datzenmike Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 You're changing to a hotter plug? With EI ignition 0.038"-0.042" gap is recommended. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 The 6 is cooler I believe... Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/unionproduce/zoomc-ni63-061.htmlman I need to contact my Aunt and get her to ship one of these LOL.... Its a lowering spring that can be safely cut about 2 coils without sagging or changing ride quality.... says max is about -70mm (about 3 inch) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 The 6 is cooler I believe... Crap, what'd I say??? A colder plug may not clean itself properly. They work like a self cleaning oven. Heat burns off deposits but you don't want them to be toooo hot. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Crap, what'd I say??? A colder plug may not clean itself properly. They work like a self cleaning oven. Heat burns off deposits but you don't want them to be toooo hot. when I search OEM replacement plug in Japanese the results are Mostly BPR5ES-11 or Iredium counter parts...(maybe I'm confusing myself with the L20E & ET) but when I search in English (U.S) the results are usually BPR6ES-11 ? well, I will check for remaining of fuel after couple of runs... It may take a while since my father is the only one that can drive MT in my house as of now (I don't have permit yet... about to though) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Oh, they'll work but usually a cold plug is easier to foul. Too hot a range can cause pinging. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Sorry guys but well, a 15 year old gets paid minimum wage at the work place so its probably going to take 6 month or so to get things going.... I'm broka-broke but once I'm saved up, plannin on poop-flush-ing the 280zx with japanese lowering springs and maybe TE37V knockoffs (Houston roads.... no hellaflush for me :( ) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Got no money? Don't pay money for springs!!! You can still do stuff yourself. Like remove the strut, take spring out and remove a coil. This will increase the spring rate and make it stiffer. Cut the lower spring mount off and grind the weld down and use split collars to adjust the height. Empty the thin hydraulic oil out of the dampers and refill with 20 W hydraulic oil (I used motorcycle fork oil) and assemble. Firmer ride with like new shock absorbers and adjustable ride height. I did this on my 710 goon when replacing the struts with those from a Maxima. Total cost was under $50. Then do the backs. Here's some of it. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-5 Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Got no money? Don't pay money for springs!!! You can still do stuff yourself. Like remove the strut, take spring out and remove a coil. This will increase the spring rate and make it stiffer. Cut the lower spring mount off and grind the weld down and use split collars to adjust the height. Empty the thin hydraulic oil out of the dampers and refill with 20 W hydraulic oil (I used motorcycle fork oil) and assemble. Firmer ride with like new shock absorbers and adjustable ride height. I did this on my 710 goon when replacing the struts with those from a Maxima. Total cost was under $50. Then do the backs. Here's some of it. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-5 well, for the fronts, I actually thought about cutting the spring mount and do what you said. (though I dont even have a wheel cutter... Might have to find a friend that has one) I know you 510 guys does the collar method but I'm not sure if the clamp will hold 280zx in houston roads.... The only problem might be that rear on the ZX doesn't have a strut tube... Its a all in one strut with pushed in spring mount... I guess I could push out the mount, cut it, and clamp it? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 The split collar is rated at 6,000 pounds so each one would support over two complete Z cars weights. (I don't think the zx weights 3,000 pounds does it?) You aren't driving it and have all the time in the world to work on this. Do NOT undo the struts without securing the spring in a clamp. There is a lot of stored energy in that compressed spring. Borrow or rent a spring compressor. The rears are a shock with a coil spring attached. Similar to the fronts. You would want the spring rate to be a close match to the fronts. I'm running about a 150 pound per inch on my 710 and like the feel. A Z car is heavier so maybe a little stiffer. There are formula for working out the spring rate, simple really after you have done a few. You can work out the stock rate and on paper remove one coil and work out the result. Mine is 50% stiffer than what I started with and like I say... I'm good with it. You may like more but I would start low and increase slowly. Once the spring is cut you can't put it back. Anyway before you cut, perhaps a few measurements and some calculations are in order. As to lowering it's not unlimited. Too far and the strut could bottom out. 2 or 3 inches as long as you make the spring stiffer. edit: I just looked up the original spring rate on the Maxima goon, which is built on the zx platform and very similar. The front springs were 145 pounds per inch so I would expect the zx is near that amount. In comparison the lighter 510 is about 90 and my 710 was 104. