izzo Posted June 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 I told her she might be able to graduate into driving the five ten some day. She lolled and said nah. Wants to drive the b. 2 Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I told her she might be able to graduate into driving the five ten some day. She lolled and said nah. Wants to drive the b. Not if you sell the 510 to me :P 1 Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 ^^ hahaha She drove the be, better than expected. Very pleased... Only killed it a few times. Hell I've been driving stick for 15 years and still kill the shit. Little more practice, then on some hills, good to go. Got her a set of keys.... I drove the b today, fuck I miss that car :lol: Steerings super tight, shit hauls ass.. That b has some good memories, and is super fun to drive. Need to drive it more often. Just driving it for a few hours today is making me want to off the 510 for some more A series rides! 1 Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Im so proud ... now s.l.a.m. I that shit. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 New fuse box on the way Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 hot adjusted the valves... Two were too tight on the intake, rest were fine. This car is getting the best of me... Oil pan gasket leak is making me irate. Can't get the carb tuned right, hopefully when the new one gets here it'll be better. The oil pan leak (meaning i have to pull the motor to fix it), add the no bright light issue, and the thing refusing to tune right is about to push me far enough to just sell it and get something else I don't need to dick around with so much. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 If you didnt live so far away... Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 If you didnt live so far away... lol I am totally willing to take a day and come that way. Probably be two weeks before I can though. Beyond frustrated with this thing. Getting a little blue smoke out the tail pipe too. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Trade the truck for the goon :P Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 hahaha. Well, the smoke really isnt that bad.. Just under high revs.. It's getting a new weber in a day or two. Grant GT steering wheel will be installed this week... The car really isn't to bad, just irritated with constantly working on it... Got the steering box tightened up, much better now. Just picked up an Autometer tachometer, so that will be going in soon too. installing my autometer voltmeter here soon too. Got the E-brake working. Got all new wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, springs etc... So I guess, really I don't have shit to bitch about :lol: It smokes a little, and the brights don't work... Not the end of the world... I'll try and track down the headlight issue, Jacob told me how to test the brights. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 It always takes a few months to iron the bugs out of a new dime. Don't give up! 2 Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Thanks Hobbes! Decided to fill it up, and hit the road last night Then on the way home I hit a bump in the road and lost my running lights. Fuse blew out.. Swapped in a new fuse, three seconds later it popped... Did this four times, something got knocked loose. Time to tear shit apart and start tracing. I do believe it will be an issue on the driver front side of the car. I noticed that the running light on the fender isn't working now, it was before the trip (i seent it working) now its not. Hoping its a small simple issue. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Alright.... So tonight I am going to try and find the running light issue. Hopefully a quick easy fix. Other than that... I need to pull the engine and fix the pan gasket so it stops leaking. But trying to decide if its even worth it. The motor smokes a little revved out... And there are oil drops on my hatch... Getting feedback from other people and members, it seems as if the rings didn't seat. So left with a decision and not sure which route to take... Pull the motor, fix the gasket, install the motor, run the piss out of it... OR... Add a little oil till I can find a cheap good running L series and just drop that in. Do a motor swap one more time instead of twice. What would you guys do? Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 I'd replace it with a cheapy if I live out in datsun heaven like most of you guys. Then just rebuild it over time so you have a spare or a engine ready for your next next project :P Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 It was rebuilt :rofl: Idk what went wrong. I don't have the funds to drop into rebuilding a motor. So, its either run the piss out of it or find another. Runs ok but uses oil, and splatters oil on my tail gate... Hell L16's were given away for free at one time. I sold one for 20 bucks a few months ago. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Wow, and I was qouted $500 for a Z22 short block :P How many miles have you put on the engine since the rebuild? Also, which rings did you use? A few months back the local shop rebuilt my buddies 427 but they used chrome rings. Something went wrong with the bore or hone and the rings just wouldn't seal. He used a re-ring kit with cast iron and everything seems fine now. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Dude..... The rings are good, I drove that motor for 12k without having a "smoking" issue... Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 I have an oil pan gasket and valve seals u can have man, whip that bitch out and see what happens. It will cost you nothing but time Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Dude..... The rings are good, I drove that motor for 12k without having a "smoking" issue... I have an oil pan gasket and valve seals u can have man, whip that bitch out and see what happens. It will cost you nothing but time I didn't think you did (otherwise you would have took it out and fixed it :lol: ). That's what's stumping me. It was a full rebuild, too. I thought possibly a carb issue, since I can't get the carb tuned right (running rich, or so I thought. It's the oil burning I smell when I drive). But its blue smoke meaning oil, and then the oil drops on the hatch. I thought rings, because its smoking under acell, not when I'm letting off the gas and compression braking. (rings acell, decell is valve stem seals, or so I thought that's normally how it goes... Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'll swap a head out in no time). sending you a pm adam Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 In my experience, Stem seals are when its cold, and at acceleration. Rings would be 100% of the time. When the L18 I got from you started blowing smoke, it was noticeable in the mirror, and very bad. No matter what I did. I had to accelerate slower than a HyperMiler in a Prius to avoid massive smoke. Though it was fun watching the car behind you change lanes... Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 I'd like to rig up a "Seafoam Injection" system for such an purpose :devil: ... er, I mean for cleaning out my combustion chambers. 1 Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hahaha. Well. It may or may not do it when its cold, I never noticed it. It was fully warmed up when this is taking place, again.. just haven't noticed cold. It could be doing it at idle, just not that noticeable. when its warmed up I can smell it while driving, also when I stop and get out. Found my running light issue. I knew it had to be a wire touching metal from what had happened. Was just a matter of finding it. First I looked at the driver fender light as it wasn't working anymore. Well it was working now.. I noticed the passenger turn signal running light was slightly dimmer than the other, I tapped the housing and the fuse exploded. moved the battery over, started looking at wires near metal and found the factory running light wiring was missing its protection. the overflow bottle was sitting on top of it, when I hit the bump it smashed the wire end into the horn. New tape, good to go. running lights work. ^^^^ Here you can see where my finger is pointed, there is no corrosion. Its nice fresh brass where it was getting smashed into the horn. Now for my bright issue. IDK wtf is going on with the headlights... I turned on my dims. The driver side was dimmer than passenger. Both high beams lights were just barely glowing... Anyone know why that happens? I don't and would like to know. Also, I removed the driver low beam headlight connector, cleaned the contacts, put it back on and it was still dim. When I removed the driver high beam connector, the low beam dimmed down a lot. It dimmed down a lot also when I removed the passenger side low beam connector. IDK why... This is all some how related... Is it a bad ground? Anyone have this happen before and figure out what the cause is? I am not good with wiring, at all. Anyways.. I wiggled some stuff and noticed the high beam super dimness went away. Hit my high beam switch and they popped back on. Also, the driver side low beam is super bright like it should be.. I vaguely remember someone saying that people think when the driver side low beam is dim, its because of something on the driver side, when in fact its something to do with the passenger side... Maybe the connection on the passenger low beam was bad? I think the last thing I did before it worked well was remove the connector and pop it back on once more... Now.. If someone can help me pinpoint what the issue is with the headlights, that will be the last issue I have with the car at this time besides the motor. 2 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Carlos(dat510) was having a similar issue awhile back. Maybe it was the relay... Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 Waiting on my new to me 510 fuse box to show up before I install the tach, and voltmeter. Am planning on using the AC wire as a switchable power source for the fuse box below. This is just in case the wires ever come lose, or touch the metal.. It will I'm hoping will prevent the AC fuse from blowing, and I can tell which system it was. (might have to run a 40 amp fuse instead of a stock 20 so that way it works as i'm hoping) The tach and volt meter don't require much power. even if the tach and other stuff pull a little power from the volt meter (never has before). I will still have an indication if the alternator goes dead. I plan on just running the Tach, voltmeter, toggle switch to the PIAA lights (running actual power off a relay for the piaa lights.), and then the stereo. The voltmeter.. I was able to break the driver side vent. just the tri out, leaving the round innards. The voltmeter slides in and is snug. and I can point it around like the vent :lol: (idc about breaking the vents, they are cheap and easily replaceable.) The tachometer.... Idk what to do about that one yet. i was thinking about mounting it to the pillar, but not sure if I want to drill holes in it. The angle I would have to mount it in, would cut it close to the window gasket. I don't feel comfy doing that. It can wait till another date. the one I have is to big for stuffing it where the stock one went. I'm not deleting the dummy lights in order to fit it in. Quote Link to comment
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