njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 These puppies arrived in the mail today. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 She looks good jeffro Looking great keep up the hard work :) Love the wheels :) Thanks for the encouragement guys! Should arrive from Australia to my house in the states this week!!! Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Ice Ice baby. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 A crappy jack and a piece of steel rebar as a jack handle and back in business. Word up redneck ya'll.... trick or treat smell my feet. Congrats jeffy. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Does anyone know how to replace LCA bushings? I did all but them normally take the arm out, burn the bush out and carefully cut through the metal sleeve to get it out. Probably best to take the arms out and take them to a mechanic Thanks Harry. Of course I installed everything to the tee. Now I have to take it all apart to get the LCA's out. So is life. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I decided to hold off on the LCA's. I heard a clank when I took my wheel's off and noticed that the springs aren't even touching the top spring perch when I have the car lifted on the jack. They definitely need to be replaced. I will probably get a set of King Springs rather than attempt to modify my struts to suit something else like coilovers. I just don't have the knowledge and the ability to cut and weld. So the front suspension is on hold until I get some parts. Then I can put some springs in and replace the LCA bushings at the same time. Might be bringing the struts and the LCA's to a mechanic to have the springs put in and the bushings re-pressed.In the mean time what the hell do I do next? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Some updates:Aussies have it easy working in warm temp's. Try working on your ute in -7 degrees Celcius.Re-taping the wiring harness. Stripped off old peeling tape and cleaned with alcohol. Retaped with 3M vinyl electrical tape. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 decided to install a NITROUS OXIDE KIT !!!!! Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Dis-assembled the heater to clean the parts and look for any potential problems. Found that a few parts were broken so I had to come up with some fixes. 33 years of dust and grime to clean off. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Fully assembled with new Heater control valve and new heater hose. I hope I put the heater together properly. I won't know if it works okay until the ute is all wired up. Fingers crossed...and also hoping the heater core does not leak. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Hoping to get most of the wiring finished new years and the weekend but they are calling for 6 inches of snow. Working in winter in a garage is tough. I can't believe mechanics here do it for a living. My kerosone heater does not help much.Once wiring is in i might loosely fit the old radiator and use a coffee can full of gas for a test run on the a14??? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Although running the engine with no prop shaft probably a bad idea Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Just making note of parts I need.center console, the clip that connects wiper linkage to wiper motor, ute lower engine harness ( to starter motor, reverse switch etc...) , front circular D badge, wiring to room lamp, glove box and lid, tachometer, ute tray side panels and tailgate panels, ute fuel sender, king springs, rear ute shock absorbers, spare heater core, parts for twin sidedraft setup (minus carbs) Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Still wondering if i should scrap my front bare struts and find a replacement already with brakes on them ready to go?Also wondering if i should scrap the diff for the same reason. I would like to confirm somehow if it is the coupe diff and not the proper ute diff.Any suggestions from my fellow US members for replacement options?Also how do you indentify a h145 vs h165 or h150? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Quote: datsunbeginner wrote:Still wondering if i should scrap my front bare struts and find a replacement already with brakes on them ready to go? Perhaps the 280zx brake upgrade is an option since I've got just bare struts?http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... title=280ZX_Brake_UpgradeBut what about the diff........hmmm? Why did Nissan not just stamp H145,165 etc.. directly on the diff? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 No diff manufacturer casts in an ID. Coupe diff is easy to ID - it has a 36x50 mm flange. Larger diffs have 45 x 54 mm flange. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Quote: ddgonzal wrote:No diff manufacturer casts in an ID.Coupe diff is easy to ID - it has a 36x50 mm flange. Larger diffs have 45 x 54 mm flange. Thanks DD will measure and report back. But as memory recalls my other B120 had a circular flange??? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Flange is circular, bolt pattern is not. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 So measure distance between bolt holes on the flange? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Bolts on diff carrier, many of which are missing.Approx. 45mm between bolt holes on flange. Is this a H150? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I wish it was known. To my knowledge no one has ever measured it and reported the diff bolt measurements. But the flange bolts are known. H145 Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Ice.......Ice......Baby. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Any more ice and you may be suspected as a dealer Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Got this rare gem off someone in Portugal.I just need another one to match. Not sure if this one is driver's side or passenger's side.Ice ice baby Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Until I can afford the $300 some odd to replace my crusty washer bag and broken pump with a genuine Nissan one (oh and mik I couldn't find that replacement pump in Supercheap auto like you said)I bought the el cheapo version. Holds water so it passed the first test. Quote Link to comment
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