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josh_t

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Everything posted by josh_t

  1. Im surprised no one has made one considering how straightforward it is. They make them for most popular domestic differentials. I haven't even heard of someone having one made. While needing to be quite precise, it's also a very simple kit. A sleeve and shims.
  2. josh_t

    First post. (sort of)

    I've never driven a 4 speed b210, but compared to auto, there is a night and day difference. That OD definitely is nice. Even with the 3.889 auto rear instead of the 3.70 the 5 speed originally would have, I cruise at like 3600 on the interstate. Far cry better than the 1:1 in the auto, being well over 4000 IIRC. And closer ratios with the 5 speed is nice too when you have so little torque to work with.
  3. josh_t

    First post. (sort of)

    Auto driveshaft fits the 63a too, btw. It was very straightforward. Change pedal box, install hydraulics, put the pilot bushing in the crank and put the fly wheel on. And then in goes the transmission. Wiring is simple. Make sure you have the shim plate between the trans and the engine. I needed shifter bushings and the cup and both the inner shift boot and clutch fork boot. Got all that from a 71 series application from z car depot. Using redline trans fluid to not kill the synchros too.
  4. josh_t

    First post. (sort of)

    Here are some oics I got for you of the master and slave cyls. Best I can do is the rear crossmember without the car being jacked up. I don't know much about the mount itself. I ran what was attached to it in the JY. Got this thing wrapped up just in time for IA ATL spring meet 2017. The auto to 63a swap is a breeze with that big ol tunnel.
  5. josh_t

    First post. (sort of)

    Testing.... Testing...... This new-to-me picture function. Raw and uncut, here it is.
  6. josh_t

    First post. (sort of)

    This is the OP, back on my old account. It's raining here today, so oics will have to wait a little. I may still have exedy part numbers for the swap too.
  7. I have been on the hunt for info on crush sleeves on the H150 rear in my b210, and obviously I can't find a sleeve. But I'm also trying to figure out if it could be shimmed and reused as I've seen someone either on here or datsun1200 mention it. Either way, that's only a band aid fix. I don't like the crush sleeve idea in the first place. The 'murican cars can get crush sleeve eliminators to do away with them and just have a shim preload setup. Anyone looked into doing this? Looks like easy lathe work with the proper dimensions. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=8280
  8. josh_t

    Is my engine a gonner?

    I want to know how this turned out. Did you tear into it yet? The last time i heard a squealing noise inside an engine was when my Dodge 318 finally gave up the ghost 2 weeks after a really hard, 6k+ RPM pull with ~10 psi oil pressure (ran for 2-3 years prior at that pressure) In my case, the sound was a rod bearing being spun. That engine had wiped a few cam lobes in the process as well. Hopefully yours didn't suffer too much damage so it would be still rebuildable.
  9. josh_t

    Project: Daily

    Long time no post. Well too little fuel, too much timing, and too high of compression for that combo to run well lead to a bit of really hard detonation when i got to doing some angry driving one day in December. Engine developed a dead misfire on one cylinder. #3 hole has no compression and lots of oil. Drove it home, parked it and got my truck going. Then i finally got around to looking into whats up with the engine. Looks like a broken ring land according to my bore scope. No scoring of the cylinder from what i can tell. Head needs to come off to know for sure. Pics and more details when that happens.
  10. aah. its been 18 months since ive been in a datsun. Car's back on the road. Its a good feeling.

    1. r0p0doe

      r0p0doe

      Congrats, cause for a celebration!!!

  11. Now that you say that, i think i have seen a VW in that color.
  12. parts coming in next week. motor will be together and running now.

  13. I really like the simple clean stock look of this car. And the roof rack w/ bike is perfect. Your color scheme works well too. Do you have a color code for that blue?
  14. no the condenser is always separate but the stock radiator is pretty much cradled in by the copper a/c lines on mine so i have to keep the stock radiator.
  15. man i should have been the one to steal yours. lol. jk. im gonna have to get that rockauto one for my b as well. i sold my yellow one with the blue cars radiator in it so i could say it was a running driving car. I've got to keep the stock radiator cuz im keeping my a/c. My a/c is all original and all connected and it holds vacuum indefinitely. new dryer, new oil and r134a should be all it needs. Why keep it? Cuz Daily car.
  16. i hit 6200 and floated valves in mine all the time. overheated it on the daily too. i just ran synthetic and kept an eye on the oil pressure. mine never dropped below 45 at anything over 1500 rpms. my regular shift point was 3.5-4k in my auto.
  17. that's freakin nasty bro. i can't believe that even exists.
  18. A little hair pie never hurt anyone. As long as its so fresh and so clean. Can't have a rain forest. I'm wondering where the black girls are though, TBH. That's my kind of thing nowadays.
  19. got my conversion set in a few days early. Crap, now i'm behind schedule. I wanted the engine to be cleaned up and torn down and ready for the gaskets by the time they got here.

