going to look at an SD22 motor + tranny

[Master-O-Turbonics]

As the title states, I'm going to go look at an SD22 with trans tonight that is just a couple miles from me and cheapppp.

What should I look for? Any tips?

 

** EDIT**

video:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDB_dAxY7Nc

 

[RadioRedline]

Make Sure its Diesel :lol:

 

Radio

[wayno]

What are you going to use it for? Is it a truck or just an engine and tranny? You want the engine controller and glow plug timer, actually you want the diesel wiring harness complete with the engine. Let us know what happens. wayno

[Spades]

ugh...mechanical diesels. that thing will be underpowered, a nightmare to find parts for, average economy, and a giant thorn in your side...be forewarned.

 

We have a customer with one...that thing has been a nightmare, and it was in a well maintained 100k mile pickup that looked like new.

 

I have the same opinion on the SD22 as I do on the older ford ranger diesels...decent mileage, but underpowered and obsolete from the day it left the production line.

[thisismatt]

Look for something else to do :lol:

[Spades]

Look for something else to do :lol:

 

+1 :D

[wayno]

I have owned a lot of SD series diesels, I have two now, I have a rebuilt SD22 engine waiting to be put in my truck, I had no problem finding parts for the engine. Sure, they are a bit on the under powered side, but when was the last time you had 350,000 miles on an engine that got 25 mpg in the city no matter what, got 35+ mpg on the hiway, and got 22 mpg on the hiway towing another 720 diesel truck behind it. These engines usually out last the trucks they are in. If you want to get somewhere fast(70 mph is about max), this is not the engine for you. These little diesel trucks are not for everyone, but there is something to be said about no plugs, points, rotors caps or wires, change the oil and filters every once in a while, and your good to go.

[Spades]

I have owned a lot of SD series diesels, I have two now, I have a rebuilt SD22 engine waiting to be put in my truck, I had no problem finding parts for the engine. Sure, they are a bit on the under powered side, but when was the last time you had 350,000 miles on an engine that got 25 mpg in the city no matter what, got 35+ mpg on the hiway, and got 22 mpg on the hiway towing another 720 diesel truck behind it. These engines usually out last the trucks they are in. If you want to get somewhere fast(70 mph is about max), this is not the engine for you. These little diesel trucks are not for everyone, but there is something to be said about no plugs, points, rotors caps or wires, change the oil and filters every once in a while, and your good to go.

 

 

Meh, it isn't for everyone...I have never seen the SD22 go 350k miles. What I have seen is they get decent mileage, the mechanical injectors will allow for a biodiesel mixture if running a high grade and changing filters often, and that they are a diesel motor.

 

Having said that, they are underpowered, use finicky mechanical injection, are a PITA to work on, and finding new parts was not as easy as your experience has been. Personally, I will take an electronic ignition gasoline motor, a Cummins, 7.3l Powerchoke, or a Cat diesel over a SD22(or most other early Japanese diesels) any day of the week. I would probably put a 1.9l TDI in a small RWD or 4WD truck than a SD22...

 

But again, I am biased.

[Master-O-Turbonics]

Probably not going into a car, but to be a 10kW generator/ PTO drive for sub-automobile duties. If it gets running easily, then I may swap it into the 210.

 

Spades, did you just put 7.3L ford Turbo Diesel in comparison with a Datsun 2.2L non turbo diesel 4 banger? LOL I know they have like 55hp, which is more than it will ever need for what I am doing. Was gonna use my A series motor for this project but diesel will work so much better for a generator. LOW end torque> A series motor...

 

Wayno, diesel motors are so rare here in the southeast, and for the price I could not beat it. I may need a few small bits but it looks 95% complete.

 

Its an SD22 with a 5 speed on a front frame clip from I guess a 720 pickup. Everything was cut off of the clip to just make it an engine stand. Has I guess the fuel filter and a radiator/mount all on the clip. Would need a battery and fuel can to run.... any diagrams about the wiring/ soft fuel lines?

 

I know this beast of a setup is 3x as clean as the LD28 I stripped down!

