72240z Posted June 1, 2013 Report Share Posted June 1, 2013 Lol that's how I have mine sitting. I use the Stock afm boot that goes to the original air filter and just crammed a 45* bend in it and a K&N after that. For oils I use Valvoline VR1 20w-50. Been running my engine like that since I had it rebuilt about 6 years ago. 35k miles with about 7 CA to FL trips for college and counting. What size Grids did you end up getting? Late I know but I love that oil. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 1, 2013 Report Share Posted June 1, 2013 Rota Grid-V or classic depending on country. 15x9 -15 is the biggest offset they have. 600~700 for a SET.... thats like 1 real Volk wheel... Uno.... Ah man that's what I thought. I think I'm going to end up with a set of enkei compe 16x8's for mine. I'd rather 16" tire options. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted June 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2013 You should get a front lip next, since yours is mangled. As for the tires...well you need to work on suspension, but at least you'll be able to rotate them eh, I'm thinking about keeping it stock. maybe the classic fiberglass from MSA or Type 1 (only good lookin one that flows with the body imo) I actually want one of those arita-speed none G-nose one but taking that home from japan is guna be pain in the ass and too expensive... not doing it. But If I were to do anything more to the body, 3 piece from S30 or those bre style ones would come first.. I got Inspection coming up soon. Down here in texas the 25+ yr car should be exempt from emission but if it keeps on failing then I might work on exaust a little. but if theres no problem I'm changing the ware parts on the brakes... Its so used that it doesn't brake lock even on the hardest kick. natural ABS haha... Ah man that's what I thought. I think I'm going to end up with a set of enkei compe 16x8's for mine. I'd rather 16" tire options. Too many people wear watanabe style wheels.. but hey, It looks cool thats for sure. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 Mah monster tuck truck 2 Quote Link to comment
bludestiny Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Did you use white out to color in the falken lol? And from the side, its not half bad Quote Link to comment
Spoona_Jay21 Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 looks good. i like how high it sits with those wheels. looks uber clean. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Did you use white out to color in the falken lol? And from the side, its not half bad yup. I used testors white enamel to paint it. but then I realize enamel paints hardens up. after 1 ride on wet road It didin't really crack. survived an fender rub even. But hey, doesn't it look old school & muscle? lol. I like how it stick out from the front actually. Quote Link to comment
ClassicDatsun Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 We bought a 280zx Supra MR2 And we all can't drive yet! haha i'm still driving around on my learners permit only reason i renewed it was so i could cash my checks and it was cheeper than getting a lisence :lol: Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Took out Air filter, MAF , and cleaned out throttle body with couple of bicycle tools... Pain in the ass.... Before After And My buddy's supra also got new wheels. So I took a couple of pics for him: Quote Link to comment
Spoona_Jay21 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 great cleanup! wish i had the patience to clean somethin that well =P and the Supra looks great! Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted June 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 I think its the AC clutch but can anyone confirm this? A/C blows as always (not too cold...prly needs refill) kicks In normally and Kicks Out normally. But when the compressor kicks in: -It makes rattle, click click noise-Compressor belt speed stays the same but Fan belt n alternator speed slows down And ignore whatever I'm saying in the vid plz lol Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 the a/c probably has a low pressure switch that's hiccuping, try adding some to get it at the right pressure and go from there. Quote Link to comment
bludestiny Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Try refilling it and see what happens. Normally in old cars its not just the clutch it's the whole compressor. Also your idle should jump a few hundred rpms (say from 700 to 1000rpm). That indicated either you're missing a vacuum line and the extra load is causing the idle to drop a little (not to bad since it still holds idle) or the compressor is starting to sieze, meaning you need a new compressor. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Try refilling it and see what happens. Normally in old cars its not just the clutch it's the whole compressor. Also your idle should jump a few hundred rpms (say from 700 to 1000rpm). That indicated either you're missing a vacuum line and the extra load is causing the idle to drop a little (not to bad since it still holds idle) or the compressor is starting to sieze, meaning you need a new compressor. I just disconnected the wire that goes to the compressor... so atleast the fan will turn. Houston is usually 90's ~ 100's everyday .... but fu*k it, I'll just sweat in the car like crazy..... Quote Link to comment
bludestiny Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 If you just not using the compressor, you should be able to ditch the belt that goes to it. The main belt goes over the alternator, crank pulley and water pump. Are you actually daily driving this? because I know that feel when its raining, and you have no workign air, and it turns into a sauna in the car. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 If you are going to refill it and your in texas I HIGHLY RECCOMEND, not converting to 134a, that is, unless you like being warmer than you could be, blowing up your AC system, replacing the pump, and still effectively having less effeciency and cooling power than R12 TRUST ME, the R12 is worth the money, It is also a more reliable refrigerant, and runs at lower pressures and creates less wear on the system, if its already converted to 134a and working then just stay with that, but if its not converted, DONT convert it. And R12 is not bad for YOU just the O-zone layer. But Mr. Ozone layer, does not have to ride around in a hot ass datsauna. 2 Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 If you are going to refill it and your in texas I HIGHLY RECCOMEND, not converting to 134a, that is, unless you like being warmer than you could be, blowing up your AC system, replacing the pump, and still effectively having less effeciency and cooling power than R12 TRUST ME, the R12 is worth the money, It is also a more reliable refrigerant, and runs at lower pressures and creates less wear on the system, if its already converted to 134a and working then just stay with that, but if its not converted, DONT convert it. And R12 is not bad for YOU just the O-zone layer. But Mr. Ozone layer, does not have to ride around in a hot ass datsauna. well i'd love to get the R12 and fill it up and all, But until the reason behind the cranking noise is clear as to either its Broken internally or Low refrigiant pressure, I can't buy it man... and yeah, I show no love to the enviroment or to myself by riding a gazzling 2.8 litre car with almost no smog in the first place. Quote Link to comment
fairladiesman Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 So are you driving this yet? Inline 6 Motors make noise. They just do. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 So are you driving this yet? Inline 6 Motors make noise. They just do. lol yeah. I don't even care about engine noise anymore, If it blows up then it blows up. A good reason to rebuild. Quote Link to comment
fairladiesman Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Hahahaha Yeah i said the same thing. I want your front bumper. I heard its smaller than the 79s bumper. Well that it doesnt stick out as much. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted July 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Hahahaha Yeah i said the same thing. I want your front bumper. I heard its smaller than the 79s bumper. Well that it doesnt stick out as much. I hate latemodel trims in general... I replaced the B-pillar trim with 79, planning on doing the same with bumpers if it looks retarded with airdams, which I will probably get in next couple of month.... probably by this year. I literally took my dad's saw and poked a hole through the 83 bumper, took the little vent thingy in the trunk and slapped it on. I do like the rear that I shaved the tumors off of... looks jdm. Quote Link to comment
ClassicDatsun Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 I hate latemodel trims in general... I replaced the B-pillar trim with 79, planning on doing the same with bumpers want to trade parts? :D Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 LOL pix...? http://community.ratsun.net/topic/53986-diy-280zx-jdm-style-bumper/ My draw up. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 want to trade parts? :D good luck shipping. huehuehue Quote Link to comment
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