  20. josh_t

    Project: Daily

    Its not the original head but its on the original bottom end. And 5200 is perfectly ok for a street engine in my opinion. I did find a couple minor things I'm going to work on with the grinder. There is a lot of rough spots in my ports and there is a little shrouding around the spark plug and some roughness around it. Plus there is a small step surrounding and shrouding the intake valves in the chamber. Kind of like the "eyebrows" on the briggs 5hp flathead engines that i used to shave off when i set them up for me and my buddies little go-kart grudge matches. That was worth a lot on those engines.
  21. josh_t

    Project: Daily

    Rolling out these updates. Half the engine is on the stand. Its being torn down and cleaned up and prepped for paint and all new gaskets and seals. Had a head gasket set, conversion gasket set will be in Wednesday. Aluminum parts like timing cover, head, intake, distributor, and oil pump are getting the natural aluminum Nev-R-Dull scrub, iron and sheet metal parts other than the valve cover are going to be gloss black. I think i will do pulleys black too even though i really like the zinc coating that pulleys have on reman parts. I'm up for ideas on the pulleys. And the valve cover is getting a champagne metallic gloss. It'll look good in contrast to the navy blue i want to paint the car. I want the engine compartment to have a clean, understated, almost like a secret is hiding under the hood kind of look. Since it's getting EFI and i'll have to make some portions of the harness myself, i'll probably do a little tucking. On with tonight's pictures. The Z watched the whole thing. So, as you can see, I've got the 728 "FU" head, but obviously its not the original head since i have the 1mm dish standard A14 pistons instead of the 4-5mm dish of the "FU" pistons. I like these chambers a lot, nice large quench area. Sucks they don't flow worth a crap. I will be touching up the ports a little. no real porting, just smoothing out the flashing and there is one spot in the intake tract that seems beneficial to remove. Pics on that later. I will be working on the combustion chamber some. There is some minor shrouding of the intake valve and spark plug that i want to take care of. Coupled with the near flat-tops, i shouldn't get detonation at stock ignition timing. I'm sure i don't have a crazy high CR anyway. I will be cc'ing the heads and pistons and finding my static CR while it is apart. I'm too curious to know for sure what it is to not do it. This engine is in fantastic condition. Very nice smooth cylinder walls, no scoring, no ridge. No play in the bottom end. No binding. It spins quite nicely. The head seems fairly new. No play in the intake valve guides, almost none in the exhaust guides. There is a lot of gumming on the intake valves. It was even built up on the seats and valves on the sealing surfaces. No signs of burnt valves or anything like that. Looks like its been run on crappy gas or too rich a lot. everything is very black and built up with carbon and soot. I think those ought to be looser anyways since they get so much hotter. It also had a Nissan OEM thermostat in it. 82 degree Celsius. Looked like a more modern nissan lettering on it too.
  22. josh_t

    Project: Daily

    Thanks man. It really is a nice car. Especially compared to my old one. Glad i got to experiment on the old one. Now i know what i want from this one.
  23. i have half my engine on the stand. getting torn down and cleaned up. conversion gasket set comes in wednesday. this motor will be spotless and ready to go by then.

    1. dr.feltersnatch

      dr.feltersnatch

      what motor? what re you doing to it?

       

    2. Kirden

      Kirden

      Shhh, it's a secret...

  24. I have the worst time keeping my mouth shut about secrets or surprises.

    1. I'm BLUE

      I'm BLUE

      huh..so does my 18 year old niece

    2. MicroMachinery

      MicroMachinery

      So does my girlfriend's entire family.

  25. josh_t

    Project: Daily

    Haha. Thats the surprise. I will tell you it is by far the easiest and so far the cheapest setup i've come across. I work at a parts store so I've looked at everything including prices and availability and have picked up gaskets for matching parts up. The tech school i go to has lots of vehicles that i've looked over for ideas. It's all factory parts. I'd say 80% of them are off of one common vehicle. The rest are at least the same make and are typically in stock locally.
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