump stops. Truck still has travel in the front, back slaps frame on the smallest indentations in the road. Going to bag it soon anyways.

 

As for the single cab we left leaf pack all in (believe someone already dearched them), 3 inch blocks, and turned torsions nearly all the way down. No reindexing. The single cab is stiffer in back and doesn't slap frame, front has good travel. Will probably just try new shocks on it and see how it rides.

 

The kc also needs the exhaust tended too now because it hangs low and catches on everything now. The single cab had a pretty nice high n tight custom exhaust so no problems there.

 

The 76. It has a rebuilt l20b. Weber carb. Nice exhaust. Runs really good.

 

 

 

 

 

This is the reason the 76 was so cheap. This piece on tranny is broken so won't go in gear.

 

 

So we picked this up, think it's just a 4 speed.

 

[datzenmike]

The kc we removed a leaf so it's down to just the main one and small overload plus 3 inch blocks. In the front just turned down the torsions all the way without reindexing them. Pulled all the bump stops. Truck still has travel in the front, back slaps frame on the smallest indentations in the road. Going to raise front shock towers, and get new shocks (air shocks for rear) ,and c notch frame. Also going to try clamping front of overload to main leaf like a traction bar type idea to help stiffen it a little.

 

As for the single cab we left leaf pack all in (believe someone already dearched them), 3 inch blocks, and turned torsions nearly all the way down. No reindexing. The single cab is stiffer in back and doesn't slap frame, front has good travel. Will probably just try new shocks on it and see how it rides.

 

Both trucks will need shims to correct pinion angle. Kc has really bad pinion angle right now.

 

The kc also needs the exhaust tended too now because it hangs low and catches on everything now. The single cab had a pretty nice high n tight custom exhaust so no problems there.

 

Will post pics tonight.

 

Never remove leaves from the springs to lower. This makes the spring softer and it will travel farther on bumps. A lowered vehicle needs stiffer springs to prevent 'slapping the frame' and bottoming out the exhaust.

[sick620]

Here's the 79. Has original l20b, 4speed, matchbox dizzy (stock), has some really clean mercury bucket seats In it. Running some 720 steel wheels with snow ❄ tires for now. Just got a Weber, a non smog intake, and l16 exhaust mani for it to clean up the engine bay more.

 

 

 

[sick620]

[sick620]

[sick620]

[sick620]

[sick620]

Has anybody ever painted cloth seats black with fabric paint? Results?

[Lockleaf]

Painting fabric it's incredibly difficult to get smooth application. Paint can't flow out on fabric Like it does on a hard surface, so tiger striping is common. It also makes the fabric stiff and abrasive for a while until It breaks down.

 

I don't understand why you didn't reindex. No matter how good you think the ride is right now, It will be better after re indexing. Right now you have lowered It by just detensioning the springs.

 

Welcome to ratsun. Looking forward to the two builds.

[sebpv]

People brush the fabric after it dried to smoothen it. And it reduces the risk of staining on clothes.

[datsunaholic]

Backing off the adjuster doesn't detension the torsion rods.  They still have all the spring they had before.  It just repositions the rear arms.  Reindexing DOES change the spring rate (slightly) by changing the amount of leverage each end arm has against the other.  But not enough to notice. 

 

 

But I'm with Mike on the removal of leaves.  You just made it softer without actually lowering it very much, the blocks alone should do the trick.  But you need angle blocks.  Removing leaves makes it much easier to bend/twist the remaining main one and ruining the alignment of the rear axle, plus the read gets so soft you'll always hit the frame..  De-arching is better, or you can find a spring pack from a 720 4X4 that already has less arch.

[sick620]

Okay so I'm with you guys on the leafs I'm disliking the ride I have with the removed leaf. Does anyone have a picture of a 4x4 leafed 620 on 3 inch blocks to compare ride hight with what I have now?

[Draker]

How dare you change your user name. Cool trucks though.

[wayno]

You get a one and a half drop with the 4X4 leafs and the ride is firmer compared to stock 720 springs/leafs, so with 3 inch blocks and the 4X4 leafs you will get 4 inch plus drop maybe.

It all depends on how close your 79 620 leafs are compared to the standard 720 leafs. 

What is you plan for the carrier bearing cross member?

Do the torsion bar adjusters hang below the frame now?

It all depends on what type of Datsun/Nissan parts availability you have(your location), there are a lot of tricks available to you for lowering your truck, most of them are dependent on what tools you have, and how much you have to spend, ghetto mods are ghetto mods, they look cool, but are not really daily driver friendly.

[flatcat19]

Is that SICK620 posting all of this? Just a change of username?

[datzenmike]

[sick620]

Okay since you bring up 4x4 leafs. If I go grab me a set from the jy, will they just bolt on to my 620 shackles with stock bushings? Will I need to replace my bushings at that time as well? If my bushings are OK can l run them for a bit?

[datzenmike]

520/521/620/720 leaf spring are all the same length 1,200mm or 47.28" long. They will fit. Don't know about the bushings... probably.

[sick620]

Cool Mike well I can see and understand your theory on firm being better while low, and more springrate being optimal. So I'm definitely going to figure something out in back.(probably 4x4 leaves). I've had lots of 620s lowered with just leaves pulled. But this one is riding like shit, and I think that's mostly just age and a need for quality now.

[sick620]

Update: posted more pictures including some of the single cab.

[sick620]

Does anyone have a kc flat glass back window for sale or trade? I have an extra single cab one I could trade.

[sick620]

The new wheels for the kc 620

Anyone know the brand?

 

[chandlerGTi]

American racing or ultra, look awesome on!

[sick620]

Yeah they are American Racing. Can't wait to test fit. Need something for the black truck now ;)

[sick620]

Update,

 

Projects have been greatly slowed due to a big problem with each truck.

 

The black truck needed a tranny, we spent a good long day swapping in a 4speed we got from the junk yard. Got it in, and too our horror the truck doesn't go into gear while running. Our throw out bearing must not be able to reach the pressure plate. Housing must be too short. We used the housing and throw out bearing that was in old tranny and matched to our engine. I guess we needed the housing that came with tranny?

 

As for the red truck all of a sudden one day my blow by got really bad, started losing power, and now I'm pretty sure she has a blown head gasket. Swapping in a running $200 l20b pulled from a friend's ka swapped truck. I'll rebuild the l20b that was in it in the mean time.

 

On a side note, when I blew the headgasket I decided I need another car to depend on when the 620 is down. So I got me this 77 toyota corona rt105 with new paint, enkies,new Weber, 20r, and new windshield. It needs interior work, front lowered a bit, alignment, valve stem seals. Runs good.