Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Hey, I know Im new here and probably havent earned the right to ask for free help and all, but I could really use some help. Im thinking of swapping in an L20b into my 510 instead of running the L16. Its got a bit of a stalling issue and since this is currently my only car, I need it to be reliable and DD'able so I can get to work and school. Now, Im nowhere close to automotively retarded, but Im brand new to Datsuns and older vehicles. Im usually an Evo engine guy so Im out of my element here. I do have a buddy whom I normally go to for the engine tasks I cant complete myself (which seems like it more and more lately since Im in an apartment with not tools), but hes in the same boat not knowing anything about older carb'd engines. Would I be able to enlist the help of someone in my area Kitsap County or Greater Seattle area whom would help me on the swap? Like I said, I have no place to work or tools to use or really knowledge on the swap, but Im down to learn and help... plus I can provide beer, pizza, etc. to make the work go by smoother. I was thinking of checking out ZSpecialties just north of Seattle get my car diagnosed and hopefully fix the stalling, but if Im going to spend money I can just buy a working L20b with a bit more power and torque. Im not looking for a free handout, but a significantly reduced rate or favor exchange would be nice. Any takers? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Offer beer and bacon and I bet lots of guys would show up Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Offer beer and bacon and I bet lots of guys would show up I was thinking of punch and pie, but beer and bacon mos def would get a better turn out I think. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 if you feel like venturing, i have an open bay in my shop and all the tools to do the swap. im in woodland, wa. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 no offence to the original poster but carbed engines difficult? seriously what is the world comming to? i had the l20b out of a mangled car cleaned, painted and dropped into another car in 2 hours i had the engine out of my subaru and on the ground in 20 minutes on topic if you can pull an engine out of an evo an l20b should be a fucking cake walk seriously drain radiator disconnect 4 wires fuel line heater hoses any smog equipment bellhousing motor mounts throttle linkage and yank the bitch it aint hard at all if your close to lapine oregon (doubtful) bring it by it will be done in an afternoon edit: this was not ment to sound mean more of a wtf moment then anything Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 if you feel like venturing, i have an open bay in my shop and all the tools to do the swap. im in woodland, wa. Ill see if theres anywhere closer, but Woodland wouldnt be a real problem of a drive. Thanks! no offence to the original poster but carbed engines difficult? seriously what is the world comming to? i had the l20b out of a mangled car cleaned, painted and dropped into another car in 2 hours i had the engine out of my subaru and on the ground in 20 minutes on topic if you can pull an engine out of an evo an l20b should be a fucking cake walk seriously drain radiator disconnect 4 wires fuel line heater hoses any smog equipment bellhousing motor mounts throttle linkage and yank the bitch it aint hard at all if your close to lapine oregon (doubtful) bring it by it will be done in an afternoon edit: this was not ment to sound mean more of a wtf moment then anything No offense taken. I didnt say that it was hard, just that I dont know where to start since Im new to Datuns. Plus I live in an apartment so I have no working space and I dont have tools up here. Im sure its really easy... especially after working on 4G63Ts. I just need help getting started in the Datto scene. Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 You can bring your car out to my shop & I will look @ it for you. More than likely its a loose wire, vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem. Its a Datsun. Keep it simple ;) Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 You can bring your car out to my shop & I will look @ it for you. More than likely its a loose wire, vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem. Its a Datsun. Keep it simple ;) That would be awesome. Your place would be a lot closer than going over to ZSpecialties... Wheres your place located at? Im free basically until eternity right now so whenever you have free time I can come down there. Just let me know when you can squeeze me in. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Ill see if theres anywhere closer, but Woodland wouldnt be a real problem of a drive. Thanks! No offense taken. I didnt say that it was hard, just that I dont know where to start since Im new to Datuns. Plus I live in an apartment so I have no working space and I dont have tools up here. Im sure its really easy... especially after working on 4G63Ts. I just need help getting started in the Datto scene. good im glad to hear it the reason for that little rant is ive seen people who claim up and down that a modern car is so much easier to work on and i just cant believe the crap there spewing lol Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Ha no. I can already see how easy this is going to be to work on which Im pretty stoked about; way less complicated than what Im used to. Im sure that once I get my hands dirty I will catch on quick. Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 You can bring your car out to my shop & I will look @ it for you. More than likely its a loose wire, vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem. Its a Datsun. Keep it simple ;) A lot of Dattos never return from the Collector!! MMUUUHHHAHAHAHAHAHA! :lol: JK! Get your @$$ out there it will be done quick, the man knows his Dattos! Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 stalling? You dont need tools for this test. Get a can of carb cleaner and shoot it around the base of the carb and at the intake manifold flange. Then spray some around the pcv valve and the vacuum line from the distributor to the carb. If the engine speeds up then you found your problem. If the car starts and then immediately stalls block off the pcv valve (on the aft side of the intake manifold) and give it another try. When trouble shooting always start with the easiest and cheapest things first. Try this and if it doesnt work report back here and I will give you something else to check. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 thinking of swapping in an L20b into my 510 instead of running the L16. Its got a bit of a stalling issue and since this is currently my only car, I need it to be reliable and DD'able so I can get to work and school. (which seems like it more and more lately since Im in an apartment with not tools) 1st mistake never buy a datsun if you need perfect attendance and have no tools!