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project smurfet 1971 521 datsun sr20det


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Good news, yesterday I got my $15,000 overnight parts from Japan -_- ha ha ha ha! I got all of the parts in so I can start building the head. This afternoon I called Enjuku Racing and ordered the Tomei 2.2 stroker kit. I talked to a guy at Tomei USA earlier in the week who told me that they had one left in Japan. Hopefully it hasn't sold yet so I can get it sooner. Anyway, I am doing the whole photo bucket thing so I can start uploading/linking photos of the truck and the work I've been doing.

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Good news, yesterday I got my $15,000 overnight parts from Japan :sleep: ha ha ha ha! I got all of the parts in so I can start building the head. This afternoon I called Enjuku Racing and ordered the Tomei 2.2 stroker kit. I talked to a guy at Tomei USA earlier in the week who told me that they had one left in Japan. Hopefully it hasn't sold yet so I can get it sooner. Anyway, I am doing the whole photo bucket thing so I can start uploading/linking photos of the truck and the work I've been doing.

 

I would use something else other than photolame before you get to many photos in there, their format blows, and they don't care about your feedback.

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I would use something else other than photolame before you get to many photos in there, their format blows, and they don't care about your feedback.

 

What would you suggest then?

 

Update: This past weekend I did a lot of sanding. I took care of the driver's side of the interior. I sanded and sanded and sanded until I got to bare metal which really sucked and I'm so sore now because either I was doing it the dumb way (electric detail sander and man power) or I'm just that out of shape or both. The sanded areas were covered in black primer to "protect and seal." I don't really care how it looks because it is going to be covered up anyway. For the interior I am going to cover most of it with dynamat and custom make a carpeted interior. A nice little update to make it comfortable for it's inagural cross country road trip. In recent discovery the transmission is barely attached to the truck. While inside the cab I tried shifting from 1st to 5th and the entire thing twisted. Then I got under the truck and tried spinning the rear wheel and the tranny housing spun as well. The first look I had at the mount about a month ago it seemed to be pretty stable but I can only assume it was because the motor was still connected to it as well. Now I'm going to have to take a closer look at the bodge job thats been done and figure out a way to mount it considerably better. Even if the motor would be stock that would worry me. Aside from that the driveshafts (yes, shafts) are going to be replaced by a single unit that will have to be fabbed. The deeper into this truck I get the more I wish I had the skill and resources to fabricate what I need myself but that just isn't a possibility right now. Round 3 of parts ordering will happen soon: fuel pump, lines, filter, pressure regulator, rail (maybe), injectors, oil filter relocator kit and some sanity for taking this all on. Until text time.... If anyone has any suggestions or real world insight please advise!

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Last night I went up to the shop to pick up the cylinder head to take it back to my place. The problem is that I was the brilliant one who thought it would be a good idea to put it in a backpack and carry it down on my motorcycle. The good thing is that I made it. It reminded me of the days I was in the Marines as a radio operator. Anyway, I'm taking the head to get a 3 angle valve job with port and polish tomorrow. If i'm lucky it will be finished about the time that the block is done at Darton and the stroker kit comes in. I still need to order the main and con rod bearings, studs and oil pan before I can put it all together.

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Head is at Speed Specialties in San Diego. I had a nice conversation with the Owner Larry Jr. He explained every part of the process, gave his recommondaiton and didn't upsale anything which was a big surprise to me. Looks like everyone is trying to get their rides ready for the summer because every machine shop or performance shop I go to have at least a 2 week turnaround time. At least that gives me time to take care of the smaller details. Powder coating this Sunday, some time over the weekend I'll be going to the junkyards to see if I can snag some parts that I'll be needing. Mainly the hood latch and release cable. The guy I bought the truck from had mounted the intercooler behind the grill and subsequently had to take out the latch. I am going to mount the intercooler lower in the engine bay and use the area behind the grill for an oil cooler setup. It'll allow the hood to be close as normal which I like because hood pins do not appeal to me. Until next time.....

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Kudos on the build sir! you seem to have a plan in mind for the engine....but as a person who has owned, built and raced lots of sr's, I ask, why are you spending all this cash to do what the stock engine will do? the engines are good up to 400hp on the stock internals and a very good tune. it would seem the that the time, money and effort be spent on getting the truck to stop and turn with the stock SR power first. Nothing wrong with what you're doing....quite impressive actually....just wondering and eager to see the finished product.

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Kudos on the build sir! you seem to have a plan in mind for the engine....but as a person who has owned, built and raced lots of sr's, I ask, why are you spending all this cash to to what the stock engine will do? the engines are good up to 400hp on the stock internals and a very good tune. it would seem the that the time, money and effort be spent on getting the truck to stop and turn with the stock SR power first. Nothing wrong with what you're doing....quite impressive actually....just wondering and eager to see the finished product.

 

Thanks! My last car was a '96 240 with a redtop swap. I loved the car immensely. Unfortunately I wasn't financially able to mod it in the way that I really wanted so my money was left just for upkeep. I ended up saving that car from the previous owner who had cut the springs which blew the struts, broke a lug stud on 3 of the wheels (from 4 lug to 3) and generally just abused it which is fine and cool if that's what he wanted to do. I always had dreams of the Tomei 2.2 kit though. It hit me last night when I was talking to a good friend of mine that I was essentially putting a race motor in a '71 Datsun pickup. I'm aware of the capabilities of the mighty SR, just something that I wanted to do. I have never torn a motor down and built it back up by myself before so this is my opportunity before life changes direction again which it inevitably will. I've been in contact with a fab shop that I'll be taking the truck to once the motor is built and back in. That way we can go through and decide how the suspension set up is going to work with the motor mounted and add more strengthening. My aim is to get this truck prepped for TX2K14. Depending on how things go I am looking at 25-30psi. I know there are going to be people on here that will give me shit about wanting to do this to my truck, call me a noob and tell me that I am an idiot for wanting to overpower it. But the thing is that it is MY truck. If I ruin it, then I ruin it. But at least I'll have built it the way I wanted to.

