bludestiny Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 You should really consider buying a non egr intake and exhaust. Both of which I have......PM me if your interested. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Yes I used bunch of brass fittings and hellova clamps to make a fuel rail with shit quality fuel hoses. No, I don't have the money or tools to make an aluminium fuel rail.. Install the fuel-pumpDo something about the Distributor Vacuum linestune and I'm done... SO CLOSE... (*also Is it ok that my return line has quite a bit of fuel pressure?.... Its coming back from the tank and it bothers me..... ) Quote Link to comment
jalen Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 make sure those hoses and clamps are tight! and try to source a rail as soon as you can! would hate for gas to drop on your exhaust manifold. Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Did you use the fuel hose designed for high pressure or using regular stuff? Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Did you use the fuel hose designed for high pressure or using regular stuff? So called "fuel line hose" from those big ol' rolls from napa. Its not for fuel injection but I'm sure it can stand 3 pumpin psi of fuel vs 30psi of the FI'.... It better be able to. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Anyone has tips for a leaky banjo bolt gasket? Its brand spanking new and torqued pretty tight but gas still smears out. Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Have a look at the ALL the mating surfaces (bolt, copper washers and line), there might be an imperfection that you could possibly file down. Assemble it, turn on the pump so it pressurizes and tighten it, wipe it ~ and tighten it more until it stops wetting your finger when you check it. Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 and here's a good example of what not to do 1 Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Did they give you the copper crush washers with your banjo bolt? If not, that's your problem. They're pretty important because they machine the parts so that the tolerances require you to use them. Also, yeah, the money spent on a fuel rail is money well spent. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Have a look at the ALL the mating surfaces (bolt, copper washers and line), there might be an imperfection that you could possibly file down. Assemble it, turn on the pump so it pressurizes and tighten it, wipe it ~ and tighten it more until it stops wetting your finger when you check it. Did they give you the copper crush washers with your banjo bolt? If not, that's your problem. They're pretty important because they machine the parts so that the tolerances require you to use them. Also, yeah, the money spent on a fuel rail is money well spent. Yeah, i have washers and gasket on there but its pretty crushed already... Thats probably why. Can i use cheap oil drain plug washers as an alternative? Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 The copper washers can be bought for just a couple bucks at an auto parts store, what gasket are you referring to? Should only be two copper washers, I could be wrong though. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 The copper washers can be bought for just a couple bucks at an auto parts store, what gasket are you referring to? Should only be two copper washers, I could be wrong though. The rebuild kit included 2 fabric? Fiber ish washers. The old carbs came with really squished aluminium washers Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Hey guys, what if i use nylon washers? Since nylons are : Fuel resistant Squishable. Flexible Yet its pretty strong.. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 These carbs are Gddamn amazing.... Its not in the video but it started on the first turn. then after adjusting, It Idled PERFECTLY.... I love it.. Gotta adjust air Fuel ratio tommorow. Its running a little on lean side in the vid. Also the Fuel from banjo stopped leaking after a while... weird. but will keep an eye on it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 The front carbs are appearently too lean.... The mixture nut is pretty far down n needle is up pretty high yet its still is... Could it be that float level is way off? Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 does the fuel supply feed the front or rear carb first? Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 does the fuel supply feed the front or rear carb first? to be honest I have no idea It drops in the center and returns from both sides. he rear carb gets no or too little rpm change to notice when i lift the piston while when i do that to the front, it dies. I tried fiddling with fuel level but no luck, so I put it back to what it should be. also I tried loosening the needle, push the piston then turn it so the needle shoulder is flat with the very bottom of the piston but that made the lean front carb even lean-er, while the rear carbs were unaffected... I raise the piston in the rear, No change. I'm starting to guess this is a throttle leak problem.... or its running on one carbs. . Quote Link to comment
bludestiny Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 It should be routed like the solution. The stock fuel rail is a simple U bent line with two outlets for the fuel to the carbs. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 But then wouldnt that make the rear carb run lean? but eh i guess i gotta try... time to go buy hoses again.. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 It should be routed like the solution. The stock fuel rail is a simple U bent line with two outlets for the fuel to the carbs. hows this? if either one doesn't fix it.... I'm blaming it on the shit fuel pump for not enough fuel pressure. 1 Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 Re routed the fuel line, no change at all. Whats weird is that even if i lift the piston of the rear carb pretty far, theres no rpm change so you'd think the rear isnt getting anyfuel. But when you look at the spark plugs, the rear 3 cyl are wet and fouled while the front are dry but black.... Damn right i am confused Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 well, you lift the slide which increases fuel, but without butterfly opened to give more air you would have the back three wet from more fuel and no change in air Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 what's got you thinking there's a lean condition? could you post another vid with rpm range, and then explanation of what condition and what you think is causing it? show us how you're checking for richer or leaner on the eng... Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 so back three cylinders arent firing? sounds like its running on all cylinders but it seems like its not firing or too rich..... to be honest its hard to tell.. but if this helps you, when I put Unisyn on the rear carb, the rpm goes up... when i lift the piston pretty damn high nothing happens.. if it were running right, im sure it'll flood with fuel Quote Link to comment
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