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71 dATTO cOMING ALIVE


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hey i want to say that i have been following this build from day one and the car looks awsome. but one thing i wanted to mention was about the volvo fuel pump that you are running i know volvos have two fuel pumps one intank and another on the frame rail and they run the one intank because the one on the frame does not suck very well. all in all iam pretty much thinking that it could cause the pump to prematurely wear out because its over working the pump. just thought i would mention it.

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There are guys on here that have done tons, and I mean tons of SR and KA swaps using this pump. It is said that the Volvo turbo pump has extremley good psi, competeing with the Walbro pumps. Thanks for the heads up, if it fails atleast its a 10 minute job anywhere, I will be sure to grab another one and keep it in my tool box :) Besides the fuel gravities down to the pump so its not like the pumps working hard to pull, and the pressure side is strong, real strong

Edited by SRSANDS
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There are guys on here that have done tons, and I mean tons of SR and KA swaps using this pump. It is said that the Volvo turbo pump has extremley good psi, competeing with the Walbro pumps. Thanks for the heads up, if it fails atleast its a 10 minute job anywhere, I will be sure to grab another one and keep it in my tool box :) Besides the fuel gravities down to the pump so its not like the pumps working hard to pull, and the pressure side is strong, real strong

 

sweet thats good to know. i thought i would just mention it

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Damn nice build!!

Im getting ready to start on my 4-door '71 and been thinking of using a vg30 for the powerplant.

Actually your build is very close to what I have been picturing my 510 turning out as. Its almost spooky.

Hoping to start bodywork in Feb. and am looking forward to it. Im sure that will get old real fast though. :P

 

P.S. Merry Christmas!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, since I hae been saving for headers Ive done some of the small crap to the car.....

 

Installed T3 camber plates my wife got me for christmas!But unfortunatley I hate gold, and am going to have that finished removed

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Nice and low...aggresive stance

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Went to the pull apart and searched an searched for a fan that I liked...I found one from a SAAB that was all enclosed and fit what I was looing for. Since im using a VW radiator with those tiny tiny ass coolant fins I didnt want to use a universal mount kit that requires holes to be poked though...it just didnt seem like a good idea. The VW rad is plastic with inserts in several locations for the stock VW appliations. This worked perfect for fabbing a cross bracket to hold the fan...

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Also since VW fans have exposed fins on the top I made a cover plate. At first I was wondering how I was going to secure it to the top but found a pretty good solution. The top of the radiator plastic ends have round indents that held rubber isolator in the stock VW application.I took 10mm nuts, filed the edges abit to round them, and tapped them in with a little epoxy....

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With the help of the guys here on the forum I wired in the VW temp sensor and fan with a relay

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Figured out the intake and MAF tubeing, all though I may have to adjust it when I mill down intake plenum...

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Finished up the trans tunnel work...I was going weld in new metal but I didnt want to pull the seat and dash to weld so I fabbed a filler plate

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Installed a moroso filler neck....not sure if its going to clear the hood but I will worry about that once the beast is running

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Well, tonight I totally ruined my car. I ruined it so bad I shouldnt even drive it when I get the VG running. I shouldnt be seen it and no other 510 owner will want to blow down I5 to Canby with me in a Convoy of bad ass Datsuns....

 

TA DA

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Dont sweat it....a caron fiber hood may be in the future...nothings permanent ha ha

Just kidding....i told alot of the guys what I wanted to do and didnt get a good response. But in the long run I guess thats why we each build our cars by our own design and cant just buy them off a mass production line. Little whels, big wheels, Bozo, ratsun rusty rod, show and shine ect, the choices are endless To each their own and to me I F@#$in love this look. It just says "Dont F@#$ with me" :rolleyes: Whats the point of making a sleeper look? After all I have seen many muscles cars all raked out with a butt rocker stance and fat meats in the rear with a stock inline six, so basically fast means fast not looks mean fast right? I want mine to look fast and be fasr :) Ha ha cant you tell I have to defend my choice:)People dont like this thing on my hood ha ha ha. Im gonna cut under it ith a plasm cutter also so its functional.

