nj0z1200ute - 1200 ute USA build

[Mattndew76]

Or have the models modified to have bosses with threaded holes. So when they are printed the threads are already available.

[datsunfreak]

Epoxy some bolts to the back a use a large washer and wing nut to capture the edge of the opening. 

 

Or have the models modified to have bosses with threaded holes. So when they are printed the threads are already available.

 

 

FWIW, the factory one has bolts cast into it, inline with the radio shaft holes, then two huge washers that hold it on. 

 

I like the idea of either making it with threaded holes, or just two big bosses on the back that you could drill and epoxy studs into. 

[njoz1200ute]

All great ideas but if someone cuts out the dash fascia, there is nothing to bolt into.

 

I think people in that scenario might need to glue a metal strap to the back of the dash fascia to bolt into, or glue on to.

[datsunfreak]

All great ideas but if someone cuts out the dash fascia, there is nothing to bolt into.

 

I was using a long piece of strap that along with the cover sort of "sandwiches" the dash. 

[njoz1200ute]

Anyone see anything wrong with the first picture? No, it's not the deadly sling system that I rigged. If anyone has been following this build they may have noticed that the fuel tank door was removed. I'm not sure what the previous owner was trying to do, I mean don't get me wrong I love the shaved look but where the heck am I going to fill my fuel tank? I've been coming up with some ideas. My first thought was to run the fuel tank neck and filler assembly on the inside face of the sidewall of the tray and recess it into one of the access panels. Alternatively I have been thinking about a flush mounted filler that sits flush with the bed floor. What do you guys all think? I've seen them installed on hot rods and I might be able to drill a hole in the bed and in the tank so that I can fit one of these job-ei-doos to them.













Pop top

^^^^ this one is quite expensive though

[datsunfreak]

Pop top

 

^^^^ this one is quite expensive though

 

All the cool stuff is...    ^_^

 

On my buddy's truck he cut a 4"x4" square out of the floor, then bolted a hinge to it, so the piece he cut out became a door. Then mounted a fuel cell under the floor with its cap lined up with the door. 

[datsunfreak]

Door...

 

 

 

Cell...

 

[Lunatik]

Can you tell me where you found information about the filler neck in the middle. I am in need of one for my 410 Datsun.

 

Thanks

 

 

Anyone see anything wrong with the first picture? No, it's not the deadly sling system that I rigged. If anyone has been following this build they may have noticed that the fuel tank door was removed. I'm not sure what the previous owner was trying to do, I mean don't get me wrong I love the shaved look but where the heck am I going to fill my fuel tank? I've been coming up with some ideas. My first thought was to run the fuel tank neck and filler assembly on the inside face of the sidewall of the tray and recess it into one of the access panels. Alternatively I have been thinking about a flush mounted filler that sits flush with the bed floor. What do you guys all think? I've seen them installed on hot rods and I might be able to drill a hole in the bed and in the tank so that I can fit one of these job-ei-doos to them.













Pop top

^^^^ this one is quite expensive though

[njoz1200ute]

Not sure if I should go sidewall on the inner part of the tray........or bed floor....... :confused:

[njoz1200ute]

Got some more work done today.

The back of the gauge cluster was riddled with overspray, it is tough stuff seems like 2k paint. Very hard to get off. I spent a good hour or two rubbing the circuits with a pencil eraser to try and clean them up. Not sure if I will use the cluster, might swap for a spare that is cleaner when it arrives in the mail along with more of my spare parts from Australia.

Got my clutch lever dust cover in the mail today too.

Also sanded and put the final coats on the dash pad. Very happy with the results, you can hardly tell the crack was even there.

Pictures.

 

 

[njoz1200ute]

Bought some new LED's for the dash lights, T4 and T10. I went with a light with a frosted cover for the T10's. The seller on eBay has 100's of types.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/3c-made-in-ch ... ksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

Some comparo photos

[ang94541]

Here are some more fuel fill ideas.

My concern with the boat fill caps is that they have a lot of turns to remove.

 

 

http://www.batinc.net/aero.htm

 

http://www.batinc.net/aston.htm

 

[Mattndew76]

I want to do a le mans cap. 

[njoz1200ute]

Last weekend I decided to make a tachometer face out of some acrylic sheet that I bought from Home Depot for $5. I was skeptical that this would work but in the end it turned out great. I drew the tacho face on the computer on CAD and printed a 1:1 scale copy. Then I spray glued the piece of paper and stuck it to the acrylic sheet. The sheet comes with a protective coating on both sides so it was safe to glue it down. I used a drill and drilled the 3 mounting holes for the screws. Then I used a Dremel tool and a cutting wheel and slowly chopped away at the acrylic sheet. I would probably recommend a band saw or a router if anyone else is attempting this. Then I sanded the edges with 220 grit paper. Test fit. Peeled the protective coatings and then screwed the tacho face on. Very happy with the results.

