nj0z1200ute - 1200 ute USA build

[TENDRIL]

turbo;  fix me

 

 

Dual carbs; drive me

[datsunfreak]

What are you inferring?

 

This. 

 

turbo;  fix me

 

 

Dual carbs; drive me

 

^_^

[njoz1200ute]

2 votes carbs, 0 votes turbo.

 

I'm surprised. I know nothing about tuning turbos. I thought since there is an ecu involved it would be easier to tune than dual carbs.

[TENDRIL]

that just solidified my vote for carbs. they are more forgiving.  B)

 

if you dont know turbos i would stay away for now. 

[datsunfreak]

I only know the anecdotal evidence of "everyone I know with a turbocharged (insert favorite old car here) spends a lot of time working on it, and not much time driving it". 

 

Whereas carbs, tune it once and drive the shit out of it.   B)

[datsunfreak]

However, if you are using an engine that is turbocharged from the factory, and you keep it mostly stock (key word), it should be fairly trouble free.

 

It will never be easier/cheaper to install than carbs. Easier to "tune", maybe.

 

But again, if it's a (mostly) stock CA/SR, it will not require any "tuning". But unless you install all new sensors and probably a new wiring harness when you swap it in, it will break down occasionally.

 

Carbs have never left me stranded on the side of the road. EFI has. 

[njoz1200ute]

Project build update. Finally have a new location for the ute to work on it. With the 70 degree weather this past weekend I had no excuse to go and work on it.

I found some heater control knobs from www.new-datsun-parts.com They were pretty affordable.

I also found a new Steering column bushing from Bprojects Japan and had it delivered. I decided to tackle the steering bush install. So I removed the steering wheel, cover, and turn signal unit that I had installed for no reason whatsoever

This is what I was working with:

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[njoz1200ute]

I remember doing this a long time ago on the General. I remember banging on the bushing with a hammer and it pretty much came right out. 

I had forgotten that I had already done this and first approached removing the bushing by using two flat screwdrivers and trying to wrench it off with both of those...no luck. Tried using vice grips on the whole sleeve of the bushing...no luck. Tried two pairs of vice grips each on one "tongue" of the old sleeve...no luck. Spent 2 hours banging on the old sleeve with several different types of sharp objects...no luck. I began to pry the metal up around the circumference of the old sleeve and I noticed a maroon colored residue there. Could this perhaps be some old loc-tite? I think probably. More banging with a hammer, no luck. Than I decided to take a propane blow torch to the damn sleeve and while hot, banging it more with a hammer and screwdriver....badddabing....it came loose! 

Good thing the saturation of WD-40 did not ignite inside the steering column.

Photo time.

New bushing versus old bushing




New pair of snap ring pliers to do the job



Snap ring off and finally got the bushing out






filed down the sharp edges



blew out the inside of the column with some compressed air. Also attempted to clean the old threads and gunk inside with some paint thinner and q tips



Added some grease to the outside and inside of the new bushing



Fitting the new bushing. Slight taps with hammer and screwdriver






Finished installed bushing!












Indicator stalk in



Trying to figure out how these parts go together






No idea how to hook up the horn. Instructions are very vague.

There is 2 white wires, 1 black wire inside the wheel, 2 tabs for hooking up wires on the horn button, one in the center and one off center, and also there is a brass ring fitting.

Further research on the bushing and from a cross post on the main forum, I have not installed a washer between the new bushing and snap ring but there should be one there. There wasn't one installed. Going to search for it. I don't think it will fit though its very tight between the snap ring groove and the new bushing which won't tighten any further.

[njoz1200ute]

So one week before xmas my refrigerator dies. Yay me. While i was out shopping at Lowes i picked up a 5 foot folding table to work on. 

Turned out to be very handy for dumping out the unlabeled Ziploc bags of nuts,bolts, shims, washers, bushings and every other part from the ute that i have no idea where it goes.

