My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...

[DottiBlue]

Woo hoo!! Progress!!!

[510T]

:thumbup:  So glad to see this project moving forwards again! 

[JAKE719]

I just read through the entire thread, and when i saw at the beginning the date of the posts, yet saw it had recently been updated i figured it would be a completed project car, on the road making turbo sounds somewhere.

 

Sorry for all of the headaches you've been having with the car, and kudos to you for keeping your head on straight. I do have to say though, i HIGHLY recommend taking said company to court, and taking the car to a reputable body shop for proper work. Also, have the good shop document EVERYTHING they had to repair from the other shop. That way, when you take them to court, you'll have solid documentation showing that what the crap shop did actually caused more damage than anything, therefore no only costing you additional time and loss of sponsorship/etc, but more money and resources as well.

 

Just an idea!

 

By the way, hang in there. Also, MAJOR props to you for diving in as you have. While i dont always recommend diving in without experience, youre at least humble and smart enough to ask for help and suggestions as you go.

 

So, in a nutshell, GOOD JOB! Have at it, and take your time. Youre doing just fine!

 

-Jake

[SSSEXXX]

You plan on getting rid of thoes back seats ;)

 

Negative.  They are so pretty.

 

Woo hoo!! Progress!!!

 

Exactly how I feel too!!

 

:thumbup:  So glad to see this project moving forwards again! 

 

Thank you!! I'm glad to see it moving too!!

 

I just read through the entire thread, and when i saw at the beginning the date of the posts, yet saw it had recently been updated i figured it would be a completed project car, on the road making turbo sounds somewhere.

 

Sorry for all of the headaches you've been having with the car, and kudos to you for keeping your head on straight. I do have to say though, i HIGHLY recommend taking said company to court, and taking the car to a reputable body shop for proper work. Also, have the good shop document EVERYTHING they had to repair from the other shop. That way, when you take them to court, you'll have solid documentation showing that what the crap shop did actually caused more damage than anything, therefore no only costing you additional time and loss of sponsorship/etc, but more money and resources as well.

 

Just an idea!

 

By the way, hang in there. Also, MAJOR props to you for diving in as you have. While i dont always recommend diving in without experience, youre at least humble and smart enough to ask for help and suggestions as you go.

 

So, in a nutshell, GOOD JOB! Have at it, and take your time. Youre doing just fine!

 

-Jake

 

Thank you!! I sincerely appreciate the advice and the encouragement.  It really is priceless to me.  I will be the first to admit that I do not know a lot about any of this. I do have patiences and am not afraid to ask questions, research, ask more questions, do more research and then make a decision.  I have made so many mistakes, but I am getting better.  I couldn't and wouldn't be where I am at today if it were not for the countless members here putting up with all of my nonesonse and questions!! So thank you and and everyone else...

[SSSEXXX]

So when we last left off on this wonderful adventure kids, the doors had been completely gutted.  What I did not tell you all was that it was done with a deadline in mind.  The kind of all kings of breathing life in to Datsuns had humbly blessed me by agreeing to take on my project and I had to have her completely gutted and prepped for his arrival on late Sunday.  Being a man of such quality work and with about as good as a reputation as you can imagine, I did not want to disappoint him.  So I strapped on the gloves and prepared to get dirty, really, really, disgustingly awesome dirty....

 

 

So, with my goal weighing heavily on my mind I decided it was best to get some clarity and free my mind. Okay, okay, perhaps it was just about freeing some space and removing a dirty windshield. Whatever...

 

 

Boom, like magic, all done....

 

 

I was now free to move about the cabin....

 

 

So I did so and removed an otherwise annoying piece of the dash simply because I could....

 

[SSSEXXX]

So, after I began to felt like I had some momentum, I mustered up the courage to tackle the rear end in much the same way. Truth be told, I may have been avoiding my fears in handling the front and rear subframe. I had never taken one apart before. I thought it was complicated and extremely heavy. I kept envisioning that I would drop the car on myself and have to resort to begging my Indian neighbor to save my life, but this hypothetical was based on the idea that he spoke english and knew I wasn't recreationally lifting a car like they do on those Ironman ESPN shows. Damn it!! This was going to be ESPN's fault. Damn I was scared.

 

Back on point...

