nj0z1200ute - 1200 ute USA build

[njoz1200ute]

I also have a new reverse lamp switch, top radiator and bottom radiator mounts from an Altima coming in the mail soon.

[njoz1200ute]

I'm in the middle of changing my LCA bushings.

 

What i don't understand is that the literature says to torque the bolts and nuts on the steering linkage to specification when the car is under ride height/load.

 

Stupid question, How do you do this when the car is on the ground?

[datsunfreak]

What i don't understand is that the literature says to torque the bolts and nuts on the steering linkage to specification when the car is under ride height/load.

 

Stupid question, How do you do this when the car is on the ground?

 

That's when you do it.   ;)

 

Almost all of the suspension bolts should be tightened with the suspension loaded up, or the car sitting on the ground.

 

Common mistake people make is tightening the LCA bolts with the suspension in droop. This is bad. 

[njoz1200ute]

Understood.

 

But with a lowered car I need to borrow Antman to get underneath and tighten up all the suspension for me.

 

Don't have ramps :(

[datsunfreak]

Understood.

 

But with a lowered car I need to borrow Antman to get underneath and tighten up all the suspension for me.

 

Don't have ramps 

 

 

They only cost about $30 at your local Harbor Freight. Go get some.

 

Or just get some of these for $3 at the hardware store...    :rofl:

 

[datsunfreak]

What I use at home...

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/solid-steel-auto-ramp-set-68365.html

 

What I use at the shop...

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/magnum-16000-auto-ramp-set-with-built-in-safety-chock-67722.html

[njoz1200ute]

Are these what the cool kids use for lowering blocks?   :rofl:

 

I suppose you are right, $30 investment on a $5000 plus build.  

 

Add another $75 for a torque wrench.

[datsunfreak]

I suppose you are right, $30 investment on a $5000 plus build.  

 

Can also use them for future maintenance as well. ;)

 

Tools are always a good investment.  :thumbup:

[njoz1200ute]

Today i made a lot of progress. Pictures to come.

 

Oil and filter changed.

 

Battery relocation kit installed. I made a body earth wire to the bracket that holds the battery in place. (See previous photos). I ran the positive cable from the battery looping around the back of the cabin. Drilled a 3/4inch hole behind the drivers seat on the vertical face of the cabin. Removed drivers seat first. Installed a grommet and ran the battery cable across the cabin floor to the right side of the gas pedal. I routed the cable up the firewall and ran it through the hole where the latch release cable goes. I don't need it since i am using hood pins down the road. Put another grommet in.

 

Purchased a positive distribution post 3/8 inch stud and installed that on the drivers strut tower facing the fire wall. Hooked the battery to the post. With excess cable I made a separate positive cable to the starter motor from the distribution post.

 

Made a body to engine earth cable. Bolted that to the frame where the factory diagrams show it. (There was a plastic rivet type cap concealing this)attached the other end to the engine near the oil filter like the tech wiki shows.

 

Made a jump wire from the distribution post to the positive side of the coil. Ran the negative side to the distributor.

 

Put some gasoline in the Weber 32/36 :)

 

With a fire extinguisher present I gave power to the battery. Engine cranked the first time but did not fire. Second and third time there over the stater turned on but did not engage.

 

After a few blows with a wood block and a hammer to the starter I got it to engage again. Cranked again but no fire.

 

Pulled a spark plug and tried to see if there was spark but there is none.

 

So close to starting it! I don't know if its a bad dizzy cap or the coil is not working with the jump wire. The cap is very corroded so i am going to get a new one this week and try again.

[njoz1200ute]

Can also use them for future maintenance as well. ;)

 

Tools are always a good investment.  :thumbup:

Tell my wife that when fedex shows up :)

[njoz1200ute]

Tell my wife that when fedex shows up :)

Noticed the dizzy cap screws on. Does not clip on. Its not an A series dizzy. According to the tech wiki its an E series dizzy. D4R85.

 

So that makes finding a dizzy cap a headache. :/

[datsunfreak]

According to the tech wiki its an E series dizzy. D4R85.

 

So that makes finding a dizzy cap a headache. :/

 

Likely from an 84-85ish Sentra, at least that's where I'd start. 