[HRH]

Remember "rare" is just a synonym for "hard to get parts!" :D While I like the SD22 idea, (I talked with Wayno quite a bit at Canby about it) I'd say getting a 95% complete diesel is not the best idea unless you've had lots of diesel experience. A gas L series can be built by 20 drunk retards in a day and will run (:D) A diesel without some basic things is a big paperweight. Not saying it can't be done, but it's definitely going to be more work. And parts aren't as easy as L series to find. Especially stateside. I'd say Canada has more diesel availability as they were more accepted in Canada.

 

I looked up some SD22 diesel parts at NAPA a while back and there's not a whole lot I could get.

[wayno]

I one thing I don't know is how the vacuum throddle will work for a steady rpm application, I have thought about using this engine to run a pressure washing pump, but have not got discouraged enough with the engines I am running to figure it out yet. They make an injection pump for this application, and around here they come up on craigslist, vacuum, water, and marine app. engines with a metered type injection pump, VE type instead of inline. I suspect you will be able to use it for what your wanting to do, sometimes ebay has a injection pump up for your application, I found one for $120. plus shipping new. It isn't that hard to start these engines on the floor of your garage, first thing that needs to be done is to remove the engine controller arm/shaft from the inj. pump itself, when the engine is off, fuel will not move threw the system no matter how hard or long you pump the primer pump. Put a hose from the lift pump fitting(connected to the primer pump) to a can of diesel, put the return line hose from the fuel filter into the same can, prime the system till fuel is being pumped back into the can of diesel. Run a fairly big wire from the rear glow plug(all the glow plugs should have a shared wire) to a place near the starter, run one cable from the starter to the positive side of the battery, run the negitive to the block, it is best to have a remote starter switch also from the starter coil to the positve side batt. Now warm up the glow plugs for about a minute by touching the big wire from the rear glow plug to the positive side of the battery, there will be a spark when it touches the post, after a minute remove the wire warming the glow plugs and hit the starter while turning the ijection pump control shaft clockwise as far as it will turn when facing the pass. side of the engine, this is the start position, when it starts just let the shaft go, it will return to the run position by itself, now if all the vacuum hoses are connected like they are supposed to be, you will be able to control the engine rpm by the carb looking thing on top of the intake manifold. To shut the engine off you must turn the injection pump control shaft counter clockwise as far as it will turn till the engine stops running. A good backup would be to have a flat piece of plywood(or something flat) that you can cut the air off by placing it over the intake in case you have a problem getting it to shut down. I started a SD25 engine that had been sitting in the mud on the side of some guys house for years, it started the second time I hit the starter. Of course the engine needs oil, ect. in it before you atempt to start it. I hope this post helps you, if you need any help just ask or PM me. Whew, what a long freaking post. :lol: :lol:

[wayno]

Remember "rare" is just a synonym for "hard to get parts!" :D While I like the SD22 idea, (I talked with Wayno quite a bit at Canby about it) I'd say getting a 95% complete diesel is not the best idea unless you've had lots of diesel experience. A gas L series can be built by 20 drunk retards in a day and will run (:D) A diesel without some basic things is a big paperweight. Not saying it can't be done, but it's definitely going to be more work. And parts aren't as easy as L series to find. Especially stateside. I'd say Canada has more diesel availability as they were more accepted in Canada.

 

I looked up some SD22 diesel parts at NAPA a while back and there's not a whole lot I could get.