 

 

 

 

Then, before I knew it, all at once Project Miracle Whip was glass-less.....

 

 

Next up on the challenges to conquer, aka "avoiding jacking the car and a potential near death" was the dash....

 

[SSSEXXX]

Ah the dash. Perhaps it was my fear of the subframe, the looming deadline to completion, or just my overall lack of breaking to ingest anything besides Diet Coke but this got frustrating really quickly. When I took a step back, actually read my manual, searched on Ratsun, and took a deep breathe I came to the conclusion that I was and idiot and that the bezels fo the switches screwed off. Talk about making this one a lot easier after....

 

 

I used countless expletives trying to get the steering column out. I was afrait to damage the firewall because I could see it flexing as I cussed and pulled and twisted. So I resided to let it stay and hang out for a bit until I could google me some answers. So I decided it was time to man up and get her on jackstands. I had to conquer this fear of being crushed sooner or later right?

 

 

As I peered down into the empty shell, I almost felt like I had made a dent in disassembly...

 

 

 

 

I began to mentally gain confidence and figured "hey, if I die under a Datsun, there are way worse ways to go right?" So I stood back and took one last glorious look at her booty in the air...

 

 

Then I quickly shattered my own confidence when I gazed over to the left and had the fear of the Datsun God's shot inside me. "How the hell am I going to put all this back together? What the hell do I know about car building? It looks like my car exploded in to neatly organized piles with labels. I am pretty sure that there is some country out there where they give you this as a torture method. Am I going to be selling all this on eBay because I am the world's most retarded mechanic?"

 

 

I slapped myself out of it and decided not to look in that direction until it was time to clean up. I decided there wasn't room in this garage for both the front subframe and me. One of us had to go.....

 

 

 

[SSSEXXX]

Feeling good about my new found skill and dominance of the front subframe, I decided it was time I kicked that steering column's ass. I was tired of this rusty stick dictate my life. I also still had lingering doubts about my ability to handle the rear subframe...

 

Steering Column 0

Chris 1

 

 

Roaming around the carcass of what use to be a car, I took a step back again to see what I had done these last few hours...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then came my nemisis. The Joker to my Batman. The darkside of my force...

 

[SSSEXXX]

So, basically when taking apart the rear subframe there are six bolts on the top of the two rear shock tower mounts. Two more bolts on the cross-member and then two last ones in the mustache bar that hold the rear differential in place. A couple of brake lines and you are done. It is really that simple. Well, in theory anyway. Up to this point I had been extremely fortunate. Not one rusted or stripped bolt had slowed done my progress. I was so happy too. I needed every lucky break I got because it was 2pm and the car was to be picked up by 4pm. I left the mustache bar bolts in and cleared through everything else. Fatigue, hungry, hours of consecutive work were not helping either i'm sure. The mustache bar bolts stripped and I thought all was lost.

 

In a rage of anger and frustration I decided to get a Diet Coke and lay down on the street in front of my garage in the sun. As I got hotter and hotter I remembered seeing someone heat a rusted bolt up and then it unbolted like magic. I don't exactly qualify as a mechanical expert, but I figured I had two choices. Accept defeat and disappoint the King of Datsuns or man up, take a risk and make it happen. I chose the second option. Shockingly, it actually worked. I have no idea how or why, I just know it did...

 

 

 

Finally, after hours of work and about six lifetimes worth of experience, she was ready to be sent off for a proper rotisserie restoration...

 

 

 

She was loaded up and prepped with the help of some of the nicest people I have met in a very long time. I do not want to disclose who the car went to until I get his official permission to let anyone know. Also, if you have an idea, please do not call him and tell him that you know me or I sent you unless you actually talk to me privately first.

 

 

 

Then, it was off to clean the garage. Ever wonder what a Datsun looks like in a garage without a body? Well, here you go...

 

 

Now it is time for a couple of days of research before I begin to tackle the rear and front subframes. Anyone and everyone with advice, please help any way you can. I love hearing how I can or could do things better. I'm still learning every day!!

[Hyspeedz]

This is the most fascinating thread ever. Best wishes to you upon the successful completion of your project. I have learned so much from this saga. I am confident that you will complete this project in a manner worthy of your values.

[SSSEXXX]

@Hyspeedz - Thanks! I am hoping I can get her there.  It has been a long road and there is still so much farther to go.

