jrock4224 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 so here's the deal got some beebani brackets, some hardbody calipersand lines( cut the hard line so i got the nut and everything ....some passport/rodeo rotors...79 280zx m/c ...wilwood single line proportioning valve.. i got a few simple questions ....is it best to modify a clutch master cylinder pushrod from a 510 to work with the 280 zx master or mod the stock one off the 521...and is there a thread outlining the length or is it a trial and error thing... secondly ...the master is metric....i believe the brake calipers and lines are sae....should i just convert everything to sae or stick with how it is and use adapters....the hydralic shop next floor looked at me like i am a wierdo when i asked for adapters for sae to metric as i have read about.. ...is it safe to pull the rear line from the t on the fire wall.... cap the t and bring a new line over along with install my porp valve there ? i read about part from other trucks being used for the t ....but there again im trying to fix my blue lake blown up dragging brakes ...i just want simple.... I also have read varying faqs about residual valves....im leaning towards using everything the way i stated above...started this project this weekend ina hurry and realized theres more than just throwing the calipers and master in that hasnt been covered in the threads i read...in fact i spent the rest of last night reading every 521 disc thread i could and all i did was confuse myself more...jesus the work is only gonna take about 2- hours but this research went on forever...i wasnt gonna run a prop valve but aftre reading somthings i feel its a safe addiition and would rather now then later down the road.... really the two biggest things i am concerned with now is the push rod and the thread compatibility of my flair nuts... thanks in adavence and yes i used the search funciton and read a ton f shit about brakes but neither of these were really covered... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 The Hardbody calipers and lines should be metric? aren't they? With the master and clutch peddle installed, the rod should be long enough to fit in the end against the piston cup with the adjustment end long or short enough to be able to provide several mm (or 1/16") of free play adjustment. I think plugging the TEE and connecting the rear line to the front of the master should work. I wouldn't worry about a proportioning valve yet. Drive it first. If the rears lock up prematurely then maybe a $50 Willwood valve. Hey, you know I put a tandem master on my '71 521 back in the '70!!! I forget why, maybe it went bad. I had an old '68 510 back then and a buddy had a wrecked '77 620 and they had dual masters so maybe off one of them? My problem was the flair on the 521 lines didn't match the master. I hand filed them down and it worked! Connected the master front outlet (rear) to the rear line (probably at the tee) but don't remember how I blocked the open end off. Maybe I eliminated the tee? Anyway it ran just fine... didn't know about ft/rear bias then so just as well. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 this ought to help for the pushrod.. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30419-master-cyl-upgrade-push-rod-build-mklotz70/ Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 The Hardbody calipers and lines should be metric? aren't they? They are, but I am fairly certain the 521 has SAE fittings. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 so is the truck sae then .......i thought i remember in one of the threads i read that there was a conflict....gonna use the 79 280 zx master ... got a stock pile of them thank u klotz thats exactly what i been searching for, even using google ratsun .net trick i couldnt find the info...i think i will just make a new set of lines that go across the firewall...un less some one can enlightenme on the adapters....cause isnt the line size different from metric to sae ? i was told that and never given a difinitive answer isf using a smaller metric line on a sae flare nut would work or not Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 thanks redeye u beat me? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 521 truck stock brake line flare nuts, (clutch too) are SAE 3/8-24, with 3/16 lines. The key word in that statement is"stock". It is not impossible somewhere a brake part may have been changed with 620 parts, that are Metric. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Yep...the truck's stock lines are SAE. Took me forever, but I finally found my pic of the adapter. I get these at Parkrose Hardware, but I think is a True Value. And the metric and SAE lines are both 3/16" tubing. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 found those fittings at napa....funny thing the gu there didnt even know what they were...i snatched up extras...heres my push rod with a 8 mm bolt and a clutch master clevis....seems short but it was made for my 15/16 master as per mklotz......so how did i do klotz does it look like it will work.... i bought a wil wood prop valve but it uses 1/8 27 flare while the rest of my system uses 3/8 24 i assume i will have to source some type of adapter for that too .... some days i love having a hydralic store in the samebuilding as me looks like i solved the problem on my own.... 1/8 27 to number three adapter...assuming that the prop valve is really a 1/8 27 like listed... http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649 im a idiot after closer inspection of what i bought, i now see it is included in the kit.... off to the forslae thread to list my fittings ....just kidding i save everything i buy extra of for inventory...when i go to ace for bolts my wfes always lke i thout u needed a bolt not ten ....meah future considerations Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 Looks good. :) Your clevis may be longer than the ones I used. Nice part is, it's just a bolt.....easy enough to make another :) The ones I did for the 411's were a good bit longer. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 so your saying there no real uniform length for these, for 521, 411 or 510 when using a differnet master cylinder... i just saw in yor thread how 120 mm seemed to be the length u were shooting for ...i know it was a 411 thread but i figured they must be close in length to each other... Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 The thread link I posted about is all truck info. I just went and double checked the thread. The 411 stuff is in that brake upgrade thread. I think it used a 120mm bolt, but you're looking for 120mm total and the bolt length will vary a bit depending on which clevis you have. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 I thought the pm went through when I couldn't post to here, but it didn't make it either. Took these today. Both the M8 and M10 are 1.25 threads. I used a clevis from the clutch on one of the trucks. I think the M10 clevis came from a later truck with power brakes. I didn't need the rod, just the clevis. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 so the clevis was perfect length with my 100 mm push rod build.....it sits perfect in there...i think the over length with my datsun 510 clutch clevis was 127mm to the cener of the pin on the clevis...heres some pics so far ... we broke the double flare die so frank loaned us his this morning ....i was busy standing n the rain at 6am on the free way with someone who just had to have a electric fule pump on there su's...side note never run out of gas will burn up your pump...to the oics... OK SO HERES WHAT I DONT LIKE.... I TOOK THE 97 PATHFINDER CALIPERS AND LINES AND EVEN USED THE METRIC NUT OF THE PATHFINDER ON MY 521...ALL WAS SIMPLE ALTHOUGH NOW THE LINES THE WAY THE PRE BENT ENDS ALMOST TOUCH ON TURN AND THE RUBBER HOSE DEFINATELY RUBV..THAT SCARES ME...HERS A PIC OF TWHAT I MEAN NOW HERE'S WHAT I AM WONDERING...oops can i pull the end off the caliper and clock it on the caliper 90 degrees different.... the line and caliper have a tit on the line and a recess in the caliper that lock it in place......im worried that if i clock the line differently which works fine it might loosen up through the forces applied to the line through normal turning....if that makes sense....so opinions please is it safe o r should i look for another solution... my other was to redrill the tab the line go's through on the truck and moving closer to the truck and shaving off the end on. the bracket to gain room...i wanna avoid spending any more money...like lines .... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 If you can clock it so that the tit locks up in the direction the bolt will want to turn to loosen, you should be fine. You could also get a tabbed lock washer to bend over and lock the bolt in place. Last resort would be to drill the bolt head and safety wire it. Can you rotate the fitting at the frame to get more clearance? Maybe bend the steel tube portion of the line a bit to make sure there is no contact? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 yeah i wanna use the factory bracket where the tab mounts to the frame but if i move it theres no issue with clearance....i see what u mean clocking so the forces would tighten and not loosen the banjo......i might try the clocking and see how i like it but consider moving the thing asa back ... anyone got a photo of the rear pad assembly for a 521 i wanna make sure i put it together right... i think it was asssembled wrong last time so that may have been causin my issue... Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 You might be able to bend the frame tab down a bit to change the angle. What does the end at the caliper look like? If it matches the 720 hose, I'd change to that one. I think I've gotten them on Rockauto for about $8ea? I know you said you don't want to buy hoses, but the ones you have kinda suck. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 those hoses dont look to good all cramped up like that. Ps that blu 510 looks bad ass!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 its a banjo bolt fitting .... went next store to the hydralic shop they said to just bend one of the hard lines a little.... bending the tab down isn't a bad idea....they can build me new lines but they have to order the ends and i dont wanna drop a c note on a some lines...... still no pics of rear drum assembly for 521....anyone... thanks hainz ... hans car is actually getting there ... he ran the harness and is in the process of rewrapping it... 1 Quote Link to comment
DatWifey Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 Like I said earlier, I can try to find more photos with the springs when I get home if you don't get anything more in here. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 thanks dat...... ok ratsuners drum question .... theres two springs on the lower section of the drum? brody and jen have a second smaller one on there pads hat i didnt have...any insight on the need or purpose of this spring......i already fixed the spreader bar that was installed 180 out originally.....its the small spring u onl y see one half on the bottom side Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 Like I said earlier, I can try to find more photos with the springs when I get home if you don't get anything more in here. in this pic Quote Link to comment
DatWifey Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 Ok, here are a few more that I found in our 521 photo folder. It almost looks like it just backs up the larger spring that's on the bottom as well. And now I'm wondering why the hell you only see half of it in that pic I posted before.... <_< Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 in the last three pics of the tear down the yellow spring and mounting parts are different ......mine are like your rear with hook style springs instead of interlocking ...and the mounting holes are the same .......man im confused now .....obviously i am missing that lower sprimg that is redundant but its could the others be the front i really didnt pay attention to when i yarded the front apart i just pulled the hub and the four biolts and took it off and tossed it on the floor causing pads and springs to go boom Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 oh, the top two are the front i see the dust cap now.....so thats wierd how i am missin the lower spring he spring kit was special order ....might have to rob some off the frame at the shop Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.