 

 

I bought my complete rebuild kit for a SD22 on ebay for under $500.00, it had everything, lately I see they are selling the oil pump separately now, but it's on ebay also. The kit had a complete gasket set with it also. I take my injectors to a diesel truck injection service shop locally(diesel injection services), and I can get my banjo fittings there also, as well as the glow plugs. I will say this though, there are a lot more 720 diesel trucks being sold around the washington and oregon area, than there are back east, I have parted out several, then one day I decided I had enough parts, have not brought one home since. :lol:

[Master-O-Turbonics]

I one thing I don't know is how the vacuum throddle will work for a steady rpm application, I have thought about using this engine to run a pressure washing pump, but have not got discouraged enough with the engines I am running to figure it out yet. They make an injection pump for this application, and around here they come up on craigslist, vacuum, water, and marine app. engines with a metered type injection pump, VE type instead of inline. I suspect you will be able to use it for what your wanting to do, sometimes ebay has a injection pump up for your application, I found one for $120. plus shipping new. It isn't that hard to start these engines on the floor of your garage, first thing that needs to be done is to remove the engine controller arm/shaft from the inj. pump itself, when the engine is off, fuel will not move threw the system no matter how hard or long you pump the primer pump. Put a hose from the lift pump fitting(connected to the primer pump) to a can of diesel, put the return line hose from the fuel filter into the same can, prime the system till fuel is being pumped back into the can of diesel. Run a fairly big wire from the rear glow plug(all the glow plugs should have a shared wire) to a place near the starter, run one cable from the starter to the positive side of the battery, run the negitive to the block, it is best to have a remote starter switch also from the starter coil to the positve side batt. Now warm up the glow plugs for about a minute by touching the big wire from the rear glow plug to the positive side of the battery, there will be a spark when it touches the post, after a minute remove the wire warming the glow plugs and hit the starter while turning the ijection pump control shaft clockwise as far as it will turn when facing the pass. side of the engine, this is the start position, when it starts just let the shaft go, it will return to the run position by itself, now if all the vacuum hoses are connected like they are supposed to be, you will be able to control the engine rpm by the carb looking thing on top of the intake manifold. To shut the engine off you must turn the injection pump control shaft counter clockwise as far as it will turn till the engine stops running. A good backup would be to have a flat piece of plywood(or something flat) that you can cut the air off by placing it over the intake in case you have a problem getting it to shut down. I started a SD25 engine that had been sitting in the mud on the side of some guys house for years, it started the second time I hit the starter. Of course the engine needs oil, ect. in it before you atempt to start it. I hope this post helps you, if you need any help just ask or PM me. Whew, what a long freaking post. :lol: :lol:

 

Thanks for the information Wayno! I'll probably be PM'ing you soon.

What is the device at the lower right side of the motor toward the front? Is that the engine controller with like a 5 wire plug?

I bought the motor already and am going to pick it up here in a few minutes... if I can't get it running, I'll part it out like I did the LD28 I had come across a while ago (that was a surprise goldmine, EVERYTHING but the pistons/rods sold.)

[wayno]

Yes, it is an engine controller, and you need the black box to use it, actually youn need the wiring harness to use it. To start it you will need to disconnect the engine controller from the injection pump as I discribed in the earlier post. The SD22 engine is not like the LD28, the parts are not as interchangable on the SD22 engines. It is what it is. wayno

[Spades]

Probably not going into a car, but to be a 10kW generator/ PTO drive for sub-automobile duties. If it gets running easily, then I may swap it into the 210.

 

Spades, did you just put 7.3L ford Turbo Diesel in comparison with a Datsun 2.2L non turbo diesel 4 banger? LOL I know they have like 55hp, which is more than it will ever need for what I am doing. Was gonna use my A series motor for this project but diesel will work so much better for a generator. LOW end torque> A series motor...

 

Wayno, diesel motors are so rare here in the southeast, and for the price I could not beat it. I may need a few small bits but it looks 95% complete.

 

Its an SD22 with a 5 speed on a front frame clip from I guess a 720 pickup. Everything was cut off of the clip to just make it an engine stand. Has I guess the fuel filter and a radiator/mount all on the clip. Would need a battery and fuel can to run.... any diagrams about the wiring/ soft fuel lines?

 

I know this beast of a setup is 3x as clean as the LD28 I stripped down!

 

Well, I will agree with you on one thing, until it breaks, it will be a cheap setup, and will have plenty of torque...fuel flexibility of old mechanical injection found in early japanese diesels and tractor diesels is also a plus for generators.

