ever heard of a 4-barrel in a 510?

[edakotaford]

is there anywhere to get a manifold for one? edelbrock or whatever... really any progressive 4-barrel. i've heard of a couple guys, but has anyone on here?

[phatdave]

I think Iv'e seen a Holley 380cfm on one?????

[Phlebmaster]

Here is one...from a 521. ;) It belongs to menemnthe666

 

[datsunfish]

I believe offenhauser made them. Hard to find but not impossible.

I think menemnthe666 is the forum name of a guy here who runs one.

[datzenmike]

is there anywhere to get a manifold for one? edelbrock or whatever... really any progressive 4-barrel. i've heard of a couple guys, but has anyone on here?

 

At 7,000 RPMs the L16 only uses just under 200CFM the L20B about 250 at the same revs. The Weber is good for about 280 CFM I believe which is more than enough. That's 7K RPMs not 2,500 to 3,500 that you drive around town at most of the time.

 

Two rules, never over cam or over carb your motor. A slightly larger carb will often give a slight improvement mostly because it is less restrictive than a smaller one. If bigger was better we all run Holley 1100 dual pumpers but we don't because it doesn't work that way. 200CFM through a 500CFM carb probably won't be enough to open the secondaries.

 

I believe that Holley does in fact make a 300 CFM four bbl carb for fours and small sixes. You would not want a progressive four barrel but a vacuum operated secondary. If you stomp on it, the combined throttle plate area will be like a fist sized hole in the intake, vacuum will drop to near zero and the motor will fall on it's face.

[Jester]

The smallest Holley 4bbl is a 390cfm

[datzenmike]

Then I stand corrected.

[freaky510]

i bought a l18 a few years back that had a down jetted 500cfm holley on it i didnt take the carb and manifold set up because he wanted 200 for i and i just wanted the car and motor but i ran it 1 time before i bought it and it was sick fast:eek: iam thinking or doing it with the motor iam building pretty easy to make a manifold i would like to try the offenhouser manifold if i could find 1

[Jester]

I believe most of the 2 bbl Ford carbs were 500cfm. At least on the FE390's and 360's.

[edakotaford]

hmm... well i dunno then i guess. i want stupid fast out of an L18. now. UHG. oh well i guess. i'll figure it out. either i'll find a 4 barrel and try it out. what's fuel injection like on an L-series? where should i look into that? i've got a million different ideas running through my head right now... sorry if i'm annoying all you guys.

[mnementh666]

Yep... it's mine. I put some of the details here: http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=3429 including part numbers.

 

I cannot recommend it for less than a stock L20b and preferably a "warmed-over" one.

 

Biggest issue I've run into: How to f'ing tune it.

I've jetted up the primary side, from 51 factory, to 57 currently (was 61). It seems about right, but I'm still playing. It finally dawned on me the other day that my secondaries are opening at roughly 3000-ish rpm, at greater than 5" vacuum (so basically while driving uphill on the freeway). In goes a higher secondary spring! :o Meanwhile, with the cam, I'm still sorting out the jetting. Also bear in mind, the 390cfm vac secondary Holley has a plate on the secondary, instead of jets. So if you want to tune the secondary, it'll be a bitch.

 

All in all, with the bigger main jets, and the weaker secondary spring, I was getting approx 22mpg on the freeway. Not great. I'm hoping with the smaller jets and less secondary it'll bump up the mileage a bit.

 

I'd recommend a AF meter, preferably wide-band, for tuning. I hope to get one before too much longer.

 

Offhand, Holley makes a 450cfm mech secondary 4bbl. It's cheaper, has jets on the secondary side, and easier to tune (no damn springs), but that really is a lot of carburetor. You'd really have to pay attention to the progression of right foot, and not bog the motor.

 

Honestly, at this point, I love the carb. It's different, you can buy parts for it left and f'ing right. But given what I know now, I'd almost rather have gone with a FI setup, using a Megasquirt. But L-series FI mani's are kinda hard to find.

[Z-train]

The problem isn't so much the carb as it is the manifold.They plain SUCK.Twin SU's would work better.But you'll be hunting for a manifold for awhile.