Among the pile i found the needle in the hay stack. What appeared to be the Thrust Washer. The spacer that goes between the steering bushing and the snap ring.

I took off the indicator stalk and steering wheel to get back to the bushing. Took off the snap ring. At first i didn't think the washer was going to fit. It did not go over the taper. I had to bang it down with a hammer onto the bushing. 

When doing so i noticed the snap ring groove had moved down into the bushing. I found this odd and could only figure that the steering shaft sank a little. I put the nut on the steering end where the splines are and tapped the shaft back out a ways to expose the snap ring groove a little. So it looks like the shaft is travelling in and out a little. 

Is this normal?

[njoz1200ute]

 

 

Quote:

it looks like the shaft is travelling in and out a little. 

 

Is this normal?

Yes, very normal. The steering gearbox should be adjusted to spec (just be careful not to overtighten it -- the play can all be taken up but that will damage the gearbox). See Steering Gearbox Adjustment. Then the column bush should be adjusted. Turn it out to take up all slack out of the shaft, then back off to 0.5 mm play.

 

[njoz1200ute]

 

Here's the bit about adjusting the bush. It says to "adjust the clearance to less than 1.0 mm"

Attach file:

 

 

  ST-13.JPG (146.17 KB)

 

[njoz1200ute]

Thanks for the article on the Wiki. I read about the Steering gearbox adjustment. Today I worked a little more on the ute. When I went to go untighten the lock nut with the wrench I noticed it was totally loose! I was expecting the adjuster to be the same but it wasn't very loose. All it took was about 1/8 turn to take up the slack. I was sure not to put too much pressure on it. Then I took the wrench and tightened back up the lock nut.

Here is the picture before (loose) and after (tight) You can notice a slight adjustment.

[njoz1200ute]

Decided today also to grease the joints in the Steering Linkage.

Although I installed all brand new tie rods, draglink, idler arm, ball joints a few years ago in the build.......I never greased them. I didn't know I had to. I was reading someone else's project build recently and saw them do it. The ute hasn't driven since I have had it, only towed a few times on a flat truck and moved around pushed a few times in the garage.

I have a grease gun and attempted to do this today. I was able to find grease nipples for the inner and outer tie rods. As well as the drag link. However I was not able to find a grease nipple on the ball joints. How do you grease them? 

Also looks like one of the tie rods has a tiny puncture in the rubber casing? Does this mean it is has gone bad and should be replaced?

Does the idler arm need to be greased too?

Ball joint below



Ball joint above



Possible puncture in the tie rod casing?

 

 

[datsunfreak]

I was able to find grease nipples for the inner and outer tie rods. As well as the drag link. However I was not able to find a grease nipple on the ball joints. How do you grease them?

 

You don't.   B)

 

Unless you want to drill and tap them for zerk fittings. Some brands have them, some don't. I tend to avoid the brands that don't have them, but they work just as well as the others. Just not as much longevity. 

 

 

Possible puncture in the tie rod casing?

 

No, it's supposed to be like that. It keeps you from overgreasing it and rupturing the boot. Almost all brands have a tiny little hole in the side just like that. 

[njoz1200ute]

Little more work done last night.

Maddat brace fitted and allen head bolts tightened.

Was surprised to see the 1/4" to 3/8" gap between the brace and body panel disappear when tightened fully.

Fourth picture is some damage I discovered on the right front frame where the body was sitting on the Sway Bar. I really need to replace those dodgy springs and bring the front end up a little so it is not rubbing on the Sway Bar. 

Bought an old box of snap rings off eBay for $4 and with my new handy snap ring pliers I was able to finally fix the wiper arm linkage.

Lastly, assembled the new aftermarket brake master cylinder and attached to brake pedal.

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[njoz1200ute]

You don't.   B)

 

Unless you want to drill and tap them for zerk fittings. Some brands have them, some don't. I tend to avoid the brands that don't have them, but they work just as well as the others. Just not as much longevity. 

