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My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...


SSSEXXX

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Dennis to the rescue once again. I have a box of big brakes in my car that you wanted to see pictures of I recall. I'll have them to you soon. What is the word on your build? I see the engine is sitting in the bay and the valve cover is painted to match. Every time I look at your block I wish I would have used that color of engine enamel. Really makes it pop.

 

my build is slow as usual. I would have picked it up a notch but my wife has taken a lot of time off of work and my kids have been sick one after the other. Today was the first day nobody was home during the day in almost two weeks. So instead of working on the 510 I decided to play Arkham asylum.

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3 wire is Horn Relay, 6 wire is headlight relay (maybe it is 5 wire now...).

 

Consider the 90's style Nissan wiring relay boxes. They are reasonably universal, and have covers/lids that make them look complete and finished.

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Here is a couple of pics of one of them. They come in multiple sizes that hold 4, 5, or 6 relays. They also have an insert that holds three fuses.

And then a picture of the modern relay box i installed in my 620. Inside it is three fuses, high beam relay, low beam relay, and fuel pump relay. I have since added the horn relay into this box.

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Not a whole lot of news to report. Finally managed to have my machined hubs and Wilwood big brake kit picked up from Al over at Datsun Parts. It was really a great experience working with him and he provided a ton of help and was kind enough to take the time to listen to me real off question after question.

 

The kit looks fantastic and I couldn't have mentally pictured a better end result. Huge brakes, great stopping power, and sexy looks. Safety first and with a high HP engine on the horizon, I need to make sure the car can handle the speed. Soon I'll need to start researching a roll cage. I know I don't want a full scale track quality cage, but I'd definitely like something that will provide good added safety yet not take up the entire back seat. Purists can lament, but aesthetics and function are both important to me here.

 

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Yello620 - that setup looks great. I have a CAN/AM piece from Icehouse that I still need to figure out how to use and what exactly will need to be wired up separately, but this is a great idea. I like the homage to using Nissan parts whenever we can. Thank you for sharing the pics. I may message you some questions after I finish reading and researching the wiring. That cool?

 

Dennis - I know exactly where you are coming from man. So many things to do and sometimes that garage is just not where I'm going to wind up.

 

nclndym - thanks for the tip. I'm super nervous about jacking the car up on all fours. Wish me luck.

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Yello620 - that setup looks great. I have a CAN/AM piece from Icehouse that I still need to figure out how to use and what exactly will need to be wired up separately, but this is a great idea. I like the homage to using Nissan parts whenever we can. Thank you for sharing the pics. I may message you some questions after I finish reading and researching the wiring. That cool?

 

I skipped the CAN/AM box, and wired all the motor swap relays and fuses into another Nissan box like the one pictured.

 

Feel free to PM me with questions about them.

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I am skipping the CAN/AM box as well, but wiring is my thanggg!!!!! I am getting ready to do a new fuse box inside the car on the passenger firewall. I will be going all out on this, weatherproof bulkhead connectors, weather pack terminals, nylon loomed and shrinkwrapped. Everything is going to be removable in sections. I am also going with an RFID push button start so no keys and no worries about some junkie sticking a screw driver in the ignition and saying bye bye. Will also have GPS tracking a nicely hidden alarm and some other secret goodies.

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I am skipping the CAN/AM box as well, but wiring is my thanggg!!!!! I am getting ready to do a new fuse box inside the car on the passenger firewall. I will be going all out on this, weatherproof bulkhead connectors, weather pack terminals, nylon loomed and shrinkwrapped. Everything is going to be removable in sections. I am also going with an RFID push button start so no keys and no worries about some junkie sticking a screw driver in the ignition and saying bye bye. Will also have GPS tracking a nicely hidden alarm and some other secret goodies.

 

A lot of people are not fans of the CAN/AM box. Why is that? Wiring is as intimidating as all hell to me. Never done any of it and if it were to be on the one thing I would screw up the most, most likely the wiring kids. Then again I haven't even started to research any of it yet. Share the wealth of knowledge dennis!! Care to point me in the right direction for some basics that I'll be needing that you might be able to think of off the top of your head?

 

Plans so far are trunk mounted battery and box, move all the fuses and and boxes in to the cabin and tuck all wiring possible. Not sure how to do any of it at the moment. Also want a push button start too. I have the '68 steering column so I plan on finding a way to have a completely stealth installation and hiding the ignition all together since my 1968 Canadian dash or 1969 USDM dash was built for a steering column ignition location.

