djwarp Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Will a 720 carburetor fit a 521 I want to put this one ? http://m.ebay.com/itm/271766722778?_mwBanner=1 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 It might, but even if it did, it's jetted for an engine that is 50% larger than your 1600? I assume you have a '70 or newer PL521??? 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Yea I have a 72 idk if it's the pl521 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 It might bolt to the manifold. The 521 has a manual choke, this carb is electric choke. The throttle cable might not fit. The 521 air cleanr probably will not fit, and like mike said, the jetting might be off for your engine. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 What he is saying is it's a 1600 cc engine or 1.6. The 720 carb is jetted for a engine twice the size. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Does the 70-72 have electric choke or did I lose my marbles? 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I get it any recommendations on a not do expensive carb for the 521? 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 that's what it has on right now 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 What's wrong with that one. Can't you just clean and rebuild? 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Well idk what's really wrong with the truck it self I'm trying to figure out why it don't start after I changed the plugs and wires it didn't want to start no more I changed the distributor rotor the cap seems good I'm trying to narrow it down to why it doesn't want to start 1 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 If it started before you changed something, the something you changed is likely the problem. Make sure you didn't screw up the firing order. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Keep the weber, it's a way better carb for your engine than 720 carb. If you changed the plugs and wires, you likely messed up the wires, the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2, counter clockwise, that is COUNTER CLOCKWISE, most that have this issue put them on clockwise. and it will not run anymore, I am a big fan of replacing wires one at a time. 3 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Take the Weber to someone and have it rebuilt or cleaned if you think that is causing problems. Firing order has got to be off if its not running. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Can you post a video of it cranking so we can help you figures out what's it doing. Do you even get a sputter or just crank crank crank. And if so first things first check for spark, pull the distributor wire and crank and check for spark. Do you have fuel you be surprised even the best of us has fallen for that, are you getting fuel at the carb. Help us help you. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 From your pic I am going to bet spark plug wires are correct and it looks like I can see some fuel in the filter? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Doesn't look right to me, it looks like 1, 2, 3, 4, counter clock wise to me, with #1 being at 12 o'clock for some reason. From your pic I am going to bet spark plug wires are correct and it looks like I can see some fuel in the filter? 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 No look again number 1 is at 1000 clock and 3 4 2 going couter clock wise and again I'm judging buying it's path over the valve cover.. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I look at where the wire goes down, but if the numbers on the wires go to the plug they are labeled as, then it looks semi close for an L16. I was looking at how the wires went down after the clip on the valve cover, it looks like 1 is going to 2, and 2 to 1. My distributor is turned a little more clock wise, my engine is an L20b, my #1 post is at 4 O'clock, on an L16 that would be about 10 O'clock, he is at 9 O'clock. It would be easy if I were there, run it to TDC, check the rotor position to make sure it pointed right at the #1 post, button it up and start it. BTW, it looks like 9 O'clock to me(maybe 9:15), it looks straight forward to me, something is wrong, it ran before the tune up. :( No look again number 1 is at 1000 clock and 3 4 2 going couter clock wise and again I'm judging buying it's path over the valve cover.. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I see what your saying but I bet ya it's a optical illusion 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I didn't notice the numbers on the wires before, so it's likely they are going to the correct plugs. He is closer to you than me, why don't you run on over there and get it running for him, being your not working and all. I see what your saying but I bet ya it's a optical illusion 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 well if you changed SOEMTHING then I don't start it don't take no GED to figure this out. Most times you did something wrong. Fire order of the wires looks right. I assume you replaced 1 wire at a time. If points or condenser was swapped this is most likely it. Take the center wire from the cap and place near ground and start the truck if it sparks then most like its OK then maybe your fire order is correct but started at the wrong spot. If NO spark ck the points for the correct gap. something is grounding out SIMPLE FIX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PS do not change anything else. No new Coils that are size of suitcases ect.... only leads to trouble unless you know which is the correct one to install. 1 Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 The wires have current going thru I shocked my self when Some one else turned it on I have replaced the distributor rotor the cap looks fine idk if it might be timing or not when I try to turn the truck on it sounds like it wants to start but it won't I recently checked the fuel filter and looks like it's dry on it I'm not sure if it's because I haven't had it running for like 2 weeks 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 most fuel filter look half full. did distributor get turn in one direction more. one can or a lttle gas down the carb. unless you put the 2nd set poin wire up the the main set point wire. main set it blk red I think on 521s bur relloking at your dist look maybe you have a matchbox ignition on there.Or a Pertronix conversion soem better photos would help. as a 521 has a L16 motor and I see a sawtooth timming plate on right side front cover which to me indicates a L20 motor and or parts Quote Link to comment
djwarp Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I'll take pics later today and send em the distributor rotor has a arrow that says point to cam in which it is Quote Link to comment
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