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Hiding wiring


screamer510

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qwik, that's a good point. I like how it can also serve as a distribution block for other wires. I have a lot going to positive in the wagon, like my air-lift compressor, air horns, etc (all fused connections of course)

 

I'm placing an order on Summit, would this be the same item? It would be nice to get it on one order.

Summit remote starter solenoid

sum-g1750_w.jpg

 

Jun,

 

Yes. That looks like the same type kit. It should work the same.

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Jun, not sure if you want to cut your car much... But there is some good space under the rear seat. Cut a hole, and make a box for the battery. If needed, cut a little of the bottom of the seat to clear the battery, but I dont like that part.

 

It is an idea that could be done very well, or very horribly, but given your track record, I think it would turn out well.

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Jun, not sure if you want to cut your car much... But there is some good space under the rear seat. Cut a hole, and make a box for the battery. If needed, cut a little of the bottom of the seat to clear the battery, but I dont like that part.

 

It is an idea that could be done very well, or very horribly, but given your track record, I think it would turn out well.

 

 

ive thought about going this route. should be enough room to sink a full size battery into the floor under the seat.

 

mines in the trunk right now, over the right rear tire.

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ive thought about going this route. should be enough room to sink a full size battery into the floor under the seat.

 

mines in the trunk right now, over the right rear tire.

 

But in a wagon, the "trunk" is exposed. Also the rear seat folds up for easy access!

 

I would not do this on a sedan.

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That's why my battery is in the stock location, in the engine bay

 

.... . putting a "non-sealed" lead acid battery inside the cabin of any car, is as stupid as the offgassing makes you

 

Agreed ... i was planning to relocate ... but found too many factors ... not sure worth risk ... there is too many factors ...

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But Jun said Optima Battery... It is sealed...

 

Im not that dumb...

 

Yes ... not always about you :P :lol:

 

Indy and I were mentioning that as a community answer for others... that may think about ...or are currenlty doing this ...ya see ... ;)

 

This is how we all learn (new and old)...

 

I can justify relocating weight to rear of my project ... since its a sbc lol ... that is my goal ... not same as others as in this case ..

 

Sorry for off topic

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Jun, not sure if you want to cut your car much... But there is some good space under the rear seat. Cut a hole, and make a box for the battery. If needed, cut a little of the bottom of the seat to clear the battery, but I dont like that part.

 

It is an idea that could be done very well, or very horribly, but given your track record, I think it would turn out well.

 

This could very well be an option in the long term, and I have no problems cutting my car for a good reason. I've been cutting it regularly so the tools are already out :lol:

 

For now, I'm going to do what I saw done in another vehicle and mount my 680 in the passenger side footwell, where the speaker usually goes. This way I can reuse the battery cables that are already in there, while I try and think about some different setups. I don't want to blow money on a setup I'm not totally happy with, but if an idea costs next to nothing, it's worth a try.

 

I need to use the Optima in the 620 for a while anyway. It's warming up so the 680 shouldn't give me too hard of a time.

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That's why my battery is in the stock location, in the engine bay

 

.... . putting a "non-sealed" lead acid battery inside the cabin of any car, is as stupid as the offgassing makes you

 

That's why you run a vent tube outside the car, and put the battery in a sealed box ;)

 

Or just get an Optima

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  • 3 weeks later...

Where to start? At fuse block? At headlights? I've got the engine out and am ready to begin.

 

Cut all the black tape off, sort and organize the wires by location (front left, front right, strut towers, right rear, left rear, wiper motor) then group and re-tape and re-route?

 

It doesn't seem too hard, just scary and time-consuming.

 

Am I thinking correctly?

 

Dan

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You got it. I started by plugging my left side headlight then run under the radiater then plug the right side head light up. Oh yah I ran my wiring through the big hole for the fuel line and ran it along the upper frame rail. Don't know if this confusing to you. I will post some pics for you tommarrow.

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Cut all the black tape off, sort and organize the wires by location (front left, front right, strut towers, right rear, left rear, wiper motor) then group and re-tape and re-route?

 

It doesn't seem too hard, just scary and time-consuming.

 

If you un-plug all the connectors in the engine bay .... (after marking what goes where) .... . .. you can pull the whole engine bay harness through the firewall

 

then you can un-wrap the harness sitting in the passenger seat.... .. . stop at the firewall grommet, and don't go into the dash board unless you have a few months of free time

 

 

I use colored tape whenever I need to cut a wire ..... .. . and then take months to figure out how to put it back together ..... :lol:

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So here is the pics. This is where my wires come through

9535578b.jpg

Then through there runs up along the fender frame rail and goes through this hole that I drilled through on the door frame where the door hinges bolt to.

8e0b04c2.jpg

And then goes through over the kick panels here

850897d0.jpg

The rest of all my wiring and relays mount under the dash. To get the wiper motor wires to go through I popped the pins out of the pin connecters and fed them through the existing hole on the firewall

00699859.jpg

Hope this makes things a little easyer.

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