 

 

No, it's supposed to be like that. It keeps you from overgreasing it and rupturing the boot. Almost all brands have a tiny little hole in the side just like that. 

 

Thanks for the insight!

[njoz1200ute]

Okay did some research on the struts. Trying to plan for what to do with my front brakes.

The tube is 45mm wide.
The number on the strut is: 54303 H7405 AMPCO

A search on the web tells me they are 120y struts. Is this correct?

I was assuming 1200 coupe struts with disc brakes. I was beginning to research replacement parts but now I am in a bit of a roadblock. The calipers that came with the car look really poor and I have no idea if they are any good. I was just going to assume I need new calipers and hardware for the brakes. Whats your guys opinion here?

Left side strut



Measurement



Brake rotor about 8.5" wide



Right side strut



Measurement



Brake rotor about 8.5" wide



Strut ID markings



Calipers that came with car - unknown type

 

 

[njoz1200ute]

Also did some measurements on the diff carrier.

Hoping to identify the diff for once and for all.

Spacing of holes on the diff flange is 45mm x 54mm

Photo of diff

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  diff flange.JPG (29.12 KB)

[njoz1200ute]

Okay I believe I adjusted the steering bush following the instructions posted from the Nissan manual.

Took the play out of the steering box by adjusting the locknut/screw (as posted before)

I measured the distance between the column bushing and the thrust washer and it was 2mm

I backed off the column bushing to around 1.0mm to 0.5mm (the thrust washer isn't perfectly flat so it was hard to get a perfect reading)

Replaced the snap ring with a new one

Loosened the thrust washer and snap ring

I put a dimple in the top of the jacket tube where it meets the markings on the column bushing.

Also caulked the other 3 markings on the column bushing with some silicone.

While I was at it, I also caulked the "security" screws on the steering lock that were previously broken off so that they don't rattle around while driving or back out.

Pics in order of assembly:

Old snap ring vs new one

 

[datsunfreak]

 

Okay did some research on the struts. Trying to plan for what to do with my front brakes.

 

The tube is 45mm wide.

The number on the strut is: 54303 H7405 AMPCO

 

A search on the web tells me they are 120y struts. Is this correct?

 

In that era, 1200s and 120Ys would use the same struts/brakes. USDM "120Y"s used bigger struts/brakes, but not in other markets. 

 

 

Whats your guys opinion here?

 

Get some B310 control arms, steering knuckles, outer tie rods, and t/c rods. Put those on, then swap on some 280ZX struts/brakes.   B)

[datsunfreak]

Oh, and that diameter strut tube would be either 1200 or (non-USDM) 120Y. Everything else uses a strut with a tube diameter of around 53mm. 

[datsunfreak]

 

Also did some measurements on the diff carrier.

 

Hoping to identify the diff for once and for all.

 

Any reason you have to think it's not a B120 diff? 

[njoz1200ute]

Any reason you have to think it's not a B120 diff?

 

Yea the previous owner had alot of coupe parts he gave me with the shell that i am still slowly discovering are coupe parts. Like the struts. The window felts were from a coupe. So were the leaf springs, and tailshaft.

 

He didn't label anything or give me much history on the car, lots of parts missing, that sort of thing. I have to do detective work to find these things out

[njoz1200ute]

In that era, 1200s and 120Ys would use the same struts/brakes. USDM "120Y"s used bigger struts/brakes, but not in other markets. 

 

 

 

Get some B310 control arms, steering knuckles, outer tie rods, and t/c rods. Put those on, then swap on some 280ZX struts/brakes.   B)

 

 

Whole front steering assembly is brand new

[datsunfreak]

Whole front steering assembly is brand new

 

I'm not really saying change any of that.   B)

 

Just the outer tie rods.  :thumbup:

 

And if you're okay with 14" wheels (or bigger), it's a substantial brake upgrade. And makes finding new parts easier.