'69 521... toys toYS TOYS!!

[DAT510]

How did the J13 to L swap go?

I desperately need to do it..

That J13 is a go kart engine :lol: no not really, but I never liked push rod engines.. I love your truck btw!! really awesome!

[poltroon]

i canned the first 2 plans for ball joint conversion, now I have parts on order for idea #3. Not here yet, so, as a result, no conversion yet. (consequently, option1 parts were resold, thanks wayne. Option2 parts are for sale.. someone please buy them, ill be your best friend, for realZ.)

 

I also havent started on the engine conversion yet... like 99% of the parts on hand. BUT, i just want to repaint the engine bay and shorten the steering column before I actually start this. SO.. the parts sit while I finish taking everything else apart.

 

The above two are the biggest reasons I've been doing small crap instead of anything big. Not to mention i've ordered a narrowed rear axle from jesusn02, if he ever finishes dickin' around with that goon, ill get an lsd rear end with disc brakes to complete the drivetrain.

 

so much shit going on, yet I have so little visual progress to show for it.

 

oh, and I started cutting out the passenger side floors too, rusted through... needs a new piece welded in. driver side is heavily pitted from rust too, but not sure it needs replacement, so ill finish cleaning it up and primer...

 

... and the wife asks why I just didnt buy a new car... wtf does she know anyway :P

[Z chopper]

... and the wife asks why I just didnt buy a new car... wtf does she know anyway :P

 

it is not what she knows but who she knows.......you. well that is my guess anyways

[poltroon]

yeah, well.. the car guy in me was dead for a long time.. until this lil datsun, i WOULD have just bought a new one. something about this lil truck brought all those years i loved to wrench back in one giant cacophony of clanking wrenches :thumbup: So, ill just keep buying her flowers as long as she lets me relive my 20's through this lil toy... yea, ok, prolly after that too, but damn it dont push your luck.

[Z chopper]

well maybe the reason that she lets you wrench away on the truck is because she knows you and like any wife/girlfriend etc...they will tease us guys to the ends of the earth.

[mklotz70]

cool ute nice build any updates on the front ball joint conversion???

 

I would be his hold up on this. :) lol

 

 

[poltroon]

so i picked up the glass for my windows... and i just cant get the regulator to sit right so the window doesnt fall, dip, or otherwise piss me off. So, despite my wish for mechanical windows, looks like i have to get a set of electric regulators... i think they make switches that look like roller handles, gonna try and find those.

 

*sigh*

 

oh well, if it was easy, everyone would do it, right?

[mklotz70]

http://www.electric-life.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=24&cat=Replacement+Switches

[mrbigtanker]

so i picked up the glass for my windows... and i just cant get the regulator to sit right so the window doesnt fall, dip, or otherwise piss me off. So, despite my wish for mechanical windows, looks like i have to get a set of electric regulators... i think they make switches that look like roller handles, gonna try and find those.

 

*sigh*

 

oh well, if it was easy, everyone would do it, right?

dude your doing it,and thanks for the effort for the rest of us.it will come out just fine when your done.

[poltroon]

cut out some cancer... of course, the truck is just about 10' too far from my welder to put the new piece in. wtf, i need a bigger garage.

 

 

now to figure out how to resolve the distance to welder issue... lol

[DAT510]

extension cord..

[DAT510]

unless it's 110v or 220 or whatever the round plug is.

[poltroon]

yeah, its 240v.. i built a cord from a dryer cord... 6' is about as long as i can get

 

[mklotz70]

You can go to Home Depot and buy wire buy the foot. Use the same female plug you have, but replace the dryer cord with this. They have the plug there too. This is my 20' extension for my welders....175A mig and a 200A tig. They have SJOOW and SOOW(new designations for SO and SJO cables). For what you're doing, there's really no difference expect for the price and one has thicker insulation.

 

Here's the actual differences:

SO cable is designed to be coiled and recoiled repeatedly (thicker jacket)

SJ is Tray Cable and not designed to be coiled and recoiled (thinner jacket)

 

 

 

 

 

 

[poltroon]

Thanks Mike (and dat, since... you essentially said the same thing)! I didnt see any cable that would carry the current that far, but i was looking in the pre-built cable sections... me and that tiny little box i always forget to think out side of.