 

The parts sitting in my garage got pretty overwhelming pretty quickly.  So I decided that I would break her down in to sections and work piece by piece through each section so that the reality of how much I have to do doesn't leave me in tears.  First off was the rear subframe. 

 

Here is what I am thinking for the rear subframe at the moment. Any and all commentary, opinions, or thoughts welcome and don't be shy...

Datsport DIY Adjustable Rear Crossmember kit
-Also enlarge exhaust opening for 3" exhaust.

-Can't find a source for the Penultimate version everyone keeps talking about.  Am I missing something?
Recondition my rear control arms.
-Need to research what modification may be necessary.
New wheel studs
New bearing kit
New bushings
Troy Emerish rear coilovers
R200 Diff
Mustache Bar
-Still researching
Wolf Creek Racing Half Shaft & Axel Kit
-Still looking for cheaper alternatives as this car won't be tracked

[dennis]

the rear crossmember I would go with the Futo Fab unit:  http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:datsun-510-rear-cambertoe-adjusters&catid=22&Itemid=22

 

I wouldnt run a R200, that is just too much.  Get a R180 and weld that bitch up or get a Nismo LSD for it.  If you want to run CV's run the Ermish or Wolf Creek on the R180.  It will bolt right in.

[SSSEXXX]

@dennis - Hey buddy! Its been a long time my friend.  I see you're still the plethora of help and information for me.  One day when we meet, I am definitely going to owe you a nice dinner.  Which R180 are you going to run or are running on your car?  The 04-06 Subarus have 3.90 ratios, but I am not sure if they are 25 or 27 splined.  Either way there is an adapter out there for it.  I'm giong to spend another week research and then start purchasing what I don't have.  Breakdown of the rear subframe starts this weekend if I can get to it.  So busy these days!!

[dennis]

@dennis - Hey buddy! Its been a long time my friend.  I see you're still the plethora of help and information for me.  One day when we meet, I am definitely going to owe you a nice dinner.  Which R180 are you going to run or are running on your car?  The 04-06 Subarus have 3.90 ratios, but I am not sure if they are 25 or 27 splined.  Either way there is an adapter out there for it.  I'm giong to spend another week research and then start purchasing what I don't have.  Breakdown of the rear subframe starts this weekend if I can get to it.  So busy these days!!

 

 

Depends on what gear ratio you want.  I am eventually going to run a front 720 "K" diff.

[Butch_6sic6]

Hey just joined the forum and let me just say thank you for starting this build and pushing foward.

I would love to start the same project as soon as I move to a more spacious home.

Unfortunatlely I live in South Africa and these 510's are pretty rare esspecially the 2 doors, but I think i'll go for the 4 door as well.

 

Thanks again and keep it up. :thumbup:

[sal]

Man what a cool thread i have enjoyed so much until you hit that road bump. But people like that are real too bad. Just keep up the hard work and bring her back to life any of us would. I hope to see her all painted an all, any way good luck dude.

[SSSEXXX]

@Butch_6sic6 - Thank you! If I can ever help, let me know.

 

@sal - Thank you! I will keep her moving, don't you worry...

 

Hi everyone! I didn't want anyone to think I was getting too sidetracked. I've been enjoying my rear subframe research and learning about what parts I really do need and more importantly, why. I think a lot of people build things they don't entirely understand, but know that is what most people do. I try to really know why. For example, it seems pretty obvious that you can't really go wrong with a lighter r180 rear differential versus an r200 which does seem to be more and more like overkill. Even for a well balanced, tracked 510. The real complication is understanding and finding the right r180 to transplant. Do you go newer Subaru LSD or older Nissan with a NISMO LSD swapped in? I originally thought, "well I have to take whatever differential I get apart anyway right?" Then there is the whole ratio conversation. I have seemed to settle in to accept a 3.90 versus a 4.11. But I want to really know which is better for my build and my needs.

 

In the mean time, I have been active deciding how in depth I want to go on the details. I am pretty anal retentive. So I went and sprung for a vibratory tumbler. For obvious reasons, I want to do as much as I can on my own. So I will clean each and every bolt before I send them off for cadmium plating. The idea of having a giant bucket of bolts has me a little scared, but i think I've accepted it. I'm just happy to be nearing the end of the dirty, rusty phase. So to celebrate, I began to clean up the garage. Moved everything to one side, etched and cleaned the concrete and then Rhino coated one half the floor. After a week, I'll switch sides and do it again. I also have 4 1000lb capacity dollies en route to help me roll around the front and rear sub frames.