If anyone would like a PDF file of the template just send me a PM and I will be happy to send it to you, just be sure to print it at 100% scale and on Letter size paper. 

Also finished my LED wedge sockets. I lastly cleaned the back of the gauge cluster with rubbing alcohol to get rid of all the overspray and gunk that was making it dirty. It looks great now.

Nearly finished with my dash assembly.

 

[njoz1200ute]

I am in the final stages of getting my dashboard assembly ready for installation.

Gauges installed, switches installed, fascia installed, heater controls installed, new glove box.

[njoz1200ute]

I am scratching my head though because my wiring harness does not fully match the wiring diagram in the Service Manual

[njoz1200ute]

Cross posted from 1200.com

 

I am in the final stages of getting my dashboard assembly ready for installation.

Gauges installed, switches installed, fascia installed, heater controls installed, new glove box.

I just have a few wiring questions however, since I found some discrepancies between my dash wiring harness and the diagram I am using from the B120 Chassis and Body Service Manual.









Can anyone confirm that the room lamp harness is a RL (red/blue) wire and not just blue as the wiring diagram shows [no. 7]?






I cannot find the G wire that goes to the "flasher unit" [no. 14]. I have a red wire that connects to a green wire. Is that the wire to the "flasher unit"?






This connector with YR wires and a bulb is not in the wiring diagram. What does this go to?




Am I missing the R and G wires to the hazard switch? [no. 18] 




My combination meter [no. 20] does not match the diagram. My wires seem to go the other direction to the diagram. And there is an additional YR wire.






Did I install the correct wires to the Speed Switch Amplifier (SSA) [no. 22]? Red wire from top of gauges to black wire on the SSA?




Also the G wire from SSA to GY wire on harness?




Also where the hell are my wires to the tachometer? The two BW wires connect to what?




Which LW wire goes to the "heater control switch" the short one or long one [no. 23 & 26] ? Also why is there two wires to the "heater control switch" (the LW and B wires) when there is only one connection to the "heater control switch"? I connected the B to B and I hope this is right.






What in the hell is the "cooler" [no. 25]? and where the hell does the BW wire to the "cooler" connect to.




I have this extra connector piece near the BW wire to the "cooler" that I have no idea what it goes to. It is not in the wiring diagram.




Is the long LW wire to the radio [no. 26]?

 

 

 

 

 

The book looks like the 1978 export manual.
This one? And what year is your ute & wiring harness?

 

 

 

 

Correct. My ute is 1980 model

 

 

 

24013-G2170

Attach file:


  dash.jpg (160.55 KB)

 

 

The 'cooler' was an option extra, availiable only on the limited edition "Fonzarelli" model - US import only 

HEYYYYYYY

 

 

 

 

 

I checked with Fonzarelli, just got a text back.

Quote:

What in the hell is the "cooler" [no. 25]?

He says "cooler" means Aircon, but he's never seen it installed , mmm.

 

 

 

[njoz1200ute]

 

 

 

The diagram is for 1978 and your ute is 1980. Several changes may have taken place.

24013-G1270 is Instrument Panel harness for export models, exact year range unknown.

 

 

 

Quote:

Also where the hell are my wires to the tachometer?

That is an older tachometer. The one for newer models doesn't have the current loop wires, but a single signal wire, like a typical aftermarket tachometer.

And besides, 1200 utes didn't have a factory tachometer option. Sedan/coupe will have a place to plug in that old tachometer. 

See Tachometer Wiring for information on using older 1200 tacho in newer 1200 ute.

 

Alright much appreciated guys. That solves the mystery about the tachometer and the "cooler". 

What about the rest though? Can you guys confirm if the LW short wire or the LW long wire goes to the heater? - that seems like a simple one that you guys might know. Does the black wire or the LW connect to the heater control switch and where does the other of the two wires go to?

Also is the Speed switch amplifier connected correctly? Should I even have it installed since I am not using the factory emissions components or factory carburetor?

Is the room lamp connection the LR wire I found in my harness?

Where is my wires for my hazard unit? 

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH I am going to explode.

I just don't want to turn the key on my ute for the first time and have it burst into flames and burn to the ground.

 

 

 

As long as you have the Fusible Link system intact it should not catch fire.

 

 

[njoz1200ute]

Lots of work done this month so far. Got to air out the ute for the first time in a while. It hasn't seen daylight for at least over a year.

