fizrat Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 The headlamp switch on my '79 620 RV just bit the dust and I'm having trouble finding a new one. It's mounted on the dash, and pulls out in two settings to turn on. There is a '78 510 being parted out on the local craigslist. Anyone out there know if this has the same switch? It's buried in the back 40 of this guy's place, and he didn't want to go out and check, and I don't want to make the trip out for naught. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 I have one - PM me Quote Link to comment
Jayden71 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 How bout a pic of that 620 RV??? Yes? Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 The 510 one will be on the column on the turn signal switch like a newer type car so imma think no. Quote Link to comment
fizrat Posted December 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Haha, yeah, I keep meaning to put up pictures. Fair exchange for information, I suppose. I've been working on it frantically to get it ready for a road trip in a couple days, so taking pictures hasn't been a top priority. But here's one my wife took when I was working on the rear brakes. Having trouble with getting images on the forum, but here's a link anyway http://www.flickr.com/photos/53954929@N07/8281625121/ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 The '79 620 is compatible with all 620s back to '74. You could use one from an earlier 610/710, B-210 but the connector won't match. I've taken these apart before and cleaned and greased them. Just carefully bend back the tabs and it will come apart. Sandpaper the contacts and use dielectric grease. You don't want to bent the tabs too many times or they break off. Does the '79 Camper have dual tires? If so, were they added by the camper conversion company? I'm betting not and only the 720 got them. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 looks like no back tires? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Yup. I think there was a Cab/Chassis 620 option from '76. These were used to make camper trucks or work trucks with custom HD boxes on the back. I think they only had single tires back then. Quote Link to comment
fizrat Posted December 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Hm, well, scratch that - looks like it wasn't the switch after all. After removing it and checking it with the multimeter, it looks to be working fine. I just assumed it was the switch at fault because previously you kind of had to jiggle the switch to get it to work. And then this morning the jiggling just didn't do it. So maybe a loose connection somewhere else... not really sure. I did notice that also the high beams don't work now... and if I recall correctly they did work even when the headlights were off. The running/parking lights work. So maybe something further down the line... going to do some searching now. Not too sure on the manufacturing history on this thing... whether Nissan made them or if it was converted or what. Right now it is single tires in the back. It sure would feel a lot safer with the duallies, though. The fellow I bought it from gave me an extra pair of tires that are supposed to be for the dual rears, but there was no adapter or way to mount them. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Connect the switch back up. Maybe it will work good after unplugging then re-plugging. You can easily test this idea without fitting it back into the dash. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Did you clean the fusebox yet? Always step #1 when chasing electrical gremlins. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Hm, well, scratch that - looks like it wasn't the switch after all. After removing it and checking it with the multimeter, it looks to be working fine. I just assumed it was the switch at fault because previously you kind of had to jiggle the switch to get it to work. And then this morning the jiggling just didn't do it. So maybe a loose connection somewhere else... not really sure. I did notice that also the high beams don't work now... and if I recall correctly they did work even when the headlights were off. The running/parking lights work. So maybe something further down the line... going to do some searching now. Try the multimeter and wiggle the switch. See if the connection changes. Bet It does. I do see how the fuse box is near and below the light switch so maybe the giggling was affecting a fuse??? Quote Link to comment
fizrat Posted December 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Well, that was dumb. Blown fuse, is all. The wiring on this thing is a mess, and I think a short on some random loose wires probably blew it... time to clean things up a bit. Quote Link to comment
NICKLE&DIME Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Check for a loose ground Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 sometimes the fuses just break inside due to vibration. Datsun wiring is fine. most time its water corrossion Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 When you have electrical issues like this, you need to follow the whole circuit all the way from the positive battery terminal, back to the negative battery terminal. That includes the wire, and all connectors in the wiring harness. The headlight wiring could all be stock Datsun, or it might have been modified some to accommodate the motor home conversion. Check for voltage at the wire supplying the headlight switch. There is probably two wires, with two different fuses doing this. One is the headlight circuit, the other is the parking/marker light circuit. Check for voltage with the lights on. If you have a bad connection somewhere between the headlight switch, and the battery, there is a possibility you will get voltage with the lights off, but not on. Again, check the voltage coming out of the headlight switch, with the lights on, and off. if the voltage drops to close to zero when you turn the headlights on, you may have problems with the switch. Here is a page that gets more into depth about checking electrical system problems. http://www.vernco.com/Sparks/id606.htm Quote Link to comment
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