project smurfet 1971 521 datsun sr20det

[jrock4224]

This weekend I saw another 521 on Craigslist for sale for $500! I called and emailed and finally got a response. I met with ths owner to look at it today and am going to pick it up this weekend. The front suspension is cut off, firewall is non existent and won't even roll. Plus side, tons of parts that I need for my truck and it has a 350 chevy with transmission mounted so if anyone is looking, the motor and tranny are for sale, you can take the frame too if you want ha ha. I'll get pics up this weekend, total steal! Called Darton today and the block won't be ready until next week. Just gives me more time to tear down the new truck.

seems like 5 dollars might be a more approriate price for whats left which aint much

[ArmlessMechanic]

wish i could say that bout my 620, but the rust is whats holding it together!

 

Ha ha, ouch! :poop:

 

350 chevy.. naaah, I'd rather have that monster SR you're building. Gad zooks son, that thing's gonna be a beast. 

 

In your previous post you asked "how do I measure for the bearings that I am going to need that are the correct clearance"? Sounds like the guy at Darton gave you the block serial #. Useless bit of info. Who ever does the line bore on that block should give you the correct bearing size for the crank based on the size of the bore and the Tomei crank's bearing ID. The crank should have come with a spec sheet that will give you that info, Otherwise use a micrometer and provide that measurement to the shop you order the bearings from. if I'm not mistaken the rods should have come with the same info, and the size of rod bearings you need. If not, again just use a micrometer. 

 

Thanks for the advice. I originally bought the truck to haul my R6. I was looking at yotas simply because they are nearly indestructable. Every one I found was around 5-7k which I didn't want to spend. Yet here I am with 2 521's that don't run and over 11k into the project ha ha ha :geek:  Anyway, I found the blue one and the guy had already started the sr swap so I figured "why not?" The more I worked on the Lil' Hustler the more I fell in love with it. I remember when I was in high school surfing the web during class and finding a 510 with a 13b swap for sale and wanted it so badly as my first car. Of course this was back in 2002ish. There was a lot that I didn't know of the automotive world but was sure I wanted a fast datsun. Fast forward 11 years, voila! Anyway......

 

The 521 I just bought this week still has (and in great condition) straight doors with glass, flawless windshield and opening rear window, fenders, hood, uncut front core support, grille, lights, light buckets, nearly rust free bed, uncracked dash, lift kit in the rear, motor and trans plus all of the front end footwork that was cut off. I'm thinking I got a good deal considering there was just a 521 bed here that sold for $400. Once I tear down the new truck and figure out which parts I'll use, then I'll post the rest here and maybe CL for sale for anyone who is short on parts :thumbup:

[ansonowicz]

Subscribed!

 

Your direction is very similar to the visions I have for my 521...eventually, you know, after I get the 521 to run.  However I know very little about the sr20s.  I'm no stranger to turbo'd setups since all of my turbo knowledge is on the ej25 and subarus (my poor wagon has gone through 2 motors and 2 transmissions because it's daily beaten on and off road).  

 

Anyway, hats off to  you and for finding one of the last Tomei stroker kits out there!

 

 

** I dream of taking the motor cradle out of a WRX, it's motor, cutting some of the engine bay to make it fit. Oh how crazy that would be.   flame away.

[ArmlessMechanic]

ansonowicz, on 12 Apr 2013 - 16:32, said:

Subscribed!

 

Your direction is very similar to the visions I have for my 521...eventually, you know, after I get the 521 to run. However I know very little about the sr20s. I'm no stranger to turbo'd setups since all of my turbo knowledge is on the ej25 and subarus (my poor wagon has gone through 2 motors and 2 transmissions because it's daily beaten on and off road).

 

Anyway, hats off to you and for finding one of the last Tomei stroker kits out there!

 

 

** I dream of taking the motor cradle out of a WRX, it's motor, cutting some of the engine bay to make it fit. Oh how crazy that would be. flame away.

Thanks, it is going to be one hell of a truck. I was actually thinking of taking the shell that I bought and dropping in a 4G63 with AWD. It would be definitely sick for sure! That is a long way off though if it actually does ever happen. Good Luck with your 521!

