datzenmike Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 is that what the vacuum advance line on my dizzy does? when I hooked it up tonight to the vacuum from the carb my idle rose almost 300 rpms No, it's one of 2 vacuum switches on the pass side fender. It grounds a white wire going to the dizzy. The hose going to the dizzy should be for the vacuum advance. There should be no vacuum present at idle (if you have the corect hose) This wouldn't prevent you from going over 30 anyway. You check/clean or replace the filter? Quote Link to comment
71DIMER Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I'm with siempreloco on this, when I had my 521 it was doing the EXACT same things you described. I installed a matchbox distributor and it solved the problem. Check that. Quote Link to comment
Skulptr Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 pardon my noobness, what is a "matchbox" dizzy? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 pardon my noobness, what is a "matchbox" dizzy? Matchbox is a nickname for the "IC ignition unit" bolted to the side of this type of Hitachi distributor. . Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 pardon my noobness, what is a "matchbox" dizzy? It's on electric ignition where the ignition control module us mounted on the dizzy outside the cap. Your is mounted inside the dizzy under the cap if I'm correct Quote Link to comment
Skulptr Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 How do I get my hands on one, and identify one at that... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 pardon my noobness, what is a "matchbox" dizzy? It's Nissan's Electronic Ignition or EI dizzy. It replaces the points with a magnetic pick-up and transistorized amplifier. Once installed and set, it needs only the cap and rotor replaced and no adjustments. Points limit the amount of electricity that can flow through them (without burning them up in 250 miles) whereas the EI dizzys can handle much more. Because of this a special coil is used that can draw more power through it and will produce a much hotter higher voltage output. (never use a points coil on an EI dizzy unless you keep the ballast resistor. if you do run the points coil you won't get the benefit of the higher voltage) There are two EI dizzys... the Remote Igniter and the Matchbox. Both work the same but the matchbox is a more compact design of the remote igniter. Remote Igniter dizzys have a large electronics box usually mounted under the dash. The remote igniter dizzy under the cap and rotor looks like this... Matchbox dizzys have a small black (match)box mounted on the side. Under the cap and rotor the matchbox dizzy looks like this... If using a high output EI dizzy it is always best to increase the plug gap to 0.038" - 0.042". This will give a longer more exposed spark. Be sure that your wiring is in good condition, after all you are now working with a higher voltage and it WILL find leaks to ground if there are any. Where to look for an EI dizzy for an L 4 cylinder??? All '78 S10 (200sx), A10 (later HL510) and 620 trucks had the remote igniter installed. From '76 to '78 only California models with L20B engines has the remote igniters in them. All L20Bs from '79 through '80 had the matchbox dizzys. The 1980 non-California S110 (second gen 200sx) had a 4 plug matchbox dizzy on the Z series motor that will fit the L series. Canadian S110s had them in '80 and '81. All '79 and up cars with 4 cylinder single plug heads had matchbox ignitions. The dizzys won't all interchange but the matchbox module will. Even some inline 6 cylinder zx cars but watch out! Some L28zx and L24 had a different module that will cause variable retarded ignition problems if used. The bad modules have a second set of terminals on the side. If you harvest an EI dizzy, always unbolt from the timing cover and take the matching pedestal. There are several kinds and mixing them can cause you extra work to get them properly timed. You may come across the modules in your travels, so it's good to know the right ones to get or collect: Always use the module marked E12-80 .Do not use those marked E12-93. Note the side terminal... These are on later 280zx and Maxima L24s with EFI. If used on a 4 cylinder dizzy the timing will retard when revved up. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 So E12-93 would be perfect for a turbo engine ... ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 So E12-93 would be perfect for a turbo engine ... ? Ha ha... could be. :lol: I've wondered myself about the E12 93 modules. I suspect, (but don't know) that the zx and Maxima EFI ECUs may have the ability to retard ignition or advance it electronically. Maybe they have a knock sensor in the block or head and the signal goes to the ECU which adds retard? I just don't know and the manuals don't go into details of operation. Having the second set of terminals unused on a 4 cylinder (the E12-93 is a 6 cylinder module) does do some weird things to the timing as the motor revs. Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 so did any figure this out Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 I been wondering how he got stranded? It still went 30 mph. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 I drove 15 miles home stuck in 1st and only the fast idle set. Quote Link to comment
