njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 For future reference for my A14 rebuild (at some point). I think to get the Vanilla ice up and running I will start with a fresh Weber 32/36 I have in storage and some extractors.Future plans.....GX head (acquired)Twin dellorto DHLA 40s (acquired)Cam of some sortHeading back to the USA very soon. Can't wait to get out the wrenches. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I ran a Delta cam in my A15 for years until I finally threw a rod through the block. The motor finally couldn't handle the 5 lbs of boost and 100 shot of NOS. It was soon time to move on. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 That's cool! What specifications were your camshaft, or rather what would you recommend for street use for my A-14 ? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 That is the cool thing about Delta cams - ask and they'll tell you the specs you want. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Even better. Will do when I get stateside! Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Ive never played with a 32/36 before. Is it easy to check the jets?Quote: Baseline jetting is Carb: 32/36 Main jets: 140/140 Emulsion tubes: F50/F50 Air correction jets: 170/160 Idle jets: 60/50 Pump jet: 50 Needle valve: 2.00 Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Yes, even a little easier than the stock carburetor. Just remove the top and then all the jets can be accessed. Weber DGV Tuning Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 My 32/36 is an electric choke type. I've removed all the screws from the top and loosened the top of the carb but I haven't been able to figure out how to disconnect the electric choke to get the top off to inspect my jets. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 To disconnect the electric choke, unplug the wire from the engine harness. To disconnect the choke from the activation mechanism (either manual, water, or electric), unclip the choke shaft lever from the activation rod. Then the top can be removed. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Far right side of photo Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Thanks DD. I have never ever taken a carburetor apart before. Today was my first time. That damned circle clip on the choke lever was a pain in the beeeehind to take off.From what I can tell I think this Weber should be jetted close to the settings for an A series engine? (Mine is an A14) I could not identify the bigger screw in the middle, there was no markings.Is there any other bits that I should check or I should adjust while I have it open and apart? Any other jets to check?Thanks !! Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Also noticed the things on the right of this image from the tech wiki.......mine is only one-pronged, not two-pronged like the ones in the image. And I think there is only one on my carb, where the center jet is. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 They are the pump nozzles, the come standard with a single like u have on urs but u can get the twin, when u pump the throttle they dump the fuel from ur acc pump so u don't get a hesitation on acceleration Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Looks good, is using the standard baseline jetting. Now you can put it on the engine, start it up, bring to full temperature, then adjust the idle speed and idle a/f mixture. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 All I can say is Clean Carb! Ive never had luck with the double pump jets. I have a set for my carbs but I just got too much fuel when using them. May change with my new setup though. Only difference with my carbs is that I am using 180's mains on the primaries and 190's mains on the secondaries. The rest is factory set. Chokes are removed. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Thanks guys for the help and comments. I think it might be awhile before the gasoline and air get a chance to ignite inside my engine. I have so much work to do I don't even know where to begin, it is actually stressing and anxious to think about. Alot of the build i can still do myself but at some point it will have to go into paint. And also i am going to need a mechanic to build me brakes, fuel lines, fab a transmission mount, and a few other things. Still faced with a dillema where my driveshaft is too long and doesnt mount to my diff anyways, different flange. Also no idea what condition the rear axle assembly is in and whether or not its a H145, 150, 165 or 190. I have my 5 speed 60a gearbox and A14 so if it is a H145 i wouldn't want it to be on there.In the mean time I got this fuse box from Greece. It says 1200 LB110 but seems to look like it will work with the B120. And also found a few NOS oil filters. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Pics. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 B110 & B120 use same fuse box, but there were three revisions. See Fuse Box All B120 came from the factory with H165, even the first ones. But sometimes they get swapped. Anything can happen in 30-40 years. Easy enough to tell. H145 has square-pattern flange. H165 has rectangular pattern flange. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 15 months of sitting in a garage. Finally time to get crackalackin.Anyone suggest where to begin? I think I might start by putting all the wiring in the ute, engine bay through to tailights including the interior/dash and fuse box. The battery location has been moved to under the tray behind the passenger's seat so I think I need to work out a way to get wiring there unless I want to relocate the battery back into the engine bay, not sure here.Maybe also hook up the clutch cable, accel cable to start with. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Definitely take the battery out of the tray. Either back in engine bay, or hidden under tray. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 The battery is under the tray I don't think that's a bad spot at all if u can fit it there. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Yea the previous owner built a little shelf for the battery underneath the tray. How do you go about the wiring? Do people make their own wiring or is there a universal kit? Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Both. DIY. You need lengths of black & red cable. Two terminals. Install a POS jump block in the engine compartment and fit the existing starter cable & Fusible Link to that. All available at any USA auto parts store. See Battery Relocation. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Thanks DD. I think I am going to buy a Battery Relocation kit from Summit when I get the money to purchase. When that happens I might ask you a few more questions on how to wire it correctly. For starters I don't know what you mean by POS jump block. But that can wait for a little while. I am still wiring up the car.Today I tried to install the wiring in the engine bay. I assembled most of it from memory and some of it I had already done. However there is something that is driving me mad. This is the first time in 15 months I have worked on the ute so I can't remember where I placed things and where all the bits and pieces are that I stored. Last time I remember working on the engine bay I had three-dimensional wiring diagrams that helped me locate everything. (I can't read the 2D ones to save my life) I thought that the 3d ones were in my Gregory service manual (the one on the right in the photo) but I can't for the life of me find them in that book and it is driving me crazy. I have a still image in my mind of the diagrams, there was notations for "Australia only" or "USA only" under each of the connections and it was a 3d perspective of the engine bay. I believe there were other diagrams of all the other harness's as well. Does anyone know where I can find these? I must have had another Service Manual but have lost it during the 15 month wait. It will take me forever without these diagrams. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I bought everything I needed from the local Interstate battery store. They carry the jump blocks which is just a Positive terminal that you can bolt to the firewall under the hood. Run your starter cable and accessories from that point. If you want photos I can post some. Quote Link to comment
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