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por15 vs. zerorust


  

4 members have voted

  1. 1. which is better

    • por15
      1
    • zero rust
      1
    • other
      2


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I've used lots of zero rust... i lick it! I think its like anything... do a good cleaning job and apply it well and it will be fine. Fwiw i sprayed it on the underbody with an old school high volume spray gun .. i thinned it about 20%.

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I've used por15 on my 810 with great results. This stuff will cover rust that has been brushed clean of loose flakes. It seals in the remaining rust with a very hard epoxy like coating. Maybe zero rust does the same .... I don't know as I've never used it.

 

I used a cheap paint brush bought at H F. Clean out a bit w/ acetone and use again with por15.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The makers of POR-15 approves the use with fiberglassing. I recently used it on rust stopping angd hole plugging on my 620 floor pan. One coat of por followed by two coats of Bi-directional medium weight glass with por between each coat of glass. Crawled under the chassis and brushed on a coat of por on the bottom also. It dried rock hard in one day. The largest hole was quarter size. Will cover with carpeting, so UV is not an issue. DO NOT use fiberglass on floor pans without por. In time it'll start to continue rusting.

 

Can one do this process with ZERO RUST ? I do not know.

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Por 15 is better then zerorust I have used both.

 

I wouldnt bother comparing ingredients por is a proprietary mixture. Zerorust will do the same thing it just wont hold up as well or as long. All things being equal that is. You also use more zero rust to cover the same area as por. To me it seemed like in the harshest of areas por needed a max of 2 coats to hold up well but doing 2 with the zero rust there was pin sized rust marks a few months down the line, which is what you get doing 1 coat of por. So the savings arent as great as they seem.

 

I continue to swear by por but I dont buy gallons anymore because by the time I get to the bottom of it the tops is all gross and half it is coagulated. The can also gets mangled up. It's more expensive but I buy in smaller containers on a per job basis. In the long run it seems to be more cost effective and if not at the least its less annoying.

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This is my opinion. It might be based on some fact, but I really do not know.

I believe you need to get rid of all the rust you can. Not "convert" it, not cover it. This is why.

Rust is caused by an electrolytic reaction. You may recall school chemistry experiments where you put two different metals in an electrolyte, and made a battery.

Steel, and rusted steel can be the two different metals, and if the rust is there, it just needs some moisture to start the reaction again. Rust that exists, will feed itself.

 

Por 15, Zero Rust, rust "encapsulators" work by preventing water from reaching the rust. So does paint.

I believe you are better off by removing the rust, properly treating the good metal, and painting with a good epoxy primer.

 

If you really want to "geek out" on rust, read this.

http://wwwchem.uwimona.edu.jm:1104/courses/iron.html

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Dan-you have it partly right.POR works by preventing OXYGEN from getting to the rust.Take away oxygen-the rust process stops.Moisture actually cures POR 15.Yes,the best way is to remove rust itself.However in certain situations(pick-up beds come to mind) where this is not financially possible or even possible period.

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