DREWSDIME Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I am wondering what type of oil and weight everyone is using in 2.4 720? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 My L20B is always Valvoline 20w-50 with a Napa Gold. Winters coming up so I'm not sure what I'll use. Probably still 20W-50. Our winters only hit about 20 degrees at the lowest point and I always warm my truck up before driving. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 dello 15/40 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 dello 15/40 Diesel oil? Quote Link to comment
DREWSDIME Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 166,000 miles gas 2.4 engine. High mileage oil or is it crap? Somebody with a 720? Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 i always use 20 /50 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I use DELO 15/40 in my diesels, everything else I try to use 20/50. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Yup, diesel oils have still have high levels of ZDDP in them lacking or reduced in gas engine oils. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 i use the valvoline racing oil but oil changes need to be more frequent with that stuff. anything with zinc is what your looking for. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 15w40 Shell Rotella? I forget. The guy at NAPA said it was for flat tappet cams. 1 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 No diesel oils in this list. I personally use Valvoline VR1 10w30 I have in the past used Dello 400 (15w40) (Synthetic) AMSOIL Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oils Links provided by Corvette Forum vendor C66 Racing LLC (PM 'Subdriver') Grades: 10w40 (AMO), 20w50 (ARO) Claim: "ideal for high-mileage vehicles, vehicles with flat-tappet cams and high-stress vehicles subject to hot temperatures, heavy hauling, trailer pulling or off-road use." Verification: ~1265 PPM: http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20Tappet.pdf (Synthetic) AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil Links provided by Corvette Forum Vendor C66 Racing LLC (PM 'Subdriver') Grades: 10w30 (ZRT), 20w50 (ZRF) Claim: "AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is formulated with high levels of ZDDP to protect flat-tappet cams, lifters, rockers and other areas susceptible to wear. Its high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation provides the extra wear protection these critical splash-lubricated components require." Verification: ~ 1320 PPM: http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20Tappet.pdf (Semi-Synthetic) Brad Penn Grades: 0W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 , 15W-40, 20W-50 Claim: In addition to our unique base oil cut, increased concentration of “zinc” (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate a.k.a. ZDDP) provides outstanding anti-wear/anti-scuffing protection for engines employing either ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams. BRAD PENN® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils have been evaluated by a number of premiere camshaft manufacturers with tremendous success. Many are now recommending our Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils to provide outstanding protection for their ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams. Verification: http://www.penngrade1.com/Zinc.aspx (Synthetic) Castrol EDGE 5W-50 Grades: 5W50 Claim: "Today's engines are engineering differently and face different demands than those of yesteryear. Now classic car owners who are particular about what they put into their vintage vehicles can receive modern protection from a higher zinc formula specially engineered for classic engines." Verification: Claims compatability with API SJ & SL. (Dino) Collector's Choice Motor Oil Grades: 20W50 Claim: "Today's engines are engineering differently and face different demands than those of yesteryear. Now classic car owners who are particular about what they put into their vintage vehicles can receive modern protection from a higher zinc formula specially engineered for classic engines." Verification: 2000 PPM claimed, which is significantly more than required for even extreme cams. http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/pdf/220-810_220-815_INST.pdf (Synthetic) CompCams Muscle Car & Street Rod Oil Grades: 10W30, 15W50 Claim: "optimum amounts of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous) provide unmatched anti-wear properties. available in both 10W30 and 15W50 formulas and is perfect for late model or classic engines with flat tappet valve trains." Verification: NONE CompCams Tech Line refused to provide any details on ZDDP levels and the MSDS provides no details. The tech would go so far as to say it has "more than" 1,400 PPM ZDDP. (Synthetc & Dino) Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oil Grades: 10W30, 15W50 in both conventional (HR-1/HR-2) and synthetic (HR-3/HR-4). Claim: Higher levels of Zinc (ZDP) than regular passenger car oils. Delivers