[poltroon]

alright, got me a 20' extension now. One hell of a cable, but it works. now on to pressing matters with that welder...

 

oic of a cable.. exciting:

[mklotz70]

:)

[wayno]

so i picked up the glass for my windows... and i just cant get the regulator to sit right so the window doesnt fall, dip, or otherwise piss me off. So, despite my wish for mechanical windows, looks like i have to get a set of electric regulators... i think they make switches that look like roller handles, gonna try and find those.

 

*sigh*

 

oh well, if it was easy, everyone would do it, right?

 

OK, so I messed around with the window roll up and down issues today, basicly I would like to know your issue, is the front part of the window hanging up, with the result being the back upper part of the window pulls out of the track?

That is the issue I had today, I found the window was out of balance, I added a lot of weight to the rear of the window, and it seemed like it might fix the issue.

I used plywood, the same thickness of the glass, as the plexiglass was way to expensive, so it doesn't slide as well in the tracks, but I also added piece below the bottom back about 6 inches lower, I also moved the bottom window holder about 2 inches forward.

You can see what I did to the lower right of the window, I added a piece of plywood, and a hunk of metal to that piece.

 

Now you can basicly add weight or somehow connecting a bungee cord to the lower back that gets tighter the farther the window goes up, as all my issues began after it was about half way up.

The glass has to slide easier that the plywood did, you can tack some kind of attachment on the holder to attach things to, that would give you a reason to use your new welder, you only tack it to the glass holder piece, don't try to run an ark, it will just warp the metal, and remove it from the glass, as the sparks will permanently mark the glass.

Does this sound like the issue you were having?

Are the photos below sorta what your window was doing?

 

 

[mrbigtanker]

OK, so I messed around with the window roll up and down issues today, basicly I would like to know your issue, is the front part of the window hanging up, with the result being the back upper part of the window pulls out of the track?

That is the issue I had today, I found the window was out of balance, I added a lot of weight to the rear of the window, and it seemed like it might fix the issue.

I used plywood, the same thickness of the glass, as the plexiglass was way to expensive, so it doesn't slide as well in the tracks, but I also added piece below the bottom back about 6 inches lower, I also moved the bottom window holder about 2 inches forward.

You can see what I did to the lower right of the window, I added a piece of plywood, and a hunk of metal to that piece.

 

Now you can basicly add weight or somehow connecting a bungee cord to the lower back that gets tighter the farther the window goes up, as all my issues began after it was about half way up.

The glass has to slide easier that the plywood did, you can tack some kind of attachment on the holder to attach things to, that would give you a reason to use your new welder, you only tack it to the glass holder piece, don't try to run an ark, it will just warp the metal, and remove it from the glass, as the sparks will permanently mark the glass.

Does this sound like the issue you were having?

Are the photos below sorta what your window was doing?

 

 

I just got to say wow Wayno,that is cool of you to get this figured out and of course to you Poltroon,if you guys can get this to a science that would be the start of a new beginning of a great thing.

[mklotz70]

Wayne.....how about a pic like the first one, but with the window all the way down. I'm wondering if you can slice the arm about middle and turn it up at an angle so that it will support the window in the middle. I'm sure that would work, but I'm not sure if it would let the window come all the way down still. If it does work, I'd probably cut a plate out of 14ga and weld it over the joint for support. If it doesn't go all the way down because if runs out of gear, you might be able to splice a bit more on from another crank assembly. Just a thought.

[wayno]

Wayne.....how about a pic like the first one, but with the window all the way down. I'm wondering if you can slice the arm about middle and turn it up at an angle so that it will support the window in the middle. I'm sure that would work, but I'm not sure if it would let the window come all the way down still. If it does work, I'd probably cut a plate out of 14ga and weld it over the joint for support. If it doesn't go all the way down because if runs out of gear, you might be able to splice a bit more on from another crank assembly. Just a thought.

 

 

I thought about that, but I was worried that I would not be able to get the window all the way down.