[njoz1200ute]

Thanks DF.  Went to NAPA and had them search for 84 Sentra.   They have a cap in TX and a rotor in OR and want $8 ea. to ship them to NJ.

 

Instead I went with Rockauto.    :thumbup:

[njoz1200ute]

Like Forrest Gump, my engine is now RUN-NING. !!!

[datsunfreak]

Like Forrest Gump, my engine is now RUN-NING. !!!

 

So the Sentra cap worked?

[njoz1200ute]

So the Sentra cap worked?

Yessir. Cap and rotor from a 1985 sentra. I wired up the distributor wrong and thought the coil was bad so I also bought a new coil. I was goingto get a stock sentra coil, but Julio from advanced auto parts talked me into an Accel Super stock coil.

 

The old coil was fine, problem was I did not have both the + and - wired up from the distributor to the coil. Only - side. Which is correct for a points distributor but not an electronic distributor.

 

Fired first try after fixed wiring....engine has been sitting 4 plus years.

 

Datsun reliability!

[njoz1200ute]

Can also use them for future maintenance as well. ;)

 

Tools are always a good investment.  :thumbup:

I bought a torque "lug" wrench from JEGS, it goes up to 150 ft/lbs.

 

Back to the issue of torque under load, I am assuming ball joints are excluded?

 

I'd like to know what to torque under load and what can be torqued while on the stands. Bell housing bolts maybe? Diff carrier bolts? Eager to use this new tool, never owned one before.

 

Thanks in advance.

[datsunfreak]

Back to the issue of torque under load, I am assuming ball joints are excluded?

 

I'd like to know what to torque under load and what can be torqued while on the stands. 

 

Only thing that really needs to be done under load is the lower control arm bolts. Everything else is fine on jackstands. 

[njoz1200ute]

Picture update. One of two LCA bushings removed and replaced.

Rest of photos are for the latest work on the ute over the past few weekends. Battery relocation and wiring, Coil install, Chrome valve cover installed, Oil and filter change, Spark plugs, Rotor and Cap. Engine started and ran.
LCA removed, paint grinded off. Bushing removed






I chiselled off one end of the bushing and used these tools to pound it out on a vice.



Bushing comparo old vs new



Baggie with grease enclosed



One side finished






New rotor and cap from a 1985 USDM Sentra



Accel Super Stock COil



Updated image bay



Pos jump block installed

[njoz1200ute]

It may not look like much but I installed the shifter with new bushings, pin, and rubber boot.

Buyer beware. The bushing kit off eBay DOES NOT fit. I had to file down the bushings by hand and after 2 hours it finally came together.

[njoz1200ute]

Having trouble with my radius rod bracket. I swapped the radius rod bushings. When I took the passenger side out I noticed that the washer on the front side of the bracket was a bit mangled. I decided to try and take it off. I did not realize but I think the washer is welded to the bracket. I should have left it be. Going to have to cut the washer out and replace it. No welder so I might epoxy the new one in. Hopefully I do not damage the bracket taking the old washer out.

[Eagle_Adam]

15 pages and a few hours later and I'm all caught up!!!

 

Sweet build so far!!

[njoz1200ute]

15 pages and a few hours later and I'm all caught up!!!

 

Sweet build so far!!

 

Thanks Eagle!!

[njoz1200ute]

After a lot of trouble on eBay my new reverse light switch arrived. I had to redo the wire terminals on the lower engine harness to accept the new switch. The switch installed pretty easilly. 

While I was there I decided to remove the transmission mount. I have had this 60a 5 speed since my first purchase on the General Lee back in 2010/2011. I have never removed the mount for it. 

It appeared to be pretty worn, the rubber holding the actual mount is cracked and there is alot of movement compared to the stock transmission mount that came with my new ute as a spare part.

Photos comparing the two below.

To mount the transmission I think I am going to ditch the factory mount altogether and use these BMW mounts that were suggested by datsunfreak. Plan is to bolt 2 of these onto where the factory mount attaches to the transmission and then run a flat steel bar across the bottom of the cabin that bolts up and in.

 

 

[njoz1200ute]

Build still happening. I've taken a break alittle to work on the new coupe.

 

On vanilla ice, i recently installed the washer bag and i fished new wires for the room lamp to new door switches.

 

The real next challenge is making a custom mount for the transmission.