Bought a ZX and forgot about the permit

[Bleach]

You don't need more inner clearance in the rear. Just get wheels with zero or negative offset. The fenders are so deep they can tuck Russia itself.

[Ryoskatekov]

You don't need more inner clearance in the rear. Just get wheels with zero or negative offset. The fenders are so deep they can tuck Russia itself.

 

the front is what I'm worried...  

the wheel I want is 15x9 -15 

so estimating that the hub its self is around 1~2 inch thats...  wow... I must've been retarded. that does fit the 4.5in back space hun? lol 

[Ryoskatekov]

Anyways, My plan with the styling of 280zx as of now 

-Get TE37V knock offs (coming soon) 
-Lower the car (S13 coil mod, cut springs, what ever) 

-No bumper with 90's Maxima Turn signals and msa type 1. 
-Widen n Retro fit BRE front spoiler 
-Maybe MSA VIctory Rear spoiler. 
 

[bludestiny]

I'm effectively running 17x9 -28 in the front of my ZX. and 17x10 -20 in the rear. I gots teh camber from lowz tho

[Ryoskatekov]

Heres another lame ass update 
Removed the gay Autozone audio & speakers. 
Installed a even gayer radio scanner (CB,HAM,FM,PD/FD,Weather) and a Front plate with cardboard and pat leather. 
Damn functional and works like charm 

Also added a battery kill key for convenience. I hate un-screwing the battery connector each time I work on something electrical. 

I think I'll keep it Pushed in



Repaired the big ass hole in the spare tire well 



Lol just for fun 

[Ryoskatekov]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/53986-diy-280zx-jdm-style-bumper/

[Ryoskatekov]

Well, after all the interiors secured with actual bolts , holes closed, windows corked, and actually quiet, 

I can finally enjoy the engine sound... or atleast i thought i could without worrying my ass off. 

yeah I get its a old sohc but 
Is it suppose to be making like a little chatter, rattle sound as I give it some gas? (3000+) 
I think its the cam sound. maybe one of the oil holes are clogged idk. 
I dont even know what viscosity oil the last guy used. 

any ideas based on my terribly vague detail? 

*edit* and its not that loud either. I can only hear it on "clean" roads in houston 

[bludestiny]

chatter is normal on these engines. Post a vid if its abnormal, or if it feels like it's down on power or something like that. I mean my car makes a rattle at idle, but I can't hear shit when I'm flooring it

[72240z]

A quiet L series is one out of adjustment 

[datzenmike]

 

Is it suppose to be making like a little chatter, rattle sound as I give it some gas? (3000+) 

I think its the cam sound. maybe one of the oil holes are clogged idk. 

I dont even know what viscosity oil the last guy used. 

 

 

 

Valve train noise doesn't get louder just because you floor it. If the rattle sound is when the engine is under load it could be pinging or an exhaust leak.

 

It's more important to have oil in it than what viscosity. Next opportunity change it and the filter so you know. The oil today contains less and less ZDDP (a zinc additive to reduce scuffing) than when your car was built. Try 15w40 Chevron Dello400 or Shell Rotella. Tell the guy at NAPA you want flat tappet cam oil

[72240z]

I agree valve chatter shouldnt change, it could be knocking or something but its really impossible for anyone to say just guessing via the internet. Take a video or have a mech go for a ride with you. 

I use valvoline zr1 sae50, its their highest zddp oil.

Its been discussed on other forums and I agree that for L6's leaning towards a thicker viscosity is beneficial. 50 is good for me all year round so in texas it most def should be for you lol. 

[Ryoskatekov]

I cant find Big bottles of VR1 though...    

Can I just add additives to regular oil if they don't have high-zinc ones? 
(plus.. arn't ZDDP for break-in s of the cam?)  

I mean, too high of ZDDP corrodes cams don't they? 
I'm no pro, so I'll just leave it to Napa or what ever when i have the chance but just wondering... 

[Ryoskatekov]

Not too shabby....   

[Ryoskatekov]

[ArchetypeDatsun]

Not a big enough picture but I like those wheels on S130s.

 

[Ryoskatekov]

Not a big enough picture but I like those wheels on S130s.

 

 

Wow, never even knew there was S130 out there with TE37V 

[Ryoskatekov]

Chopped up my shitty Cold air intake today... 


By hack saw....      It was hella pain 

Result : 
Before 


After

[datzenmike]

Holy shit a cold air intake that is actually in front of the rad!!!!

[bludestiny]

Lol that's how I have mine sitting. I use the Stock afm boot that goes to the original air filter and just crammed a 45* bend in it and a K&N after that. 

 

For oils I use Valvoline VR1 20w-50. Been running my engine like that since I had it rebuilt about 6 years ago. 35k miles with about 7 CA to FL trips for college and counting. 
 

What size Grids did you end up getting?

[Ryoskatekov]

Lol that's how I have mine sitting. I use the Stock afm boot that goes to the original air filter and just crammed a 45* bend in it and a K&N after that. 

 

For oils I use Valvoline VR1 20w-50. Been running my engine like that since I had it rebuilt about 6 years ago. 35k miles with about 7 CA to FL trips for college and counting. 

 

What size Grids did you end up getting?

 

15x9 -15.   Extreme for Honduh boyz but not enough for me :P 

[Ryoskatekov]

Yeah, I'm suspecting its a rod knock since it only comes up when I rev it up a little bit. 

[Ryoskatekov]

whats the best way to test it? By pulling off plug wire or injector connector? 

[datzenmike]

Well we're diagnosing from your description. Pre ignition is also a load dependent sound. It's higher pitched like a small hammer on metal, more of a ticking or pinging sound. Check the timing and run higher octane gas. If this fixes it that that is what it was.

 

Rod knock is usually  deeper, muffled. Rod bearing clearance is critical. There has to be enough room for oil to act like a thin pillow between the crank and the rod pushing down yet not so much that the rod can accelerate faster than the crank. If it does it will pound right through the oil film and hit the slower moving crank. That's the dull muffled sound like a sledge hammer hitting a block. Usually by the time you can hear it the bearing shell has been pounded into an oval and the crank bearing surface all scuffed. If very lucky the bearings can be changed to bring the clearances back into spec and the oil can once again begin absorbing this load. I had a very old tires L16 once that had slight knocking. I rebuilt it and replaced all the bearings. The old bottom ones were all worn through the light layers and into the darker copper beneath.

 

I've taken engines apart where the bearing shells were worn razor thin, others where the bearing was being pounded out between rod and crank throws, some were blue from heat and others welded to the crank. The worst were the rods themselves completely welded to the crank which turning, snaps them off and pounds them through the side of the block.

 

Remove the spark plug wires one at a time. Note any differences. If two or more you may not find out this way.

[Ryoskatekov]

its a very light tapping sound and its not really quick or unstable either .  also, causes NO extra vibration or loss of power/torque even at higher rpm.... and its only when I give it gas at +2500 rpm so i guess it isn't bearing but i will check the spark plug either way. 

The ignition coil is most likely never been replaced and oil is leaking from it so that might be it too. 

also it only happens when oil is a little hotter too. doesn't happen right after start up 


my best bet is that its a flat tappet cam sound still..    you have to remember I'm 15 and not sure as to whats normal and what isn't 


 

[Syncro]

throw some octane booster and your tank and see what happens, the motor in my eclipse is a swapped jdm 6bolt 4g63 and was getting pre-detonation every now and then on 86 octane, put some premuim in there and I didn't get any pre-detonation, tried 86 octane again later on and it started knocking again.