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My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...


SSSEXXX

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Yeah, I got your pictures. Thinking I am going to stick with my current setup after talking to Baz and the team over at Datsport. I really enjoyed the build, or am enjoying the build, but was traveling for business, dating a new girl, and building a home.... so many things going on. Good news is that I have a new garage to turn in to a lovely little home/workshop for Project Miracle Whip.

 

Although, I must admit, I am considering taking the engine to a machine shop and having them finish assembly while I do suspension work. Going to get everything worked out with the suspension kit from Datsport and the coilovers. Waiting on Ground Control goodies and rear setup from Ermish. After I test fit everything, the baby girl is going to be off to paint. BMW Alpine White. I cannot wait to get this car on those Watanabes too!!!! Woooooooooht!!!!

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  • 1 month later...

So I clearly need to get to work. Moving has really screwed up my progress. I have a deal to propose. I need someone to come to the house with their own engine hoist. You pull the engine, transmission, and it is all yours. I also have the OEM radiator too. I'm looking to get some progress, clear some space, and help out a fellow 510 fan. Message me for more details.

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So I clearly need to get to work. Moving has really screwed up my progress. I have a deal to propose. I need someone to come to the house with their own engine hoist. You pull the engine, transmission, and it is all yours. I also have the OEM radiator too. I'm looking to get some progress, clear some space, and help out a fellow 510 fan. Message me for more details.

 

That is quite the deal. This wont last long.

 

Make sure they dont screw up your radiator support while taking it out. Some people do not have the attention to detail as some of us.

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I thought for sure someone would have jumped all over this already. Still up for grabs. I dropped my valve cover, GReddy oil pan, GReddy air intake, and spark plug cover off at the powder coaters today. Hoping to get it back so I can finish up (and start) final assembly on the engine. Then with the old one out, I can get the Datsport kit on the front end and mock up the engine bay for paint. How many holes really need to be filled in the engine bay?

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So, as punishment for being a lazy SOB, the Datsun gods have struck my cryo treated crank with rust... FML... So kids, I ask you, can I WD40 and rub this out or am I up a-hole creek without a paddle on my way back to the machine shop?

 

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Please note there is a bit on the journals...

 

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So anyone have some helpful hints??

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dont use wd40, get some pb blaster and a scotch brite pad. to get it off the journals use 000 steel wool. As long as it is surface rust on your journals you should be good to go. If it is pitted then you are in trouble and will need to be machined.

 

NEXT TIME !!!!

 

Store parts with a light coat of oil in a plastic bag.

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@dennis - did everything you said, but still felt uneasy about it. Headed to the machine shop tomorrow. Also taking the 280zx strut tubes. Never got around to that 4" grinder and I would prefer them to be done on a lathe if possible. OCD is a pain sometimes.

 

Got parts back from powder coating today. I know a lot of people may not agree with what I decided to do, but it is something I wanted to try. I spoke to GReddy before doing it and I should be fine. The only thing I didn't plan on was the powder guys coating the inside of the lower oil pan. Generally oil temps don't get hotter than 300 degrees at most and this is rated to 400, but does anyone have any thoughts on this being a problem??

 

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Dude, just make for certain there is no debris in any of the parts. Paint dust, clogs, etc. You do not want any debris what so ever floating around in your oil! Also make sure that valve cover is no t clogged any where. I dont think the s13 VC has any baffling ....

 

S13 does have baffling, well at least the black tops do.

 

LOL, your motor looks like a whore. I have OCD as well but you could have ground down the strut tubes, the coil overs sleeves will cover any slight imperfections in the tube from grinding. Mine took me hours to grind off so I could avoid a lot of grinding marks on the tubes. I started off with a dremel so I could be precise but that was like watching a leaky faucet drip all day.

 

WTF, those powder coaters are out of control. you are going to have a lot of finishing touches on those orifices. Clearance might be an issue with those injector recesses. Those injector pads might not fit, they are tight without any coating in the manifold.

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WTF, those powder coaters are out of control. you are going to have a lot of finishing touches on those orifices. Clearance might be an issue with those injector recesses. Those injector pads might not fit, they are tight without any coating in the manifold.

 

you have to tell any powdercoater to prep or to do the prep yourself.. when you give part and say coat it, they will do just that. I always have to tape all my stuff off and such they are a powdercoater not a mechanic they dont know whats what and what you want done.

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Couldn't take the stagnant build anymore and despite my better judgment sent her off to paint and body. Shaggy gave me a good recommendation and after a few consultations we decided on a plan of attack. All rust and bodywork will be done, a few modifications, the whole underside will get truck bed lining and I'll have a sexy BMW Alpine While body to work on!!! My wallet hurts, but Im super excited.

 

Icehouse, if you're out there buddy, I need to know how to modify the '68 wiper mounting location to work with the SR.

 

Also need to know what holes need to be closed up in the bay.

 

Saying goodbye to her gave me such anxiety!!!!

 

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Oh man, I wish you wouldnt have done that. I was hoping you were going to stick with the way I was doing things, get it all mocked up then work on the body. But hell, it is your car and my way is right for me. LOL. At least you are doing something.

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