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74 620 alt/volt reg problems


reese

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I have a 74 620 with the stock 1.8L, one day the alt light started to flicker at start up and would go away after I drove for a minute. It happened for a week or so..then it stayed on all the time.

Tested volts at battery and it was 15.5! with truck running.

I replaced the alt with a rebuilt one but the light was still on.

Replaced the volt reg, light goes out, drove it for a week with no light.

Get in to leave, dead battery.

Load test battery, old and no good. Bought new battery and cables.

With everything new, I FINALLY get out the volt meter again and at the stud on the alt its 12.3v running at 1200 rpm..with lights on it drops to under 12v.

I put old reg back on and it is 14v at the stud and charge light is still on.

Is there any way to test the regulator, can I unhook the reg and test for voltage at the alt?

Is there anything that will fry the alt or reg?

I also unwrapped the harness and everything looked good, all stock and uncut.

Truck never had electrical problems before, everything electrical works.

What is next?

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What is next?

 

A conversion to an internally regulated unit. That factory Hitachi stuff is crap. And just because you have replaced these parts does not make them any good either. I have received numerous reman alternators that were BAD upon install. And dont even consider replacing the voltage regulator with a Napa Echlin brand. Complete Crap.

 

Sorry i dont have the answer for you, mine has a 63A GM alternator installed by a previous owner.

You might get ahold of Lynchfourtwenty, as he has been through a lot of this crap recently.

 

Jason

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Erik, my recommendation is a conversion to an internally regulated alternator. Either the 280zx/720/200sx 50 or 60a or the Saturn. I recommend the Saturn if you are doing it. I'm happy to give guidance, if needed..

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Has anyone gone to an IR alt on a L16/18 motor? I tried a 82 720 but the larger case hit the idler arm or water neck on the block. There was very little clearance to adjust belt so I took it back and got the stock one. Is there a smaller 50amp IR one that goes on easier? How big is the Saturn one? Who has more info on this?

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Thanks for the help everyone..it was the regulator I bought a Baxters that was fked.. I bought another one and everything worked fine, at least now I have a new battery, cables, alt and reg. Hopefully that part of the 620 is good for a while. On to the rest of the broken shit..

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The original one in my truck was an old looking non OEM SS one, it overcharged..

The one I got at Baxters was in a Standard box but was not a Standard, it was in a galvanized case and the wires were all different colors..

the one I got on Ebay was a Standard USA made Solid State with the same color wires as the stock harness.. I bought two for 9.99 each!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250167811675

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My 75 620 with the stock regulator did the same thing; dash light on all the time though voltage was correct. I removed the regulator mounting screws then retightened them and it has worked correctly since. The dash light relay is grounded through the regulator body!

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Has anyone gone to an IR alt on a L16/18 motor? I tried a 82 720 but the larger case hit the idler arm or water neck on the block. There was very little clearance to adjust belt so I took it back and got the stock one. Is there a smaller 50amp IR one that goes on easier? How big is the Saturn one? Who has more info on this?

 

Use the 720 mount to block and an L28 lower rad return pipe at the block and it will clear... barely. I had to put the tighter belt on first then the through bolts on the alt. 60 Amp!

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/motoraltmountsZtopandL.jpg[/img]"]motoraltmountsZtopandL.jpg

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Just curious as to what Alt. is in a Datsun 810 sedan with the L24? IR or not? I found one at the local WY today. This thing was loaded with all kinds of power options and A/C. Figured the alt would be a big one. SO....I grabbed it and the lower mount. The mount had one stud in it for the forward most mounting point. Now I can see why. Pain the ass. You can't get the rear mounting bolt in (it's spaced differant than the original) but, it should work out just fine.

 

Jester

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The paint marker on the fender said "79. I didn't see any regulator on the fender or under the plastic cover on the pass. side fender well. Should be good to go then, right?

 

Jester

BTW: I'm haveing the same problem Jimmy did. When I hook the Yellow and White wires together, the relay on the pass fender near the windshield clicks.

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[quote=banzai510(hainz);48454

WB short to WR

Y short to W

 

 

Yep. That's what I did. BUT, when I hook up the yellow to white wire, the small relay by the windshield on the pass. side trips. IS THIS NORMAL?????

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You know wht I think it has to do with the choke relay.

Look at the drawing again in the upper right. I assume the later 620s had this also.

in the Dime Quarterly Eleltrical section has the right up on what the choke relay does.

 

I dont have a eleltric choke option (relay)on my cars

 

Im only guess is if you have a manual choke weber or sidedrafts you would just discconect that relay. If using a eleltric choke go back to Dime Quarterly and read the article on the relay on what to do.

 

 

I still run external regs anyway

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