 

I've been stagnant with the project as of late because of moving out of rehab and back into society. Here are some pics of the interior body work, nothing big. The shell I bought has a split rear window so I am thinking that I'll swap it over into my blue turd if it fits. If it doesn't, I'll make it! I also picked up a set of 18x9.5ish wheels, currently they are chromed but that will be fixed. I don't know how I feel about them until I can test fit them on the truck, I'll get pictures of that this weekend.

 

 

Round 3 of parts today; ARP Main Studs, OEM Nissan SR20DET Water Neck Outlet, STANCE Water Neck Adapter, ER Spec Head Swap Package (ARP Head Studs, Cometic 1.01mm Head Gasket, exhaust manifold and valve cover gaskets), TOMEI Oversized Oil Pan, SR20DET OEM Full Engine Gasket Set, ACL Main Bearings, ACL Rod Bearings and ACL Thrust Washers.

[10psitx]

350 chevy.. naaah, I'd rather have that monster SR you're building. Gad zooks son, that thing's gonna be a beast. 

 

In your previous post you asked "how do I measure for the bearings that I am going to need that are the correct clearance"? Sounds like the guy at Darton gave you the block serial #. Useless bit of info. Who ever does the line bore on that block should give you the correct bearing size for the crank based on the size of the bore and the Tomei crank's bearing ID. The crank should have come with a spec sheet that will give you that info, Otherwise use a micrometer and provide that measurement to the shop you order the bearings from. if I'm not mistaken the rods should have come with the same info, and the size of rod bearings you need. If not, again just use a micrometer. 

Paradime is correct with his explanation. when you opted to go with the Tomei kit you changed the requirements of the factory specs. you should have a spec sheet from Tomei with their requirements for the bearings, both con and main.  If not ...mic both con and mains journals and give the measurements to the machinist so he can make the necessary adjustment when doing the line bore he will need the main caps as well. Barring that send the crank and rods to the shop and they should be able to give you the sizes you need to order.  Please take your time with this part of the build, bearing sizing and selection is crucial to a SR longevity....   

[ArmlessMechanic]

Paradime is correct with his explanation. when you opted to go with the Tomei kit you changed the requirements of the factory specs. you should have a spec sheet from Tomei with their requirements for the bearings, both con and main.  If not ...mic both con and mains journals and give the measurements to the machinist so he can make the necessary adjustment when doing the line bore he will need the main caps as well. Barring that send the crank and rods to the shop and they should be able to give you the sizes you need to order.  Please take your time with this part of the build, bearing sizing and selection is crucial to a SR longevity....   

 

Agreed. Last week took the rotating assembly to the same place that the cylinder head is at right now and picked his brain about the bearing situation. We worked up a plan of sorts so I'm feeling confident in the build so far. There is a lot of money going in to this and trust me, I don't want this thing to blow a month, 6 months or a year down the road. :sick:

[paradime]

Hey Armless,

 

Glad to hear you're talking to a shop to make sure. Reassurance is a good investment for your peace of mind. Put together right, with your components that SR is going to be a stout motor, but like 10psitx mentioned it requires tight tolerances to keep it together. When you assemble it you can get absolute assurance by using a gap tester like Plastigauge. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html It's a super cheap method for knowing 100% that your motor is good to go. Shit saved my bacon more than once. 

 

Just a heads up, with hardened studs you'll need to re-torque them every 10K or so. if you're not pushing past 400HP stock studs may be a better way to go. they flex and give a bit, so they stay put better. Hardened metal will hold up to huge HP, but they DO NOT flex at all, so they tend to back out from vibration. It's not designed to go 100k plus like the stock ones.  Just my $,02

[ArmlessMechanic]

Thanks again Paradime, especially now because I just got in almost everything in for the assembly. All I'm waiting on is the bearings to be delivered and we are a go! I FINALLY GOT MY BLOCK BACK FROM DARTON!!!!! I couldn't be happier, I picked it up yesterday after work. The finished product is impressive! They decked nearly every surface to make sure everything is true. Over the last weekend I took pictures of parts from the parts truck to get some things ready for sale. The only other thing I did was come up with a complete headlight assembly set from both trucks and mounted it onto the truck, she's got a face now. Though I do believe that I put them in the wrong sides.... We'll see what happens this weekend, I am thinking I'll drop the gas tank, clean it out and get it ready for duty. 