Installed the Weber 32/36 carburetor with the adapter plate on the manifold. I was finally able to get some decent studs from the local NAPA to put onto the adapter plate. The existing gasket from the old Hitachi carb was in poor shape. It was worn and had high and low groove marks in it so I decided instead of reusing it I coated the manifold base with high temp Permatex sealant and fit the adapter on top. The nut for the carb base closest to the driver's seat was such A PAIN to tighten. I had to dissamble the rocker cover to get access to the nut and even then it was difficult. I did not want to attempt to take the automatic electric choke off the carb (this was the part in the way) as I did not know how easy or difficult it was to put back on the carb.

Noted that my current engine head is a H75.

I am not sure how to run the fuel line to the carb. It seems to be on the wrong side of the carb. (maybe more suited for LHD model?)

Also the vacuum line from the distributor will NOT go on the damn carb not matter how hard I try. Any tricks here?

Installed the accelerator pedal and cable. The cable is very slack at the moment. I will need a way to tighten the cable. Hopefully the chrome rocker cover (see a few pages back) with the stop tab welded on will help to take up the slack in the cable.

I found the grooved round connector at the driver's side end for the accelerator cable very difficult to tighten. I used a pair of pliers to get it as good as I could but it still has a little bit of slack at that end.

Painted my poo brown heater cover a trick silver/black combo. Never seen anyone attempt this before and I think it came out awesome and will match my interior theme.

Also found a few "scotch" tabs or whatever they are called tapped into the indicator stalk wiring and I had to remove those and repair the wiring. Hoping it functions okay still.

Also received my shift lever rubber boot from Australia. Not sure if i mentioned before.

[njoz1200ute]

Heater cover installed.

I also prepared my Nitrous bottle for installation. Then installed said Nitrous bottle. I had to drill two small holes in the firewall for installation. Not sure if it is the original location or not and maybe the previous owner welded the holes back in place before I came along? I have also seen them installed on the driver's strut tower but I don't like that location and my wiring harness seemed to like above the rocker cover better.

I received in the mail from Courtesy parts and Nissan parts warehouse new hazard flasher unit and turn signal flasher unit. I decided to install the hazard to the left of the steering wheel and the turn signal flasher to the right of the steering wheel. Also had to drill some holes here as well for installation.

Received a brand new speedometer cable from some folks in Indiana on eBay. I had to cut the firewall grommet to get the grommet around the brass screw thingy that connects to the dash. Might have to go back and glue the grommet back in place. I did not install the other end on the transmission yet because I was too lazy to get underneath the car today.

Took the steering wheel off to install the steering lock. I hope I positioned it in the right place? For some reason it will only engage by turning the steering wheel to the right. Is this correct? I was able to fake turn the key in the ignition today which gave me some excitement. 

I also noticed that there are four screws on the steering lock. Only two of them are phillips head and the other two look like a security screw or something? How do I tighten the other two??

While installing the indicator stalk I noticed a shotty-ass steering bush on the steering column. It looks like someone sliced some provolone cheese up into thin pieces and stuffed it all in there.

I will definitely need help finding a replacement or maybe someone here might be kind enough to mill one for me? :) :)

Also had a lot of trouble installing my steering cover trim. It needs some work. Maybe I am not routing the cabling in the correct position because it looks terrible. 

[Morrisun]

Steering Column bushing part# 48910-H1021, don't know if Nissan still sells these. MADDAT also sells this part.

[datsunfreak]

I am not sure how to run the fuel line to the carb. It seems to be on the wrong side of the carb. (maybe more suited for LHD model?)

 

You just unscrew the pipe from the right side of the carb, unscrew the cap from the left side, and swap them out.   ;)

 

It'll feed perfectly fine from either side.  :thumbup:

[hobospyder]

i looped the fuel line around to where your inlet is on my weber because i didn't like how the hard line had to be bent to get it to attach to the other side. i tried swapping the inlet like datsun freak suggested but it was just too tight that way. i haven't seen many with it on the opposite side but i don't really pay that much attention either

[datsunfreak]

i looped the fuel line around to where your inlet is on my weber because i didn't like how the hard line had to be bent to get it to attach to the other side. i tried swapping the inlet like datsun freak suggested but it was just too tight that way. i haven't seen many with it on the opposite side but i don't really pay that much attention either

 

Could always shorten the metal fuel line? Done that a few times too...

[hobospyder]

Could always shorten the metal fuel line? Done that a few times too...

working just fine how she sits and i'd have to get a flare tool, why fix what ain't broke?