 

I also threw in this mini tach and wired up the lights a week or so

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Whatever do you mean sir? If your talking aout the skeletal framing of the hood...it doesnt hit anything that Im aware of. The throttle body on the intake is actually flat against the hood skin. Im not sure wether to mill down the intake mani or bond a strip of rubber in the rubbing area and call it good. I do have to cut and weld me existing throttle cable bracket from a stock bulge to flat but thats easy. Its really hard to say what I need to do until its running. After all Nissan has always boasted that the VG the the smoothest non vibrating V6 built. To be honest I dont give a rats ass if the motor wears a hole in the hood for its new home if it saves me money and time to mill the intake mani down. If I do that I have to pull my drivers side valve cover and figure out how to eliminate one of the two breather tubes poking out of the bitch:) easy to do but.....really...f that ha ha. What ever it may be though my hood needs a body rework. Spider cracks in paint from it falling on tools, 180 and 320 scrateches...basically its at a perfect point to not give a F@#$. Besides I always wanted a CF hood and or a fiberglass skin if I cant afford and this hood was free (it was actually from the electric blue mighty mouse rotary powered car featured in super street owned by Tiny couple years back, if you recall, it was beat down when I got it, I just fixed her up and called it good. The framing in the hood prop area had been cut out to fit something to do with the rotary :)

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I havent checked out this thread in a while. The car is looking good man! I bet it screams!

 

Thanks bro....the only thing this car screams is to be outta the damn garag soon (along with its owner) ! ha ah ha. I need front glass, front and rear seals and headers, and then the wiring and it will move out of its cave on its own power. Last summer I had it cruzin around without glas and I thought it was quick. Turns out the L16 i was tearing up the town wit had a bad cylinder ha ha ha

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wow, just read all 6 pages of your project, nice to see it becoming what you envisioned it, like 2+ years ago, I

like how you found that V6 for it, noticed that vintage "Datsun Comp " sticker on the firewall is that a orginal or a repo?

was a wholesale parts mgr. back in the 80's down in LB ca. brings back good memories. Good luck with the rest of your build :)

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Thanks...Im not sure abot the sticker. I was in a local wrecking yard and a 620 was rocking it on its rear glass. I carefully peeled it off and stick it to a piece of plastic then in my tool box. I was able to salvage it....it may be og

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Today I learned that when intalling the oilpan I my dipstick wasnt poperly located. Today I filled the VG with oil and tried to remove the dipstick for a reading. It wasnt coming out. Aghhh Fuck...now I gotta lift the motor up....drop the crossmember and pan and fix my screw up....oh well, I gues thats why its a project huh

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Man....Finally finished fixing my screw up and back on track! I had to unbolt the struts and all the steering linkage and remove the starter. Pick the motor up with a hoist. Remove the entire crossmember. Drain my new oil :( Remove the pan and remove all the old sealant on the block on my back under the car (sucky) and from the pan. Reapply the sealant and bolt all 25 10mm bolts back up, put the crossmember in (which was a bitch) and then fight getting the mounts lined up to the factory 510 isolators (more of a bitch). Put the starter in. Reinstall all the steering components and struts. Put the wheels back on and WHEW!!!! Back on track man that was a shitty leason to learn! Sucks to be a noob to swaps :)

 

LESSON LEARNED: DO NOT INSTALL A NEW OILPAN WITH A CABLE STYLE DIPSTICK STILL IN THE BLOCK! IT MAY NOT BE IN THE RIGHT LOCATION.

 

Dont ask me how but if I would have fired the motor for the first time before realizing my dipstick wasnt in its guide box or checking the oil level, it would have wrapped around my f'in crank the second I turned the key and screwed up the motor in a hot second....whewwww

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