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nj0z1200ute - 1200 ute USA build


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Thanks datsa73, pictures would be appreciated. I might look at a battery place, I know where there is an Interstate Battery store nearby. If you could post pictures of your installation that would be appreciated. I am not good with electricals. 

The diagrams that are making me lose my mind looked exactly like this:
 
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Now that my panic attack is over, I also took off the stock carburetor today to prepare for the Weber 32/36. I found this weird gasket with a sleeve on it. Do I need to reuse this for the installation? If so, what hole does the sleeve go into? 

How do you guys recommend sealing the carb adapter. I was thinking of not using any gasket to the manifold, just sealing it with a rubber compound/wet gasket and using a paper gasket between the adaptor and the carburetor base.

I also plan on removing the stock carburetor linkage to modify the Weber. Going to work on this tomorrow.
 
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16174-H3900 INSULATOR-CARBURETOR

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The primary purpose of this plastic spacer is heat isolation. It keeps the carb from overheating.

 

The plastic spacer is designed to extend the carb bores, so don't cut the center out of it. Newer ones use an extender on the primary (a metal tube goes in the plastic spacer). This extends the bore down close to the floor of the manifold. It makes a huge difference in driveability--for the better.

 

With a Weber you don't need this

* the tube wont extend the larger Weber bore

* Weber gasket is insulating type 5mm thick

 
 
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So the carburetor kit I bought second hand did not come with throttle linkage. Well it did come with this U-shaped bracket that doesn't look to "crash-hot". So instead I decided to disassemble the throttle linkage on stock Hitachi carburetor. The throttle lever bolts straight onto the Weber !! Pretty easy modification. Tested the linkage and both butterflies open full 90 degrees. Pretty happy with this, I can't wait to get the engine started.

Is there anyway to test run my engine safely without a driveshaft? Or is that a no-no?


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There is alot of chatter on Facebook about Weber "genuine" carbs.   Mine is not stamped anywhere with the Weber logo, it only has a round plastic sticker near the fuel inlet with "Weber North America - void if removed"  

 

Does this mean my carburetor is not "genuine" and if so does it really matter?

 

In the long run I plan on installing sidedrafts anyways when I can afford them,

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There is alot of chatter on Facebook about Weber "genuine" carbs.   Mine is not stamped anywhere with the Weber logo, it only has a round plastic sticker... Does this mean my carburetor is not "genuine" 

 

Usually, yes. The legit carbs have a W cast into the top plate. The Chinese fakes do not.

 

 

and if so does it really matter?

 

Not a lot. In the long term, it could. May not stay in tune as well, or may wear prematurely. 

 

Quality on the fakes seems decent, and they work just as well initially as the real deal. But since the fakes are relatively new on the scene, there isn't a lot of evidence as to how they hold up long term. 

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On my previous 1200 I had a genuine one but on this one I definitely do not have that stamp.

 

I guess I will see how it goes, it is temporary only, as I said until I can afford to have my Dellorto DHLA 40 carbs both rebuilt and buy a linkage kit and ram tubes and soft mounts.

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Good day for painting.  First real warm sunny day of Spring so far.

 

Painted coin trays and other bits.

 

Also inspected dash wiring harness.  Cleaned and re-taped harness.

 

I found some additional wiring for a light.  Not listed on my wiring diagram.  Anyone know what it is for?  Dash light for radio? or light console clock?

 

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I noticed the bolt holes on the Weber adapter that fit to the manifold are cupped at the bottom of the adapter plate.   Probably from machining the holes.

 

How do I get the nuts to sit flat?  Any ideas?

 

You are supposed to remove the studs from the intake and use countersunk bolts. screwed in from the top. 

 

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