Skulptr Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 It would get to 30 and die had to stop to get started again. And trying to hold 20mph with a load of trash in pitch black on a 75mph road with no taillights or hazards wasnt a good idea. so I got towed home on a flat bed finally about 10, tore into the fuel system, starting at the carb and working back. Found that screen on the weber (thought an in line screen was the reference, was too tired to think). The screen was covered in a reddish brown sediment, mostly from the old fuel lines sitting open to the elements in the engine bay. sprayed the screen, plug, and y with carb cleaner then put it back together. moved back to the pump and filter. The lines were all dried up and old, so I picked up a few feet of 5/16 fuel line, a few cheap plastic filters (see through for a reason), and pulled it all apart. First thing I found was the fuel flowing from the filter was red. Turn the pump upside down, output was clear but input was red. Put new line on everything, put the filter in, was about to put the pump back when I noticed the bottom comes off, to reveal yet another screen/filter, and it was full. Cleaned it out with carb cleaner, cleaned the pump cavity out cause it was just as bad. Put it all together, took it for a drive. So far so good. drove for a half hour no problems. But I left that clear filter where I can see it, and its got quite a bit of crap in it already. but I was expecting that, thats why I bought an extra. For 3 bucks a piece and they come with hose and 4 clamps, theyre worth every penny, just the clamps are worth that. now to figure out why I have no brake lights. I pulled the plug off the switch for the pedal. Have power to one wire, but none to the other. I'm assuming its just a circuit switch, so I jumpered the 2, still no brake lights. My signals work, my hazards switch isn't working though. Is there a relay somewhere for the brake lights? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Good to hear ! ... your going to have to have your fuel tank dipped, boiled, and coated ... or replace it all together ... check the fuel line condition as well.during replacement ... Check grounds in tailights ... test voltage at brake lights ... trace from there Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 If the ground is no good none of the rear lights will work. The hazard switch.. work it forward and back a dozen times to clean the contacts. You have power on one wire to the brake switch? Must be the Yellow/Red stripe wire. You jumpered it to the other wire Yellow/Blue stripe and still no tail lights??? Check the 10 pin connector on the floor under the pass seat. This is where the cab harness joins the frame harness to the rear. Unplug a few times to clean the contacts. Check the Yellow/Blue stripe wire for power. If no power something is wrong between here and the brake switch. If good go to the back of the truck. There s a round connecter joining the frame harness to the rear tail light harness. Wiggle the connector and or unplug several times to clean the connectors. Check the Yellow/Blue wire on the frame for power. If none the problem is between here and the plug under the seat. Reconnect the plug and check the Yellow/Red wire on the tail light harness for power. If there go to the tail light and replace the burned out bulbs. Or just go there first. :lol: Quote Link to comment
Skulptr Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 bulbs are fine, since the turn signals work and they use the same filament as the brakes would. And the tail lights work. Will have to diagnose later. So pics of the fuel pump. First bad sign inside the pump after the gas and carb cleaner evaporated Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 looks like it was never cleaned its all good now Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Also note that he has an '86, so the brake lights feed through the turn signal switch (80-84 720s had independent brake/turn lights but 85-86 don't). If the "center" contacts of the turn signal switch get corroded, dirty, or wore out the brake lights stop working. Quote Link to comment
Skulptr Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Il post a pic of the new filters current condition tomorrow, its almost full already Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 bulbs are fine, since the turn signals work and they use the same filament as the brakes would. And the tail lights work. Will have to diagnose later. I'm pretty sure the 720 brake bulbs have a second filament for the running lights and the signal has it's own bulb. Quote Link to comment
Hardwyre Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Huh, someone filled your fuel tank with chocolate pudding instead of gasoline. Quote Link to comment
Skulptr Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 The brake light bulb shares the second filament on the main bulb used for the brake. There are 2 smaller single filament bulbs at the top and bottom of the lens casing that illuminate when the running lights are on. When the main dual filament bulb was missing, the left signal stayed steady, once I put the new bulb in it illuminates both running and bright (signal/brake filament). Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 I do beleave that the problem is that the tank sat for a long time, and rusted. The crap they sell/pass off as gasoline these days separates in as little as a couple months in older metal vented tanks, then starts to rust them out. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 That's because alcohol is in the gasoline, and water moisture and alochol make a corrosive blend. But usually it is no problem, I've been running it for over 20 years and haven't had a tank rust out. If you keep your tank sealed (as it was designed) and don't simply vent to the air it will help. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 That's because alcohol is in the gasoline, and water moisture and alochol make a corrosive blend. But usually it is no problem, I've been running it for over 20 years and haven't had a tank rust out. If you keep your tank sealed (as it was designed) and don't simply vent to the air it will help. My aux. tank is worthless, it is ruined for gas till I take it out and seal it, it has no holes in it, but if I put fuel in it, and then switch to that tank, the engine dies, when I finally get it going again, I don't use that tank again, then I drain that tank when I have the time, that I filled less than a week ago, the fuel starts coming out orange, then cleans up, but if you pour the clean fuel in a clear container, and let it sit for 5 minutes, it separates into two distincted layers, this fuel is less than a week old, new/fresh fuel may also do this separation thing, I have not tried it with fuel strait out of the pump yet, actually I am not sure I want to know, as it will likely aggravate me. Quote Link to comment
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