[ggzilla]

A 270 CFM Holley 5200 flows the same as a 193 CFM 4-bbl (per the Holley book). 4-bbl and 2-bbl are rated differently.

 

So a 390 CFM 4-bbl is about double what a Weber 32/36 or Holley 5200 or Hitachi DCH340 flows.

[edakotaford]

eff. i just want a fast car. or a bolt on fast engine. and not have to spend any money. the search continues. i'll let you know how it goes... haha. p.s. reguardless of cost, what kind of power gain would dual weber 40 or 45 dcoe's do on an L18?

[Bleach]

i just want a fast car... and not have to spend any money.

LOL! :lol: don't we all....

 

oh, and throw in good gas milage whie you're at it :mellow:

[datzenmike]

eff. i just want a fast car. or a bolt on fast engine. and not have to spend any money.

 

Um... you have to steal one.

 

You can have a fast car but it won't be cheap or have good mileage.

You can have a good mileage car but it won't be fast.

You can have a cheap car but it won't be fast.

[hang_510]

p.s. reguardless of cost, what kind of power gain would dual weber 40 or 45 dcoe's do on an L18?

none! till ya put a rising sun on the hood :fu:

 

 

 

w/o anything else, on a stock motor...maybe 15hp+ ???

[Bleach]

I would agree. +15hp above 5000 rpm, minus 20 foot pounds of torque below 4500 rpm

[racerx]

Too much carb for our L16-L20, plain and simple. Why would one get a 4 bbl and re-jet it then try to find a manifold..don't make sense...at any rate, I've seen a lot of Mazda engines with 4 bbls..but then again rotary engines like gas more than our engines..

[racerx]

Putting EFi on our L series engine will not improve HP much..it is the insides that trully counts, like cam, crank, bigger pistons, heads (balance, knife edge) and so on...our engines were not meant for performance out of the box..they were made to save gas back in the 70's. Even if you did a lot of mods with our L-series engines = money, money and mo money, you will still not get the HP you want. Which comes back to th question? how much HP do you want, are trying to do 10 seconds 1/4 mile, what are you trying to do...because if you put a 4 bbl in our cars and it's stock form, it;s like trying kill a fly with a hammer and all you need is a newspaper.

 

Perhaps this write up on Dimequarterly can explain it better:

 

http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/

[racerx]

Oops..click on the "ENGINE" page, left side of dimequareterly

[racerx]

eff. i just want a fast car. or a bolt on fast engine. and not have to spend any money. the search continues. i'll let you know how it goes... haha. p.s. reguardless of cost, what kind of power gain would dual weber 40 or 45 dcoe's do on an L18?

 

forgot to add that it will cost you money, no matter what you do..brand new 32/36 weber, adapter, headers, exhaust, muffler will cost about $800..gain maybe about 10 -15 hp so that's like $53 bucks per "1" HP..that's why most people will dump their L series for a KA or SR motor.., either way by saying "and not to have to spend any money" is unrelistic.

[fiveNdime]

Um... you have to steal one.

 

You can have a fast car but it won't be cheap or have good mileage.

You can have a good mileage car but it won't be fast.

You can have a cheap car but it won't be fast.

 

Hey Mike I disagree with a car thats fast cant have good mileage. My dads car is stupid fast and pulls sweet mileage out of it, and thats driving it at a good pace most of the time. Its a KA powerd car, but not stock.

 

P.S. Having a fast dime will cost you money....remember fast always means that you need better brakes at the least....and if you want to use that power you will need to do suspension upgrades....more money...never ending story!

[datsunfish]

The L18 has pretty good pep with a big port big valve head. I ran a w58 on a L18 with ported mani,weber dfav and header and it would spin crazy high and go like hell but got like 19 mpg. L20b had better power all around and about 26 mpg. I would say puting in a nice L20b with a weber 32/36 is always the easiest way to get noticeable power gain in an old datto. Start off easy and cheap or shell out the $$.

[edakotaford]

yeah, ya'll are probably right. good thing i got lucky. i got the car with good suspension, and cut280zx struts/brakes. car stops good and don't sway too much. guess i'm just going to work on my engine. if only i hadn't sold my blown KA for 30 bucks...