 

 

 

[jrock4224]

holy shit man that looks offical there.,...whens the velvet rope come in.... nice work

[DottiBlue]

Floor looks good. Now for some real lighting!!!

[SSSEXXX]

jrock4224 - Thanks man!! Still got half to go though!

 

DottiBlue - Way ahead of you! Eight T8 bulbs are in and bright. Although I'm considering adding more that are not wired in to the switch that I can turn in for when I need it. Next up is finish the other half of the floor, paint the walls a super glossy light grey (almost white) and then figure out a work bench on the cheap. Thinking split L shaped table in the right corner recess. Half metal and half ikea butcher block.

[Butch_6sic6]

BTW Have you decided what size radiator & intercooler you'll use?

And where to mount air filter, cuz ive seen guys mount it on a intake pipe in the left hand corner and then ive even saw someone mount a filter directly to the turbo dont know wich is best.

[paradime]

Here is what I am thinking for the rear subframe at the moment. Any and all commentary, opinions, or thoughts welcome and don't be shy...

 

Datsport DIY Adjustable Rear Crossmember kit

-Also enlarge exhaust opening for 3" exhaust.

-Can't find a source for the Penultimate version everyone keeps talking about.  Am I missing something?

Recondition my rear control arms.

-Need to research what modification may be necessary.

New wheel studs

New bearing kit

New bushings

Troy Emerish rear coilovers

R200 Diff

Mustache Bar

-Still researching

Wolf Creek Racing Half Shaft & Axel Kit

-Still looking for cheaper alternatives as this car won't be tracked

 

 

 

Epic thread man.  just finished reading through it and I must say my heart was broken by your plight, but I'm impressed with your calm determination though. Even in the harshest situations you've shown the kind of character that truly demonstrates just how much you deserve a GREAT 510. I can absolutely relate to what you've been through, because I just finished an SR 510 build that had it's share of drama. I took my car to a shop to have the harness installed, the fuel lines run, and the car started and tuned.  That was supposed to take two months and cost $4,500, but one BS story after another, and delay after delay I found a year later they had hacked the hell out of my car and couldn't even get it to start. I was already into them for $12K and  then they told me the engine was bad and needed to be rebuilt. Twas a very painful bump in the road, but fortunately this is a story that ends well. With some of my own calm determination I finally have a bad ass 510. Stick with it man, I can tell you from experience, it's all worth it, and in the end you'll know you've earned it.

 

In response to your post above regarding your rear suspension, it sounds like you've got the bases covered. The Datsport DIY kit is essentially the same thing as their Penultimate X-member but you do the work. Great setup BTW. As for the diff you definitely want to go with an R180, but can I offer a recommendation? The Subaru WRS sti 2005-07 used an R180 LSD that has modern clutch plates. They're much newer too, and you can find them floating around for between $450 to $600. The only difference is they require 27 spline stub shafts, where the 510's are 25. There is a company however called Beta Motor Sports who makes 27 spline stubs that will bolt to your new WC axles for the low low price of $500 a pair. I know, the price is outrageous, but unless you have a CNC machine in your tool box they have you over a barrel. One more thing, If your getting Troys coil overs you may want to look at his CV axles too. There's a lot of back and forth as to witch is better, but if your getting both maybe he'll swing you a deal.

 

Moving forward just remember Today is the first day of the rest of your build. Best of luck from here on out.

 

 

 

[dennis]

Epic thread man.  just finished reading through it and I must say my heart was broken by your plight, but I'm impressed with your calm determination though. Even in the harshest situations you've shown the kind of character that truly demonstrates just how much you deserve a GREAT 510. I can absolutely relate to what you've been through, because I just finished an SR 510 build that had it's share of drama. I took my car to a shop to have the harness installed, the fuel lines run, and the car started and tuned.  That was supposed to take two months and cost $4,500, but one BS story after another, and delay after delay I found a year later they had hacked the hell out of my car and couldn't even get it to start. I was already into them for $12K and  then they told me the engine was bad and needed to be rebuilt. Twas a very painful bump in the road, but fortunately this is a story that ends well. With some of my own calm determination I finally have a bad ass 510. Stick with it man, I can tell you from experience, it's all worth it, and in the end you'll know you've earned it.