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Did you research that your car is a AUTOMATIC and a L20 is a 6bolt crank and you have a 5 bolt. You have the auto adapter plate for the crank flex plate???????? autos are vacuum sensetive to ck the vacuum lines. Datdoug can help but dont expect a l20 going right in unless you have all the parts personally if you need a good car to go to school/work this isnt it 510s are projects/hobby cars now. I daily drivr a datsun everyday and they break cause they are 40yrs old. rear main seal ,brake cylinders,brakes,distributor wears out. lashpad falls out ,clutch wears out,rear main seal leaks, rear axle seal leaks. alternator out volt reg. this is just my truck in the last 5 years. If your serios uy at least a100-150$ craftsman set of tools in metric and brake line wrenches. read everything on olddatsuns.com in the tech section Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 And.. since nobody has really made this point.... L20B, L16. It's like comparing granny smith to golden delicious apples, here. They are basically the very same engine, nothing is different really. Block is taller. Use the L16 motor mounts, fuel pump, alternator, etc. L16's had cheap POS alternator mounts which are notorious for failing, the L20B used larger bolts that don't break. Alternatively, go to a junk yard and grab an alternator mount off of a single cam KA24E, bolts right on and is already set up for a single-bolt set up. Alignment is perfect-o. You *may* have to have the exhaust modified since the L20B sits up higher, we have no clue what is up with your current exhaust but if you're close to the floorboard now, you'll be a lot closer and/or hitting the floorboard after. No biggie though, any exhaust shop can fix that for you. Depending on what you run for an air cleaner, you may hit your hood with the air cleaner. Not a problem is using stock 510 motor mounts, but some aftermarket and late model L-series mounts are taller. Won't know until you get it in there. Once the L16 is out, put the L20B back in reverse order and make adjustments as needed. If you're using the stock carb linkage, you may have to unbolt the brace, clock it upwards, and tighten down the one remaining bolt so the linkage rod clears a little better. Wouldn't be concerned unless it binds however. Some people clearance issues, others don't. With my SU's, I had to. If you're used to working on new shizzit, this is going to be so simple you'll quit your job and become a shadetree Datsun mechanic. Scout's honor. Now, as far as your current setup... troubleshooting an L-series is so flippin' easy! As Dennis pointed out, go check that puppy for vacuum leaks. While you're at it, throw some carb cleaner in that carb of yours and get her nice and purdy like. Check that your accelerator pump is working properly, could be failing. Somebody on here probably has pictures, just ask. Every single person on here is going to have their own opinion on how to clean a carb and such, but it's all basically the same regardless. Clean carb = happy carb. I assume you've already given her a tune up? Plugs good? Use NGK BPR6ES plugs. Gap at .032 for points, and .040-.044 if you're running electronic ignition. If you're using points, make sure the points are gapped correctly - 0.17 to 0.21. I always used a matchbook and always spec'd out just fine. Points are cheap, buy new ones if you have to. Don't forget a condenser, they cause all sorts of BS problems you'll drive yourself nuts over. No way of visually seeing if they are bad. They are like $2. Buy one just because. Cap and rotor is a given, as are plug wires. Basic maintenance. Does it stall when cold? Hot? All the time? Sometimes? Check & replace your fuel filter. Also a cheap maintenance item. Only stall when hot? Make sure your thermostat is working correctly, L-series engines like 192F t-stats but YMMV. Stalls when cold? Make sure your choke isn't stuck (electronic) and that it's adjusted correctly (manual). 'til we know more about your situation, try what we've told you already and see what the results are. If no change, consider your Datsun to be much happier after all this cleaning and touching and feeling and intimacy. Because Datsuns f*cking love intimacy. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 What I have learned over the years is the vacuum adv is hooked up to the manifold instead of the carb But remeber he has a Automatic trans and if putting a L20 in he better have the flex plate the the adapter for the end of the crank. Untill this is figured what part he has, then this is not a 1 day swap Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Ouch, missed the autotragic part. As far as the trannies go, what are the differences between the L20 and the L16 automatics? I know the flex plate will be different (5/6 bolt), but are the trannies all the same or did L20b vehicles get beefier trannies? At this point I'd say grab an automatic truck drivetrain and do the whole thing... or just do a manual conversion? Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Wow, such great information here. Yeah I understand about Datsuns not making the bests DD's. I come from DSMs where they are constantly breaking down and they are 30 years younger than my 510. Sounds like Doug is the cat's pajamas in my area so I will hit him up and learn from him. From the bit of looking Ive been doing, it said it was a straight swap though it never discussed transmissions. I would like to keep the car auto for a few reasons, so If I need a new flex plate then I will pick one up... not an issue. If the L20B version of the auto swaps into my tunnel and I can still use to column shifter then I will look for one of those as well. Thanks for all the tips and Ill see what I can do. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 If you have an l20 and cherry picker ill help if you cone down. Its pretty easy. Swapped an l18 out for an l20 in my driveway a few months back. I owe you anyways lol Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Well I have access to a L20b, but it looks like I need to source a flex plate to keep my current transmission. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/37570-l20b-automatic-flyweel-wanted/ Quote Link to comment
DRIVEN Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Yeah I understand about Datsuns not making the bests DD's. Really? I drive mine every day. I'm still trying to figure out why you are replacing an engine to cure a stalling issue. I get it if you just want a bigger, more powerful engine. If this is your daily driver that you need for work and school my suggestion would be to leave it as stock as possible. Figure out why it's stalling and fix it. You're going to be pretty disappointed if you get that L20b swapped in and find out it was just a dirty fuel filter or something. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 More power, more toque, fixes my issues... thats why I plan on doing it; not just to fix some stalling. Many people have offered to help with the stalling so it would be stupid to do a swap just for that. Quote Link to comment
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