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Project Datstang


Bory

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You know that you can change the gearing in your H190 to just about anything you want, they made everything from 488s to 330s, and lots of stuff between, the Datsun/Nissan 720 came with 450s, 437s, 411s, 390s, 370s, 350s, and 330s, and they made 488s and 513s or there abouts in the Datsun 320, but I never seen a 513 gearset myself.

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Ya kinda learned all that from you guys. But I'm gonna be pushing some hp thru this thing, and I need a posi. This is a budget build and I have a fresh posi, with perfect gears sittin there. Instead of spending more and hunting down something I might break anyways. Well you know where I'm going with this.

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Ya kinda learned all that from you guys. But I'm gonna be pushing some hp thru this thing, and I need a posi. This is a budget build and I have a fresh posi, with perfect gears sittin there. Instead of spending more and hunting down something I might break anyways. Well you know where I'm going with this.

 

 

 

True why go hunting for parts that might break under higher HP when you already have the parts you need readily accessible

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The H190 would probably work just fine, but those 8.8's have proven to take a lot of abuse on and off the race track, and they are a dime a dozen if you need to replace it.  Plus you should also be able to find anything you need for it brand new.  I also like the idea that if you're doing a swap, to go ahead and do a full engine/drivetrain swap. 

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The best one to grab is the one that comes out of the 98 5.0 explorer, it's 5 lug posi and disc set up.

Just sold one that I parted out months before I got the 521. Who knew.

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I'm noticing a lot of these 521's with guys that want to run em low, with like 5" of blocks back there. They do come with real stiff leafs. I mentioned that I de arched my rear springs and it is fairly easy to do if you have a hydraulic press. Like a harbor freight one. Once you pull the spring pack apart, you lay the main spring upside down with the arch going upward on the ground. Measure from the center hole to the ground and save this number. You can do about a 3" de-arch safely and not have to see those rear springs coming from a mile away. What ever you take out of the main spring in inches to the ground is the amount it will lower it. Start by putting the spring in the press about 4" away from the center bolt bend it in an opposite motion so it bends it flat. Do that every 4" or so all the way down on both sides of the center bolt. Measure and see of you have the desired drop. If not repeat. And if you went to far reverse the bend a bit until you get it just right. Once the main spring is done then do the same to the next spring in the stack, until it lays In the main one like two spoons do. Touching all the way with no gaps. Do this to all the springs and bolt it all back together and you can loose 3" of blocks with that approach. I got 5" drop with 3" blocks and 2" de-arch. The springs are under the truck where they should be not not all exposed like a lady of the evening with a skirt that measures one billionth of an inch. I'll add some pics of the springs when I get the 8.8 in this weekend.

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That's too bad not sure if you know much about em but they have a bad vibration at idle and even GM couldn't figure it out. Wackin off two holes off a small block didn't work out that well. I've had three of them. I finally gave up. Who knows hopefully you'll have better luck.

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yea...it was cheap so i think it will work for now. i might eventually put a small block 327 in it.

Small block Chevy is bigger than the small block Ford. For what is worth, from my measurements the SBF is right about the same length as Chevy's 3.8 pushrod v6. So figure on more clearance issues than what Bory is running into if you go SBC. That said, its been done, and I'm sure the build is up on here somewhere.

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