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A lot of people are not fans of the CAN/AM box. Why is that? Wiring is as intimidating as all hell to me. Never done any of it and if it were to be on the one thing I would screw up the most, most likely the wiring kids. Then again I haven't even started to research any of it yet. Share the wealth of knowledge dennis!! Care to point me in the right direction for some basics that I'll be needing that you might be able to think of off the top of your head?

 

Plans so far are trunk mounted battery and box, move all the fuses and and boxes in to the cabin and tuck all wiring possible. Not sure how to do any of it at the moment. Also want a push button start too. I have the '68 steering column so I plan on finding a way to have a completely stealth installation and hiding the ignition all together since my 1968 Canadian dash or 1969 USDM dash was built for a steering column ignition location.

 

I am a fan of the CAN/AM box, it is just not for me since I know wiring very well. The CAN/AM box is great for people who are electrically challenged.

 

Wiring is simple, once you figure out how a 12VDC system works it will come easy for you.

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CAN/AM is fine... But I am a DIY guy, and I like to save money where I can and I know I can wire in a motor cheaper. Also I think it would be a lot better looking if there was some type of lid for the enclosure.

 

To me it is either spend $150 on a box, or spend a bit less and really understand your wiring harness. I want to understand why something might fail. Also I start memorizing colors of the wires. There are a number of wires in the stock harness that I have memorized the color of...

 

CAN/AM works, seems like it may be just about perfect for you.

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CAN/AM is fine... But I am a DIY guy, and I like to save money where I can and I know I can wire in a motor cheaper. Also I think it would be a lot better looking if there was some type of lid for the enclosure.

 

To me it is either spend $150 on a box, or spend a bit less and really understand your wiring harness. I want to understand why something might fail. Also I start memorizing colors of the wires. There are a number of wires in the stock harness that I have memorized the color of...

 

CAN/AM works, seems like it may be just about perfect for you.

 

Ha! I am never one to step away from a challenge. I think I am going to do my research and maybe, just maybe I'll see if I can memorize some colors too. The idea was to learn as much as possible on this project. That means doing things the hard way, even when there is an easier way, if it means it will be a better end result.

 

One day when I grow up I can say that I am a DIYer too. Until then, admittedly I am a DIY in training.

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So, didn't have a whole lot of time this weekend to play with the miracle whip so I decided to tackle a small looming project that I had been avoiding. While i am waiting for my engine hoist from harbor freight I decided that I need to continue to work or risk being my lazy self and neglecting my baby. I still need to buy coilovers and struts, but my 280zx strut assemblies needed to be prepped. Here is how we started...

 

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One more view just because I can...

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So after scratching my head and doing my best monkey impression I decided that the best plan of attack would be to dremel off the hats as close to the tube as I could and then figure out a way to smooth it all down. Only problem, there wasn't exactly a nice, pretty grove to follow. What is a rookie to do???

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I'll tell you what he does. He gets his arse to work. Grind, grind, grind baby... and then the hat is off....

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Then I got slightly side tracked.... Can all of that ugly stuff be polished off?????

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Survey says..... yes zir!!!!! Wasn't going for the full clean, just wanted to know what was in store for me...

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Back on the grind.....

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So now ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls.... we have a close up of the hats off freshness... Does anyone have any creative and brilliant suggestions as to how I can grind these bad boys down nice and smooth before I take them in for a nice powder coat???? Do I just get a dremel grinding tool, or six because the things last as long as a high school senior, and just grind, grind, grind?????

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I wasn't planning on shortening the tubes and going with the famed mr2 inserts unless anyone has a compelling arguement for it. The sr20det oil pan sit pretty low as it is, so I doubt I can get much lower than this setup would already allow.... opinions are always loved and appreciated....

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Dude, buy yourself a 4" grinder and go to town on those, a dremel is going to take you forever. If you are wanting it to be ultra smooth then take them to a machine shop and have them put it on a lathe and take them off.

 

The grinding marks that you will get will be covered by your coilover sleeves anyways. The tubes are really thick so you wont have to worry about grinding some of the tubes and not the perch. Just dont go crazy.

 

You are on the right track though. Oh, and 280ZX shocks are getting more expensive so pick them up as quickly as possible. The Tokico Illuminas should provide you with the performance you are looking for. These guys have the lowest prices that I have found http://lightningmoto...om/i-56426.aspx .

 

What coilovers are you going with? I love the T3 with coilovers with the camber plates. A good spring rate is 200 - 225# I picked up a bunch of springs 200, 225, and 250#, I figured i would be happy with one of them. Right now I have 225's but havent driven them much when I had my l16 in it.