[ArmlessMechanic]

I'm hoping you guys can help me out here. When I got the block back from Darton it didn't have the "blow-by" hose anymore. I am wondering if anyone has a spare one or knows where to get one? I called Darton and they said they had to cut it out of the block because it was siezed in there. A friend of mine said that I could tap it and put an AN fitting in there and just go about it that way. Any thoughts anyone? I can't upload pictures to the site from my work so those will have to wait. For reference, it is the tube that is pressed in on the exhaust side of the block towards the back.

[ArmlessMechanic]

Anyway.... Round 4 of parts this week: New water pump, new oil pump/front cover, Z32 fuel filter, Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump 340lh, Tomei fuel pressure regulator, Nismo thermostat, Stance oversize water pump pulley, Mishimoto oil cooler, New timing chain kit and water neck. Busy busy busy. Here are a few shots of the 370z hatch shocks holding up the hood.

[jrock4224]

um not to be noisey but that is a clean little 69 chevelle with the vynil top.....

 

I'm hoping you guys can help me out here. When I got the block back from Darton it didn't have the "blow-by" hose anymore. I am wondering if anyone has a spare one or knows where to get one? I called Darton and they said they had to cut it out of the block because it was siezed in there. A friend of mine said that I could tap it and put an AN fitting in there and just go about it that way. Any thoughts anyone? I can't upload pictures to the site from my work so those will have to wait. For reference, it is the tube that is pressed in on the exhaust side of the block towards the back.

that's the carb .... u pull your thumb off it once u have taken a good pull... :rofl:

[ArmlessMechanic]

um not to be noisey but that is a clean little 69 chevelle with the vynil top.....

 

that's the carb .... u pull your thumb off it once u have taken a good pull... :rofl:

Thats given me the greatest idea! Make a carburetor into a pipe  :frantics: It is a clean little ride!

 

[BayArea510]

wow there is some serious cash getting dumped here and at a fast rate. Good luck! Its looking good!

[james610]

i am planning on also doing a sr20 swap, just wondering, wat tranny are u running & did u have to cut or use a diffrent drive shaft? if so off wat car/truck?

[ArmlessMechanic]

i am planning on also doing a sr20 swap, just wondering, wat tranny are u running & did u have to cut or use a diffrent drive shaft? if so off wat car/truck?

 

I didn't do the swap itself but have some info. I am running an SR transmission, the tunnel had to be cut to fit it. I am not confident about the driveshaft but I am assuming that it is from the truck itself and was cut to fit. Next time I swing by the shop I'll crawl under it and snap some photos for you.

[Phixius]

i am planning on also doing a sr20 swap, just wondering, wat tranny are u running & did u have to cut or use a diffrent drive shaft? if so off wat car/truck?

 

Nothing is bolt in for these swaps!

 

 

your going to need a custom driveline.  the stock 521 driveshaft is flange type and SR/KA/CA/RB... are slip yoke .  unless you got a 5spd with slip yoke already, youll need the front part of the shaft from the donor to mate to yours, then take those peices and your measurement from the diff to tranny (inside to inside) to a driveline shop... 

[ArmlessMechanic]

Just got an email from the OP. Phixius is also right. Stock driveshaft modded to length amf the shop that did the cutting also mounted the right flange

[ArmlessMechanic]

I meant PO

[james610]

ok thanks for the info, i just got a 521 last week and rebuilt the motor (l20b) today so i wont do the swap 4 a while, just trying to get as much info on a swap b4 i start spending money on it.. i am leaning towards a sr20 swap tho so this info is helpful thanks...

[Phixius]

ok thanks for the info, i just got a 521 last week and rebuilt the motor (l20b) today so i wont do the swap 4 a while, just trying to get as much info on a swap b4 i start spending money on it.. i am leaning towards a s420 swap tho so this info is helpful thanks...

Driveshaft is last of your worries then...

[ArmlessMechanic]

6.0 V12?????? please tell me that is what you are doing and you didn't mistakenly hit the '4' instead of 'R'

[james610]

haha yea sr20 not s420

[Joelclemow]

What kind of intercooler and radiator is that

[mrbigtanker]

11 hours ago, Joelclemow said:

What kind of intercooler and radiator is that

Dude this thread is dead. Last post other then you was in 2013.

[thisismatt]

12 hours ago, Joelclemow said:

What kind of intercooler and radiator is that

Dude. It's in the thread.