Siqx20 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I wanna make some new door cards (panels) but not sure a good affordable material to make the panel out of. I'm going to be wrapping it in fabric. I would just wrap my original panels but they are all warped and fucked up. what is a good material to use and where can I find it? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Tice Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I've got a few door panels from a 76 280Z, if that will help you at all... as far as a good material to use? Thick Cardboard, like a Refridgerator Box might be sufficient. What I do when I find myself in such a situation, is wander around home depot or Lowes and see what would be a good idea. For instance when I made my Door panels, I simply took Roofing vinyl, cut it to shape, stretched it tight and screwed it onto the door :lol: Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 1/8 or 1/4 inch MDF - did it for a friends 620 - i traced the pattern/hole locations from his old one and presto - new door cards :D Quote Link to comment
boxboy Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I made mine out of some 1/8 inch "white board" and put the white side toward the door for an extra bit of moisture protection. I am very happy with it. My panels were also warped and spongy which is from moisture in the air. This seemed a good solution to me. Other than the white, it is very similar to the original material. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I made mine out of some 1/8 inch "white board" and put the white side toward the door for an extra bit of moisture protection. I am very happy with it. My panels were also warped and spongy which is from moisture in the air. This seemed a good solution to me. Other than the white, it is very similar to the original material. same as i did but he used MDF with a melamine(plastic) - also found at home depot, and i like that better than just MDF :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I did a headliner in a Chevy C1500 with cardboard backing and some nice foam used as sound deadening on the other side. Then wrapped it with some vinyl material found @ your local quilt shop and stuck it up there. Worked well! Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 DO NOT use plain MDF, it will soak up moisture. Just like the cardboard. I used a wood called Baltic birch plywood. it is thin and takes in no moisture. Cabinet makers use it. You can cut it with a scroll saw or a jigsaw, perfect to trace out your doorskin. Radio 1 Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I'd use tempered hardboard, 1/8" thick. Most often called masonite. Around here a 4'x 8' sheet costs about $9 at Home Depot. If you can, get the S2S stuff (smooth both sides), the S1S has one smooth and one textured surface (looks like a screen door), it isn't as durable. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I used pegboard. It's a bit thicker and harder than the original stuff, but fairly cheap. I did put visqueen between the door and the panel. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I'd use tempered hardboard, 1/8" thick. Most often called masonite. Around here a 4'x 8' sheet costs about $9 at Home Depot. If you can, get the S2S stuff (smooth both sides), the S1S has one smooth and one textured surface (looks like a screen door), it isn't as durable. thats the stuff i was thinking about using. my dad told me about some stuff used in cabinetry as well, i believe he called it backer board. i need to make new panels for inside of my c-pillars. and for the rear deck. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 I would use masonite. We pave the half-pipes w/ it, and it does well. 1 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 I used hardboard at from Home Depot. Like mentioned about about $9 for a 4x8 sheet. Havent had moisture issues with it yet... If you cover with a material, make sure it is UV resistant. Quote Link to comment
screamer510 Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 I used pegboard. It's a bit thicker and harder than the original stuff, but fairly cheap. I did put visqueen between the door and the panel. I left some pegboard outside (or my kids did). A few good rains, and it swelled up to the thickness of a 2" thick phonebook. Don't get the pegboard wet! I like the thin plywood, too bad it's like $25 a sheet. Dan Quote Link to comment
Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 I'm making mine out of this ABS plastic stuff, it's glossy on one side and textured on the other, similar to the texturing on Datsun dashes (at least the 510s) One of the best things is that it's super easy cut and it was fairly cheap, I think I made about half my panels (six total) with about $25 bucks worth. Quote Link to comment
zed1 Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 Consider Kraft Tan Wateproof Panelboard My link for the door panels (since it is already moisture-resistant). However, this material is designed for sewing door panels and therefore is less dense (and lighter). Since I have the fibreboard and am already applying polyurethane to the kick panels, I may not use the panelboard. Keith Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 "I'm making mine out of this ABS plastic stuff," Could you explain what it is, and where you got it? 1 Quote Link to comment
Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 I got the sheets from Tap Plastics... They call it abs sheets, comes in a lot of different thicknesses Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 Thanks for the info, I do too much fiberglass work on boats, and am very familiar with Tap Plastics. Quote Link to comment
didjeriDatsun Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I asked about getting panels made at a really nice hot rod shop that just does interiors. They said they'd cut the backing out of some of plastic, maybe similar to what was mentioned about Tap Plastics, so I'd think that plastic would be the professional choice, but then again cardboard might be more appropriate for a real ratsun, or anyone that thinks the jankier the better. You wouldn't even need to wrap it with fabric, just the Speed Queen print that's already on the cardboard. Oh ya! Quote Link to comment
Merrimack Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I asked about getting panels made at a really nice hot rod shop that just does interiors. They said they'd cut the backing out of some of plastic, maybe similar to what was mentioned about Tap Plastics, so I'd think that plastic would be the professional choice, but then again cardboard might be more appropriate for a real ratsun, or anyone that thinks the jankier the better. You wouldn't even need to wrap it with fabric, just the Speed Queen print that's already on the cardboard. Oh ya! I can see it now. One panel says "Grade A Large Eggs" and the other panel says "Cheerios". Nice. 1 Quote Link to comment
Drive510 Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 These are all awesome ideas. Was anyone or any shop able to recreate the interior panel stitching?? Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Any kind of hard board like Masonite, peg board will have the same problem as the OEM door panels, in that they attract moisture. You might pop them off once or twice and then the holes tear and the panels don't stay on. MDF unless cheap but you get what you pay for, and it doesn't solve the moisture problem. Baltic Birch would be a good soultion if you could get a couple scraps and didn't have to shell out $65 for a whole sheet. Still it's wood and attracts moisture. Maybe Baltic birch that was sealed with a paint or varnish would be the hot-set-up. Here is what I did a few years ago. Pretty sure I beat Son of a Datsun Guy here to the idea. I got scraps of ABS from Tap Plastics for $6. You could use a jig saw but I have a bandsaw and put a little sanding drum on my drill press to clean up the edges. I got these plastic fasteners from my automotive paint supplier, for Toyota Celicas, 2 boxes of 10, $20. Located holes in the new panels from the existing 9 holes. The fasteners look finished and I can pop the panels off any time to fix the locks and window regulators. The only thing I would do differently is to glue some block of foam on the back or a thin layer of polyethylene sheets like come in packaging or packing... just to keep the door skins from transmitting noise. Never have to worry about moisture, scratch and mar resistant... comes in any color as long as you want black. Bueno, no? 6 Quote Link to comment
Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 ^ O.o you did beat me I like the way it looks, and yeah it does rattle a bit, how'd you know where to drill the holes on yours Figbuck? I know that it was a lot of guess and check on mine and there are a couple I'd like to redo cleaner.... Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 I held newspaper up to my doors. Aligned one edge to the top. I still had my old panels for teh window crank and door handle. So I traced those onto the newspaper as well. Then I just sharpied all the points. Later laid the newspaper over the new board (I used speaker board so I just let the sharpie bleed through...) and use a punch to mark all the spots. Worked well for me! Quote Link to comment
Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 that seems so much more intuitive than my solution... I put little pieces of sponge in the holes and put paint on them then held the panel up and drilled based on the paint that transferred to the back of the panel :lol: only it was really inaccurate :o Quote Link to comment
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