 

the only way you are going to do a 4500.00 sr build is if you are using junkyard parts. 

[SSSEXXX]

@Butch_6sic6 - Nope, I haven't decided those things yet.  My paint guy gave me a good tip on the cooling suggestions and already has a template for it, so I may very well go that route for the sake of being great adivce and simplicity.  As far as the intake goes, most likely off a tube and a litle farther to cooler, fresh air, but I need to do more research.

 

@paradime - I greatly appreciate all the kind words and the motivation.  It has been hard to remain calm and be focused, but I do believe in being a gentleman and letting karma do what is necessary.  I did dispute the charge with American Express for the deposit from the shop and I did receive it back.  Also, the shop owner did not appear in court and I was awarded a default judgment for what I believe the cost of the damages will be in total.  Collecting is a near impossibility, but it is now a matter of public record how he treats people and the poor quality of character that he has exhibited over and over.

 

Also, I am saddened to hear your story as no one deserves to be treated that way.  However, I will say that Dennis is very much on point although a little ambiguous with his commentary.  He is an amazing resource and has quite a wealth of knoweldge too.  Building a good quality SR20DET does take a bit more than you thought, but then again everyone has different expectations and I know that Dennis and I aim high and have very distinct attention to detail.  Borderline OCD I woudl say.  Thank you so, so much for the input, I am sure I may have some questions for you after I do some reading this weekend and figure out the costs of everything.  There is no cheap way about it really, but I think you are right about going the Troy route.  I also like that he is relatively local and is only a phone call away if I have issues.

 

@Dennis - Hey buddy!! I saw your car on eBay and let me say that it made me quite sad. I very much look up to you, the level of work you have done, and the amount of guidance you have given me.  I completely understand why your deteriorating health is an issue and I can understand why you need to sell the car.  I wish I could help, but more importantly I hope that this community does not lose you.  Your input has been invaluable to me and it would be a sad loss if you were not here to chime in when research fails me and some of the eager young others like me out there.  I do agree with you, the cost of a build like you and I do would not be around that price, but some are happy with a running SR20DET that they can slowly modify over time on their own.

 

If there is one lesson I have learned.  There are so few people you can trust to do as good of a job as you can do yourself, no matter your experience level.  My paint and body guy is the best and I trust him implicitly now that Project Miracle Whip is with him.  Other than that the Datsun family is truly a tight knit group of people that can help you help yourself, but you have to be willing to listen and learn.  Mistakes happen, just learn from each one.  If my thread can do that for anyone, then it was worth it.

[paradime]

Hey Guys, Your absolutely right, but $4.500 wasn't what I expected to pay for the whole build, not even a 10th of it in fact. My mistake if I gave that impression. I've read this thread and clearly Dennis is a knowledgeable and nice guy. I know respect is earned, so let me just say I'm sorry if I jumped in unannounced. I've owned 510s for over 30 years and I finally had the opportunity to build the dime of my Dreams. It's not a show car, but a purpose ground up built Auto-X car with a License plate. I fought long and hard to get that thing built, but I want you to know, even with all the heartbreaks it was worth it.  

 

 

 

 

 

Here's my rip off saga. The $4,500 they quoted was to plug in a brand new Wiring Specialties SR harness, run the stainless fuel line's, start it, and tune it. I bought a Link G4 ECU from these guys, and they were the only shop in my area qualified to tune it. Turns out they weren't qualified to work on it. They uploaded the wrong base map to the ECU. I have an S13 blacktop so it should have been uploaded with the J5 map. Those monkeys uploaded the E5 map and proceeded to tare apart my car trying to make it work, because the pinouts are in totally different places. The whole time they're saying this harness is a piece of shit, and Yury at Wiring Specialties is saying it's a brand new OEM harness. So I'm stuck in the middle while money is flying out the door. It was a nightmare that could have derailed my build had I not pushed through with a little calm determination of my own. Hell, if it was easy everyone would have a show car. I just want to offer my encouragement, because it's obvious you deserve to finish this car.