 

As you can see below, there is only a little left, I suppose I could cut the stopper on the bottom, and see how much lower I can go, it's a sacrifice door anyway.

What I really need is a bad window roller transmission to cut and test, but all I have at the moment out of the doors is good ones, I might go out there tomarrow and see if there are any loose/sloppy ones I can sacrifice.

I was also thinking about cutting a 720 door to see how they did it, as none of them have wing windows.

The counter weight does work, but if one hits a bump the right way while driving and rolling the window down at the same time, it could screw it up.

I did move the window holder over about an inch and a half to two inches, but that was as far as I could go, another half an inch, and the roller could come out of it's channel.

[poltroon]

So, thats ONE of the issues I was having, others were tilting under motion (if not fully up), tilting during 'spirited' rolling up or down, and last but not least coming out of the rails if my elbow was on it. I did some other things like rocked the truck to simulate motion.. this caused the window to tip forward every time. I found that adding weight to the back, as you did worked "most" of the time, but what would happen is the window would bind for some reason, then the window would come out of the track or tip or... I dunno, mine isnt open :)

 

It seemed to have to do with the greater area of friction on the large part of the window compared to the new front with little friction zone, of course combined with the imbalance of the arm... the weight added resolved the balance, but as I say, under certain situations it was still too easy for the window to come out... and as far as im concerned, ANY situation where the window comes out means its not viable.

 

I tried a variety of things, including added length to the window support frame so it was the full window width (I welded on about 12" on one side, then tried 6" on each side later.) relocated the roller spot inward, as you did... weighted the back. I even tried shortening the arm to get it more central, figured I could live with a partially open window in the down position still, nothing I did felt secure enough if there was any motion in the truck. Also, I was using MDF, 1/4inch. It was roughly the same size as the glass, and smooth too.

 

The glass is roughly 1/3 thicker then the original glass. Fits snug, but not snug enough to make it hard to roll. All the same problems as with the mdf, only worse because.. well, its glass. Weighted rails werent enough to prevent glass from rolling forward and off the regulator arm unless i used a LOT of weight, which caused it to be hard to roll up... In the end, even though i could brake 4 windows before it costs more then the auto windows... i feel safer not having to worry about the roller all the time.. last thing I need is my 6yo in there one day and the window go haywire...

 

yea, uh, eff that. thats what finally sent me to go the auto windows. my son was sitting in the driver side while I was dickin' around with the passenger window. I looked over and realized he was rolling the window up and down.. brain of a 6yo, but this kids big... like 10yo size big. After all the little issues i was having, watching him with that roller convinced me.

[mklotz70]

Thanks Wayne. Interesting. On more modern cars, they use clips on the back of the window to keep the glass from tipping forward.....but I don't remember how the clip attached to the glass. I think it was my '90 Lumina that had them.

 

You may need to find the balance point of the window, not just the center point. If you lean it up again a smooth wall with the bottom of the window out just enough to keep if from tipping away from the wall.....then put a dowel or pencil under the bottom as a fulcrum. Provide the top of the window doesn't drag on the wall much, you should be able to move the fulcrum fore/aft and find where the window balances. Mark it with a sharpie and then try to get the window lift under that point. Problem is that as the arm goes up and down, that point will change. The window will want to tip back going up because of drag and forward coming down because of drag.

 

I wonder if something like a scissor lift could be incorporated. Another arm, crossing the first in an X, with the bottom attached back to the main arm so that as it lifts and the angle changes, the X will get narrower, but it will hold the window up in two places, offsetting the drag.

 

tristingrind just started a 3D CAD modeling thread....you might see if he can model up a something. I can see it in my head, but I'm not sure I'm going to have any time in the next few days.

[mklotz70]

Like the scissor one on this page......

 

http://www.electric-life.com/shopcontent.asp?type=Explanation_Power_Windows

 

 

Of course, if you want to go power, it would be a lot easier to just buy the one above it. :)

[poltroon]

saw a couple beds with rockers, thought it looked cool, so here's my version:

 

which, turns into:

 

 

wow, I need to cut weeds too, wth...