Thermostat housing?

[fisch]

Anyone have the upper and lower thermostat housing for an L-16? That long bolt would be cool too!

 

I know I can get them on e-bay and elsewhere, just wanted to check in with the Ratsun posse first.

 

And really... i just wanted to bitch about what a PITA the little job of putting in a new t-stat turned into. Every friggin bolt broke! Even with PD blaster. And the long bolt was rusted all the way down its sleeve and I couldn't get the housing off the head. So being paranoid that forcing it would strip the threads in the head- I cut out the entire wall of the sleeve all the way down the housing to get that long bolt out of there.:mad:

 

The good news is that I got the bolts off w/o stripping out the head. And I needed to replace the upper and lower housing in the end anyway because the cavitation inside was to the point that coolent could get around the t-stat. (Makes me wonder what my water pump looks like!)

 

Here is a photo of the nasty dissection to get that long bolt out. But if anyone has an upper and lower (or just a lower) on the cheap, let me know!

 

[hang_510]

:cursing:

what a PITA, i thought when i broke mine i was gonna have issues, luckily the nub came out w/vice grips :D

 

 

next JY visit get a spare(or 2) they fall nicely into a large pocket :sneaky:

[datzenmike]

Any L will fit as long as you have the temp sender in it, even the 280 z ones with three bolt top thermostat cover.

 

Probably corrosion more than cavitation.

 

In a liguid, if a propeller travells fast enough the water on the trailing low pressure side cannot move fast enough to stay against the blade's surface and forms a short lived void. The void will collapse at sonic speeds transferring it's energy to the blade and causing noise and wear.

Although the collapse of a cavity is a relatively low energy event, highly localized collapses can erode metals, such as steel, over time. The pitting caused by the collapse of cavities produces great wear on components and can dramatically shorten a propeller or pump's lifetime.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

fisch I have the part#s at work

I can give tomorrow.

Do you have a bypass from lower housing to the intake hotwater line or not.

There wer 2 version on the L16s

 

also have part# for the 16mm hex nut that holds the tempsender in.use pipe tape

 

I use anti seize

[fisch]

Thanks for the offer HAinz! I actually have the #'s for the top and bottom and tracked them through Nissan. They still have a number of top pieces, but not so many bottoms. Though the bottom # has changed. And I never could find the part # for the 16MM hex nut so I'd love to know it if you find it!

 

I just have the single out to the radiator.

 

Nicely, already a few of our Ratsun brothers have contacted me to help me out with the parts (for a LOT cheaper than Nissan and E-bay). THANKS GUYS!

 

And if it hasn't been said enough, THIS PLACE ROCKS!!

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Fisch i had a similar problem w/ my lower housing. The lower portion of the bolt threads were stripped & wouldnt tighten that much. I ended up putting a large amount of blue RTV on the tip of the bolt & turning the ratchet very slow while applying alot of downward pressure.

[phatdave]

I have 2 spare sets not sure what motor they are from.

[banzai510(hainz)]

lower L16 housing with bypass hole, using U shaped rubber hose to hot water line that goes to intake under carb

11061-P0300

 

Housing with NO hole

11061-21000

 

16mm nut to hold sender 25251-37700

 

buy a spare

[fisch]

lower L16 housing with bypass hole, using U shaped rubber hose to hot water line that goes to intake under carb

11061-P0300

 

Housing with NO hole

11061-21000

 

16mm nut to hold sender 25251-37700

 

buy a spare

 

Thanks Hainz, you rock!

[moparvwfreak]

 

16mm nut to hold sender 25251-37700

 

buy a spare

 

you just saved me a whole lot of headaches as well. THANK YOU!!!!!

[banzai510(hainz)]

most time the hex nut will not come off and cracks the lower housing

 

So I bought a 2 lower housinga and Hex sleeve nut to hold the senders in.

 

Then always blow out the threads with air and use anti seize.

 

pipe tape on the hex.

 

if you have good lower housings and the sender isgood keep as spares or yank them off cars in the Junk yard.

[Phlebmaster]

5 minute job turns into hell!!:lol:

 

I wish I had never taken that stupid bolt out of the housing!! The short one broke off in the head...had to drill it out and retap. Ok...right??

 

Wrong..the long bolt will not come out of the housing..like fisch's, and the tip stripped out on the bolt and I will have to press out the long one...AAAAHHHH!!:mad:

At least the head is ok....Looks like I will be shopping for a new lower housing and bolts. What is with this particular piece that makes this happen??:confused: Crap!!

[hang_510]

What is with this particular piece that makes this happen??:confused: Crap!!

 

water! & no coolant(=rust inhibitor) combine with the oxidation of steel & aluminum.

 

its happened to me a few times and i still look for spares!

ive broken many in the JY :fu:

[Phlebmaster]

I always wanted to take a JY trip..LOL

 

I will wear baggy pants with large pockets:lol: ....does it matter if I get the housing off of an L18-L20?? Or does it have to come off an L16?

[hang_510]

nope! any L-series works - L24, L28 too :D

the diff will be the additional ports(bottom half) that can be blocked off.

keep yours in the car if your concerned about a match

 

remove a few of the temp senders (hex nut) too

[Phlebmaster]

Will do Brian :D

 

Thanks again!

[Z-train]

I powdercoated the entire housing.And i mean the entire housing except threads.Anti-seize on the threads and i should be dead before needing another one.

[datzenmike]

nope! any L-series works - L24, L28 too :D

the diff will be the additional ports(bottom half) that can be blocked off.

keep yours in the car if your concerned about a match

 

remove a few of the temp senders (hex nut) too

 

I have a housing from a Z car with three bolts holding the thermostat cover on. That would look different.

[]2eDeYe]

water! & no coolant(=rust inhibitor) combine with the oxidation of steel & aluminum.

 

its happened to me a few times and i still look for spares!

ive broken many in the JY :fu:

 

A little forethought here will help whoever get's your pickup down the road.

 

Mild steel and aluminum like to do funky things together. Use stainless bolts, you'll still have slight dis-similar metal issues, but nothing like the corrosion were seeing now, from the decision to use regular steel bolts back then ;)

[fisch]

Ahhh man I remember it like it was yesterday. A total PITA! I feel your pain.

I used a ton of antisieze when I put it back together. Especially where the long bolt goes through that sleeve. But I hope I don't have to take that off again for a long, long while!

[Phlebmaster]

Thanks for the moral support guys!! I beat this little bastard with a punch and a very big hammer, and used a whole can of WD-40....but I won after about an hour!!:lol:

 

I am so very happy.:):D;)

[AtomChurch]

i just used a easy out on two of my heads. [thermostat housing bolts broke] came right out. just as long as you don't break the easy out off. becasue once that happens its not easy anymore.

 

everytime my father tries to help me out and do the easy out for me he breaks them off.

[joelyjoeljumpin]

I had the back bolt thread strip out on the lower t-stat housing found a good one at the J/Y . $5.00 is reasonable for that part I have had rather good luck so far at pick n pull finding at least one 620 there . Also scored the inlet housing off a 280ZX while I was at it .