 

I will say though, yes, for an automotive application, I prefer most other diesels to SD22's and other 80's Japanese diesel engines. Look, there are reasons they are rare...and while I am not going to compare a 4 banger to a powerchoke or other 6+ cylinder diesel with electronic injection, I will say they are much better to work on and it is a plus that they are not similar in any way other than they are "both diesel engines".

 

Putting a SD22 behind a generator sounds like a great idea to me, and hard to find parts and PITA to work on in an engine bay and finicky injection are no longer major issues.

 

SD22 for project = fun

 

SD22 for daily driver = bad times (in my personal experience)

[Master-O-Turbonics]

Yes, it is an engine controller, and you need the black box to use it, actually youn need the wiring harness to use it. To start it you will need to disconnect the engine controller from the injection pump as I discribed in the earlier post. The SD22 engine is not like the LD28, the parts are not as interchangable on the SD22 engines. It is what it is. wayno

 

 

The engine controller was already disconnected and setup to run just like you described. primed the pump and it fired up with a small shot of brake parts cleaner. Runs just fine!

It needs new radiator hoses (the short ones on the side of the block)cause after 20 minutes of running it sprung a minor leak. Engine runs perfect!

Still trying to decide wether to put it in the 210 or build my Generator off of it.. I guess we will see as time comes...

[Z chopper]

there are 4 sd22 engines complete and atleast 2 are running that I can get for $100 each and that includes the transmissions, I am tempted to get one and see if I can turbo it.

[Master-O-Turbonics]

Please pardon Android 1.6 low quality.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDB_dAxY7Nc

Open header too.

[Master-O-Turbonics]

there are 4 sd22 engines complete and atleast 2 are running that I can get for $100 each and that includes the transmissions, I am tempted to get one and see if I can turbo it.

 

Get me an engine bay wiring harness and the black box that "Wayno" mentioned, please. :-D

[Wide14u]

it did sound pretty good

[wayno]

I guess it does run, you only need the DPC module if you want to turn it off with a key, you need more than the engine bay harness, you need a complete diesel harness, or you might contact calhoon520, he made a engine control harness from scratch, but you still need the DPC module and the glow plug timer with there wiring plugs. If you were to use it as a generater engine you could rig up a lever that has the 3 positions, start, run, and off, and another lever for the throddle, and a button for the glow plug warmer, you will also need some kind of tach. I wouldn't use starting fluid or the like to start the engine a lot, it is bad for the engine.

[Master-O-Turbonics]

I guess it does run, you only need the DPC module if you want to turn it off with a key, you need more than the engine bay harness, you need a complete diesel harness, or you might contact calhoon520, he made a engine control harness from scratch, but you still need the DPC module and the glow plug timer with there wiring plugs. If you were to use it as a generater engine you could rig up a lever that has the 3 positions, start, run, and off, and another lever for the throddle, and a button for the glow plug warmer, you will also need some kind of tach. I wouldn't use starting fluid or the like to start the engine a lot, it is bad for the engine.

 

I think for the generator it will be easy to set up(probably just going to do that). Just a few levers. I have all the gauges that I would need for it. Also picked up some jerry cans from the local surplus shop to use as the fuel tank(s).

We just used starting fluid for the initial startup, After that it fired right up with no juice several times till the water line sprung a leak.

[wayno]

there are 4 sd22 engines complete and atleast 2 are running that I can get for $100 each and that includes the transmissions, I am tempted to get one and see if I can turbo it.

 

 

It is not easy to turbocharge these engines, most guys that try fail, the problem is how the throddle is controlled, by vacuum, and the turbo screws up the vacuum. Most end up having the injection pump permanatly floored, which it blows a cloud of black smoke all the time, or stuck in idle mode, no power, but goes threw DEQ with almost no emissions. The inline pump just isn't set up for turbos in the USA, austrailia has these engines also, but some of them have VE type injection pumps, they are easy to turbocharge.

[Z chopper]

Get me an engine bay wiring harness and the black box that "Wayno" mentioned, please. :-D

 

 

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[datzenmike]

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