proper anti-wear protection for older style push-rod and flat-tappet engines. Verification: ~1270 PPM ZDDP http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/datasheets/HRS10W-30DataSheet.doc (Dino) Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Hi-Performance Oil Grades: 10W30, 10W40, 20W50 Claim: "Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil is manufactured with the highest quality paraffinic base oils and is fortified with a unique additive package containing high levels of zinc, molybdenum and phosphorus, which provides a tougher, thicker additive film for maximum protection even under the most severe conditions. It lowers oil temperatures, extends oil life and minimizes metal fatigue. It improves the film strength between the cylinder wall and piston rings and slows oil burning and improves pressure in worn engines. It has good cold temperature properties and stands up to high operating temperatures. It is compatible with methanol and all racing fuels, as well as with synthetic and non-synthetic oils. Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil SAE 10W-40 is for muscle, showroom, classic and trophy cars without catalytic converters. It can be used in racing applications. Not recommended for passenger car use." Verification: ~2100 PPM ZDDP claimed. This is higher than what is typically recommended (1,000 - 1,400). (Synthetic) Mobile 1 15W-50 Grades: 15W50 Claim: "Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles." Verification: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&drKey=185&loc=http%3A%2F %2Fforums.corvetteforum.com%2Fc3-tech-performance%2F2484100-list-of-flat-tappet-oils-5.html%23post1578102976&v=1&libid=131040 3011947&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mobil.com%2 Fusa-english%2Fmotoroil%2Ffiles%2Fmobil_1_pro duct_guide.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Femail03. secureserver.net%2Fwebmail.php%3Flogin%3 D1&title=List%20of%20Flat-Tappet%20Oils%20-%20Page%205%20-%20Corvette%20Forum%23post1578102976&txt =http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mobil.com%2Fusa-english%2Fmotoroil%2Ffiles%2Fmobil_1_pro duct_guide.pdf It still remains unclear to me how Mobile 1 can claim API SM/SN compliance when the oil is exempt by grade and far exceeds the maximum ppm ZDDP allowed. (Synthetic) Red Line Synthetic Motor Oil I made the decision to remove Red Line oils from the list as they make no claims regarding flat-tappet cam support on their website and I'm awaiting confirmation from them via email regarding their ZDDP levels. (Synthetic) Royal Purple RP Grades: 10W40, 15W40, 20W50 Claim: "For stock or mildly modified flat tappet valve trains (<.525” lift), we recommend our SAE 10W40, 15W40 or 20W50 engine oils." Verification: NONE (Synthetic) Royal Purple HPS High Performance Street Motor Oil Grades: 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50. Claim: It is fortified with a high level of zinc/phosphorus anti-wear additive... Protects valve trains using roller or flat tappet lifters requiring added protection due to high lift/ high ramp rate camshafts Verification: NONE (Synthetic) Royal Purple XPR Grades:0W10, 5W20, 5W30, 10W40, 20W50 Claim: "In applications with flat tappet valve trains using high-lift cams and/or high RPM applications, we strongly recommend upgrading to our XPR line of engine oils as these have an even greater concentration of ZDDP providing excellent protection with the higher spring pressures." Verification:NONE (Dino) Valvoline VR1 Grades: 20W50, 10W30 Claim: "High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications." Verification: 1300 - 1400 PPM ZDDP http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf NOTE that there are some concerns with VR1 due to inconsistent test results. Additionally, racing oils are not intended for extended (3,000+ mile) change intervals nor start-and-stop cycles. (Dino) Valvoline Specialty Racing Oil ("Not Street Legal") Grades: 20W50 Claim: "High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications." Verification: 1300 - 1400 PPM ZDDP http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Specialty_Synthetic_Racing_Oils.pdfAdditionally, racing oils are not intended for extended (3,000+ mile) change intervals. (Synthetic) Valvoline Roush Full Synthetic Grades: 5W30, 5W50, 10W30, 10W40 Claim: "Provide longer lasting zinc/phosphorus anti-wear." Verification: NONE (Synthetic) Valvoline Racing Synthetic Grades: 20W50, 10W30 Claim: "High zinc/phosphorus for extreme anti-wear, including flat tappets." Verification: NONE. Additionally, racing oils are not intended for extended (3,000+ mile) change intervals. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Synthetic is too expensive. It also leaks out of old rear and front seals on older motors.. Got any regular $4-$5 oils Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 dello 15/40 diesel oil ftw my turbo cars love it my 253000 mile z24 loves it and runs awesome. plus it is one of the few oils with zdp in it still Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Synthetic is too expensive. It also leaks out of old rear and front seals on older motors.. Got any regular $4-$5 oils Maybe leaks... The Valvoline VR1 I use is not synthetic. Synthetic too expensive? I picked up 5 quarts of Napa brand for $3.79/qt... There is no such thing as regular oil that has higher ZDDP levels. All name brand oils have to conform to certain API levels, one of those is reduced ZDDP levels. Diesel oils are starting to fall that direction. As far as detergents in diesel oils, well besides cleaning well, dont actually seem harmful, as in they dont seem to counteract any other parts of the oil. Quote Link to comment