 

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Make sure you buy yourself a good face shield, grinding will throw a bunch of high speed metal up all over the place. I run a Uvex Bionic http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B001VY3ACE

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Dennis!!! Now suspension is one of the few topics that I feel like I have done enough research to speak on. So many times you and I chat man, I have to go back and do so much research, but this time I came prepared for you sir. Although, I do have to admit, it was in your thread where I stole most of my research from :)

 

Definitely going t3 camber and coilovers, rcas, those exact tokicos (Nice find on the price btw), and was planning on 8" 200lb 2.5" springs all the way around although I am on the fence about buying the 225lb ones just like you did. Also going to get new wheel bearings while it is all apart.

 

I was thinking about a face shield last night. Had on my safety glasses, and a breathing mask and still got metal pieces everywhere. Then I started tripping out on what could happen if something flew free and popped me on the side of this ugly mug. I'm not saying I'm pretty, but I don't think I can pull off the Tony Montana scarface look. Absolutely going to pick one of those bad boys up, so thank you for the direction.

 

You really think a 4" grinder is worth the investment? If I am going to get some use out of it, I would prefer to do the work myself, but if not I have no problem heading over to the machine shop and having these sandblasted and cleaned while they are there.

 

You have that engine wired up yet sir???

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Dennis!!! Now suspension is one of the few topics that I feel like I have done enough research to speak on. So many times you and I chat man, I have to go back and do so much research, but this time I came prepared for you sir. Although, I do have to admit, it was in your thread where I stole most of my research from :)

 

Definitely going t3 camber and coilovers, rcas, those exact tokicos (Nice find on the price btw), and was planning on 8" 200lb 2.5" springs all the way around although I am on the fence about buying the 225lb ones just like you did. Also going to get new wheel bearings while it is all apart.

 

I was thinking about a face shield last night. Had on my safety glasses, and a breathing mask and still got metal pieces everywhere. Then I started tripping out on what could happen if something flew free and popped me on the side of this ugly mug. I'm not saying I'm pretty, but I don't think I can pull off the Tony Montana scarface look. Absolutely going to pick one of those bad boys up, so thank you for the direction.

 

You really think a 4" grinder is worth the investment? If I am going to get some use out of it, I would prefer to do the work myself, but if not I have no problem heading over to the machine shop and having these sandblasted and cleaned while they are there.

 

You have that engine wired up yet sir???

 

the grinder is the ticket. You can buy a harbor freight one if you feel like you are not going to use it much. I have a harbor freight one and a makita. I use the harbor freight for grinding and the makita has a cutoff wheel on it.

 

As far as my 510 is concerned I havent done a thing to it. I am going to put it up on jack stands tomorrow and then mount my radiator next week. Then I am going to mock up some radiator hoses with my wrapping paper tubes and go on the hunt for some hoses. Once that is done I have to do the intercooler measurements and figure out which one I want to run. In two weeks I am going to figure out my mounting on my new fuse block , I am going to do something kind of trick. Then I will mount the ecu and start the wiring. Oh and I keep forgetting to send out my tank to luke (jesusno2) so I need to do that as well. My goal is for this summer, but its not like I am going to be rushing to do a lot. I want this project to last me a long time, but I do need some satisfaction of getting it on the road.

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dennis - " I want this project to last me a long time, but I do need some satisfaction of getting it on the road." Amen to that one my friend. I go through waves of productivity. But much like you the juxtaposition of getting work done right and having some interim satisfaction kills me sometimes.

 

DISLEXICDIME - I am not looking to go too low. I want the car to perform well, obviously, and aesthetically I don't want any fender gap. If the car sits on top of the rubber with little tuck I'd be a happy camper. I am going to drive her for years to come, so I can always tweak the suspension. I figure if I want it lower, I always have th option of buying new struts and cutting the tubes down for the mr2 inserts later.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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I need an update too! Trust me man, it has been aggrivating. I have been traveling a lot for work, trying to arrange a move, and have had some packages lost in the mail. After literally months of waiting, things are starting to come back together. Sad to report, but I won't be able to do much work between now and April. I am heading to Miami next week and then off to France. So, just to keep you interested I decided I would share what showed up at my door just yesterday afternoon. Literally 5 months after I won an eBay auction sea mail from the Australian Post finally brought me my Datsport kit...

 

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I was damn near foaming at the mouth to open the packages up and get a little sample of what I was working with....

 

I laid it all out and obviously I won't need the other front sump sway bar I picked up from Mario over at TSR...

 

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I can't tell you how helpful the team over at Datsport has been with answering questions and giving me details on how to use this kit with my 280zx struts and Wilwood BBK kit. I was so nervous after reading so many mixed reports on the forum, but I have got a pretty good feeling that I can make it work.

 

Hope to have a couple more updates before I leave for Miami. Long live Project Miracle Whip!!!!

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