gumbyz13 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Howdy all, Trying to get things together for my SR swap - Picked up an extra crossmember and now in prep to cut and flip the center section. Searched around a bit but haven't been able too find to much on the process. Looks pretty straight forward from what I have seen... Attached are pictures of the jig I just finished. Just looking for some input on anything I might be missing before I cut this thing up...? Any thoughts??? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Why not just flip the crossmember 180 degrees and bolt it back in? Quote Link to comment
Sinnful Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Why not just flip the crossmember 180 degrees and bolt it back in? please do not do this, I just pulled one out of a dime that the PO did this. not good they drilled the taper holes out and slotted the mounting holes and had to notch the sides for the LAC's. just not a good way to go. I replaced it with a custom crossmember that I make. this one is a 68/69 one . Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 My jig looks like this. Just lock it down . Cut it out strait. Clean up and the taper the edges. Weld it back together. Cut off the extra lip where the sway bar used to go. Paint it And you're ready to rock. (Definitely do not just flip the crossmember 180 degrees and bolt it back in, lol, very bad.) Quote Link to comment
AtomChurch Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 You can flip the crossmember 180 degrees if you flip the LCA mounting holes. they need to be flipped so that you retain the full strength. You do not want to drill out the holes larger. I flip the LCA pins by hole-saw cutting them out and using a jig reverse them and replace them. There is a inner support structure to the crossmember that you cannot reweld from the outside when you cut and just flip the center section. Some say it doesn't matter, however I thought I would error on the safe side. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 . I'm running a brake line through my flipped crossmember ...... .. bad idea???? .......... :lol: Quote Link to comment
AtomChurch Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 . I'm running a brake line through my flipped crossmember ...... .. bad idea???? .......... :lol: Nope! I run all my wiring through it! I even stuffed my washer bottle in there. :ninja: Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Ive flipped a few 510 crossmembers & if i can stress one thing it's this. Mark your vertical cut lines perfectly straight & cut them straight. If you do it makes it easier to weld back together with no gaps. I also go 1 step further & cap the ends for more strength & a cleaner look. My "jig" is about as Ratsun as it gets but it works ;) Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 You can flip the crossmember 180 degrees if you flip the LCA mounting holes. they need to be flipped so that you retain the full strength. You do not want to drill out the holes larger. I flip the LCA pins by hole-saw cutting them out and using a jig reverse them and replace them. There is a inner support structure to the crossmember that you cannot reweld from the outside when you cut and just flip the center section. Some say it doesn't matter, however I thought I would error on the safe side. You're right, I do like the hole saw technique also, you just have to make sure they line back up perfect again. Like you said, a jig is a must. Nice job. Quote Link to comment
gumbyz13 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Very nice work and thanks for the input guys. A talked to a few guys that just turned it around and cut out the LCA mounts...Removing the center section just seemed like it left a lot less room for error, at least for what I have to work with. That jig locks it down solid, you can't see it in the pictures but there are also nuts on the back side of the jig that lock it forward against tabs welded to the plate as well. I like that top mount idea as well and was thinking of adding a top brace. Don't think there will be much (if any) heat shrinkage/movement when I pull it off the jig to weld up the bottom. What did you all use to make the cuts - I don't have access to a band saw so might have to go with a cut off wheel and a slow hand... Should be able to cut it up and weld this weekend. Will let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Mine is a combination of sawsall / air saw / cutoff wheel, just to make sure it's very strait and square. Final clean up with a roloc. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I used a grinder w/ a 4 inch cutoff wheel. Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 reading this thread has me wondering what what done to the 69. its rotated 180 but I dont know if anything else was done. I hope the PO didn't eff some stuff up. Quote Link to comment
gumbyz13 Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Finished it up this weekend. Didn't come out too bad... Ended up capping the ends as well, thanks for all the input. Quote Link to comment
mozhated Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 :blink:...curious...?whats a "jigs" purpose? i dont understand..............anybody? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 :blink:...curious...?whats a "jigs" purpose? i dont understand..............anybody? To keep everything (lower control arm bolt holes, crossmember mounting holes, engine mount platforms) aligned when removing and rotating the center section. Quote Link to comment
mozhated Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 To keep everything (lower control arm bolt holes, crossmember mounting holes, engine mount platforms) aligned when removing and rotating the center section. ahhhhhh I see...guess ill be bringing my crossmember to someone else. Welding is one thing I do not mess with, especially something that will be holding the heart of the car. Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Also, the jig keeps everything from twisting from the heat cycles, while welding it back together. So you wait till it's completely cool before removing it from the jig. Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 So...since it looks like someone just rotated mine around. what should I look for to see if they did it right? Obvious cut and weld marks I assume? Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Ok...........I know this is an old thread. But I have a crossmember flipping question. Why not just cut and flip the thing still bolted into the car?? It's already in place, so no need for a Jig right? I guess welding up the bottom could prove problematic but your could cut it, flip it, tack it in place nicely then pull it out to finish welding it. Am I correct or would the car twist and move if you cut it out in place?? A jig is ez enough I guess. (especially the "welding the bar" technique) Just curious. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 if you just tack it in place then remove for finish welding it will tweek from the heat but doing it in the car make sense to me to weld it in the car though i personally like the idea of modifying the oil pan and pickup sure its more work but then everything suspension related is still stock making things in that department alot easier 2 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 if you just tack it in place then remove for finish welding it will tweek from the heat but doing it in the car make sense to me to weld it in the car though i personally like the idea of modifying the oil pan and pickup sure its more work but then everything suspension related is still stock making things in that department alot easier I'd rather, in the end, have a custom oil pan too. But I think it'll be alot more work and headache. More money too. Plus last time I did sheet metal I broke my brand new air shears..... Also I can't find any info on modding the pickup tube.. I get the idea but Can't find any posts or pictures on this. U got any? ?? Quote Link to comment
Hardwyre Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Nice, thanks guys! This gives me some ideas for how to go about making my cross member when I swap the VH45 into the Z. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 i know micro did one at some point i just dont remember where it is or for what car and seriously i got neg repped for my opinion? wow people 3 Quote Link to comment
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