SHORTDOG Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Hey Jeff, I just run Valvoline 5/30W and add in a full quart of Lucas oil additive and it works great for my truck and it's got 167K on it. You got to remember that we have a whole different climate down here in So. Cal. where it is usually hotter than up north but i have used Rotella on an older Cadillac i had and that does work wonders too! That Caddy started giving me a slight lifter niose at start up but the Rotella knocked that right out. I have also used straight 30W non detergent with success but that is harder to find these days...I think NAPA always seem to have a few bottles in stock though. Quote Link to comment
DREWSDIME Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Hey Jeff, I just run Valvoline 5/30W and add in a full quart of Lucas oil additive and it works great for my truck and it's got 167K on it. You got to remember that we have a whole different climate down here in So. Cal. where it is usually hotter than up north but i have used Rotella on an older Cadillac i had and that does work wonders too! That Caddy started giving me a slight lifter niose at start up but the Rotella knocked that right out. I have also used straight 30W non detergent with success but that is harder to find these days...I think NAPA always seem to have a few bottles in stock though. Side note I got Nissan oil filter from Metro Nissan in Montclair for $7.15 had it in stock, I paid more last time I bought one from Fontana Nissan. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Hey Jeff, I just run Valvoline 5/30W and add in a full quart of Lucas oil additive and it works great for my truck and it's got 167K on it. In a Datsun???? I would never run below 10w ever and that only in the winter. 5w is way too thin for these motors. Nissan only recommends 5W30 to about 60F. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Synthetic too expensive? I picked up 5 quarts of Napa brand for $3.79/qt... Diesel oils are starting to fall that direction. As far as detergents in diesel oils, well besides cleaning well, dont actually seem harmful, as in they dont seem to counteract any other parts of the oil. Synthetics are $8-$10 a liter here. There are some 'semi synthetics' but just a blend with reg oil in them and not much savings on then either. Diesel oils are highly detergent to hold all the carbon produced by diesel motors in suspension so it will drain out on changes instead of plating to the insides of the block and head surfaces. If used on a gas motor that is old it could remove the carbon around the rings that help seal compression and control oil from getting past into the combustion chamber. On a motor in good clean condition this shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment
DREWSDIME Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Well I just put some 5/30 W but it does get pretty hot here. So I should change to 10/40 or 20/50? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 20w20, 20w40 or 20w50 20w20 is good down to freezing. 20w50 for constant temps above 100F. Probably 20W40 for all around use. Quote Link to comment
Str8_69 Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Well I just put some 5/30 W but it does get pretty hot here. So I should change to 10/40 or 20/50? Yes! Hotter temps = heavier oil. 10/40 winter, 20/50 summer. Quote Link to comment
SHORTDOG Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 I put in 5/30W but with the Lucas additive in it should thicken the oil to about 10/30W right? or wrong? Also, if 5/30W is not right for these motors, then why does the factory oil cap say 5/30W? :confused: Quote Link to comment
DREWSDIME Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Yes I added that Lucas additive too, it is very thick. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 I'm not a fan of additives.... the oil you choose should be able to do the job itself. Any one remember STP? Looked like honey? So thick/sticky it held dirty oil to every engine part and almost impossible to drain it all out. Quote Link to comment
SHORTDOG Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Lucas is in no way STP....that's for sure. Lucas makes a great product....ask anyone who has used it. I use their fuel treatment as well, it works great! Quote Link to comment
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