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 The split collar is rated at 6,000 pounds so each one would support over two complete Z cars weights. (I don't think the zx weights 3,000 pounds does it?) You aren't driving it and have all the time in the world to work on this. Do NOT undo the struts without securing the spring in a clamp. There is a lot of stored energy in that compressed spring. Borrow or rent a spring compressor. The rears are a shock with a coil spring attached. Similar to the fronts. You would want the spring rate to be a close match to the fronts. I'm running about a 150 pound per inch on my 710 and like the feel. A Z car is heavier so maybe a little stiffer. There are formula for working out the spring rate, simple really after you have done a few. You can work out the stock rate and on paper remove one coil and work out the result. Mine is 50% stiffer than what I started with and like I say... I'm good with it. You may like more but I would start low and increase slowly. Once the spring is cut you can't put it back. Anyway before you cut, perhaps a few measurements and some calculations are in order. As to lowering it's not unlimited. Too far and the strut could bottom out. 2 or 3 inches as long as you make the spring stiffer. edit: I just looked up the original spring rate on the Maxima goon, which is built on the zx platform and very similar. The front springs were 145 pounds per inch so I would expect the zx is near that amount. In comparison the lighter 510 is about 90 and my 710 was 104. Thanks mike. I will make sure to come back and remember this when I get a proper wheel atleast (I AM NOT lowering with the 14x6 stock wheel LOL.. Reminds me of first few month of PPK's car ) Quote Link to comment
PrimeLuxeZ Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Pretty sweet what you have done so far. You cant drive it, but when you do, it's gonna be running good, if you keep at it. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 beware of lift burglers LOL Negative camber is over-rated, its all about that positive camber Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Anyways, I took off the Injector fans that seemed non funtional. (or atleast I hope it was) And Here's one contributing reason why my ZX sounded a bit like a truck in the low rpms. quick fix. "And mike, looks like No spring clamps for me.... The rear is KYB and most likely, so is the front. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 OH and one more important thing. My driver side rear brake is barely working (It scrapes but I can TURN it by my hand...) Any possible causes to this? worn out brake pad? clogged brake line? broken piston?(i dont think the brake fluid is leaking) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Anyways, I took off the Injector fans that seemed non funtional. (or atleast I hope it was) Nissan didn't put them there for no reason. Don't throw them away you may want to put them on again when it gets hot out. OH and one more important thing. My driver side rear brake is barely working (It scrapes but I can TURN it by my hand...) Any possible causes to this? worn out brake pad? clogged brake line? broken piston? (i dont think the brake fluid is leaking) Take the wheel off and look at the pad thickness. If it needs replacing, now is the time. Is the rotor rusty? Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Actually, turns out the brake was no problem at all. The side brake was the only one not working right. All the wheel but the rear passenger wheel was turnable by hand * and its houston lol. Its already hot outside and injector fans NEVER came on.... Might as well open up space for wind to blow through Quote Link to comment
bludestiny Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 I think the injector fan is overrated, but then again I have like 4 layers of heat protection to my injectors. I tossed mine and have never had a problem in FL. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 I think the injector fan is overrated, but then again I have like 4 layers of heat protection to my injectors. I tossed mine and have never had a problem in FL. I looked at the fuse box today and the only reason it wasnt blowing was because of blown fuse.... But im not putting that oily mess bak though.. I mean whats the point of taking hot air near engine, fan it and move it to even hotter part? Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 MGUAHFMYGAGVBYUANWCGYUGWI could die right now staring at my cam cover went from this To this 1 Quote Link to comment
bludestiny Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I'd toss your cruise control unit and the wiper spray bottle and lines. Unless they works. My shit didn't so in the trash it went. Quote Link to comment
PrimeLuxeZ Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Thats pretty cool. I need to do that with mine, what a difference it makes just by painting it. Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I'd toss your cruise control unit and the wiper spray bottle and lines. Unless they works. My shit didn't so in the trash it went. lol, great idea... cept for cruise controll "MIGHT" work (The light turned on but we were too softcore to try it out on the street) Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Thats pretty cool. I need to do that with mine, what a difference it makes just by painting it. yeah, coloring and removal / clean up of electrical & vacuum mess these car had. But then I realize Its the same color as PPK... Darn... Quote Link to comment
Ryoskatekov Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 All right, Aside from working on cosmetics, Does anyone know a easy way to fix the side brakes? Can I just Pull the wires at the caliper side to give it tension and bolt it back in?I mean, The right rear IS in fact working so I'm pretty sure theres no need to fix the part where it Y's off. Quote Link to comment
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