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"The Rat Coupe" a 710 build


Bob3

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I did some work on the rear end. I don't have (or like) the stock bumpers. So I made some cover plates for the oem mounting holes. I put rubber covers over the pinch weld flanges and mounted the license plate. I still need to get the damn thing running.

 

Here some pics I just took outside today. Oh - and the things hanging under the front are the start of my air dam.

 

11-23-124.jpg

 

11-23-123.jpg

 

11-23-121.jpg

 

11-23-122.jpg

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Holy crap those are nice seats! and a cool car. It reminds me of a little Chevy Chevelle. With a solid axle I say a nice little 302 V8 and some nice fat back tires would really piss off some muscle car guys!

 

I saw a really nice clean F10 in the junkyard, makes me wish I could have bought it...

 

Lookin' good

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I got a question about the size tires I bought for this project. They are 195/60/14 Nankang XR611. I bought them from discount tire direct. It is a good source and FREE shipping! All four shipped to my house for $252.00

 

http://www.discountt...195&ar=60&rd=14

 

And if you have a local discount tire/americas tire, they honor the discount tire direct pricing, but then the install price changes. I got 4 Falken 512's 195/50/15 for under $350 installed, which was $90 cheaper than there stores pricing.

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Okay - so I still can't get it to run. It kinda runs and backfires through the carb. I removed the dist and found this. This is at TDC #1. I see that it is not at 11:30. Is this off enough to make it not run? Do I need to pull the oil pump and re-clock the dist drive shaft? Can I do it in the car?

 

Thanks!

 

mydisttiming11-26-122.jpg

 

mydisttiming11-26-121.jpg

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Wait I thought you set it to 11:58. For real I'm not trying to be funny. If you drop the pump a out 2-3 inches you can turn the shaft. But you could leave the bolt out of the dizzy and move it till it runs to figure out such way your out.

 

Not a lot of oil will come from the pump if you don't tip it, 1/4 cup loss or so is all. But the gasket tends to leek after it gets covered in oil and bolted back on.

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The shaft will twist on the way out or in, it had a gear on it that drives off the crank.

So it spins 15* or so.

Now that the dizzy is out, check dwell and gap if points, install it how it was but leave the bolt out. Advance it till it runs, or retard it. Then put it to tdc and mark where #1 is on the dizzy. Move the shaft to where the dizzy bolt sits about center of the bracket while at tdc #1

 

I re read that, not a great writer hope it makes sense lol

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That looks off a tooth to me. I always set mine to be inline with the holes. A tooth off advanced is what I would say, and would explain the backfire through carb.

 

For reference, this is how my L16 was running, but this is 180 degrees off, which simply makes you swap your wires. But see what I mean about lining up the holes?

 

SNC11124.JPG

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