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Just got back from the junkyards today. I was hoping to find another 521 but that wasn't in the cards. I did find a 620 though which I can go back and pull what I would need for the brake conversion as well as several honda passports. I did manage to get the hatch struts from a 350z for $20. All that I need to do is switch the sides of the struts, drill 6 holes and presto! Struts for the hood! I've been wanting to do it but wasn't willing to go out and buy new ones. Tomorrow I'm going to kick it with the powder coater and watch the process unfold. Grill, headlight surrounds, valve cover and various brackets from the motor are all getting the make over. I'll put up pics when they're done.

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I now understand the reason, after reading the build i also came to that conclusion as well, hence the question of braking and suspension. Right you are about the build...its yours... build it the way you want to.....just do it the right way, address all parts of the truck so that it complements each other to bring out the best total package...go- turn-stop.

 

About the engine, if you have not done this already...line bore the main journals and match the bearings to main and rod journals, there is a number stamped on the crank and block to guide the selection of the bearing grade....google search the chart to do the comparison. I also suggest new oil pump and high capacity oil pan with oil cooler, cosworth head gasket. if you need any more suggestions i'll be happy to oblige.

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I now understand the reason, after reading the build i also came to that conclusion as well, hence the question of braking and suspension. Right you are about the build...its yours... build it the way you want to.....just do it the right way, address all parts of the truck so that it complements each other to bring out the best total package...go- turn-stop.

 

About the engine, if you have not done this already...line bore the main journals and match the bearings to main and rod journals, there is a number stamped on the crank and block to guide the selection of the bearing grade....google search the chart to do the comparison. I also suggest new oil pump and high capacity oil pan with oil cooler, cosworth head gasket. if you need any more suggestions i'll be happy to oblige.

 

Thanks for the info! I am planning on the Tomei oil pan and DIY oil cooler set up. While I was at the junkyards I saw a few Land Rovers there with a pretty awesome oil cooler set up. It was a big tube that ran length wise behind the grill with a few thousand heat sink wires coming off of it. Currently waiting on the stroker kit from Tomei to get here so I can determine the bearings I need to get. The ACL bearings look like they don't need to be grade matched, just order the right size and I'm good. The stroker kit had an option of ordering bearings for an additional $1,600. What the deal was that they would send out every bearing of every grade in a lump package. If I would be able to sell off the ones I didn't need then I probably would have gone for it, but I doubt that I would have. The kit should be in this week and the block back from Darton either this week or next week. it's all coming together.

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Didn't do too much work on the truck today. Managed to hook up the hood struts without too much fuss, just have to get some hardware to finish the install but it works pretty damn well. At the same time I need to get some other hardware to put the headlights back in and headlight surrounds. Tomorrow I'll be power washing the engine bay and undercarriage finally. I'm kind of at a dead point until I can put the motor together. After that is the suspension and brakes.

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I have a question for anyone that can help. I've been doing some searching and haven't come up with at hard answer yet that I can go on. There are only a few parts left that are needed to assemble the motor once the block and head are done. In doing my research I know that the journal and con rod bearings are graded and can be found on the block and crank. The issue I am having is that the new crank that I have from the Tomei stroker kit doen't have any markings on it, unless I am totally blind. At the moment I can't look at the block because it is still at Darton. When I called them to request the numbers from the block he came back with this: U2122CVT. So in the longest explanation that I could have given, how do I measure for the bearings that I am going to need that are the correct clearance?

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This weekend I saw another 521 on Craigslist for sale for $500! I called and emailed and finally got a response. I met with ths owner to look at it today and am going to pick it up this weekend. The front suspension is cut off, firewall is non existent and won't even roll. Plus side, tons of parts that I need for my truck and it has a 350 chevy with transmission mounted so if anyone is looking, the motor and tranny are for sale, you can take the frame too if you want ha ha. I'll get pics up this weekend, total steal! Called Darton today and the block won't be ready until next week. Just gives me more time to tear down the new truck.

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350 chevy.. naaah, I'd rather have that monster SR you're building. Gad zooks son, that thing's gonna be a beast. 

 

In your previous post you asked "how do I measure for the bearings that I am going to need that are the correct clearance"? Sounds like the guy at Darton gave you the block serial #. Useless bit of info. Who ever does the line bore on that block should give you the correct bearing size for the crank based on the size of the bore and the Tomei crank's bearing ID. The crank should have come with a spec sheet that will give you that info, Otherwise use a micrometer and provide that measurement to the shop you order the bearings from. if I'm not mistaken the rods should have come with the same info, and the size of rod bearings you need. If not, again just use a micrometer. 

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Dear Rust,

 

I'm tired and I hate you. Please remove yourself. There is an Audi to one side and Ford to the other. Either of which I'm sure wouldn't mind having you.

 

-Me

 

P.s. f*ck you....

 

 

wish i could say that bout my 620, but the rust is whats holding it together!

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