RadioRedline Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Afternoon! I will be changing the Plugs, Cap & Rotor, and wires tonight on the 521. I have blew out the fuel line, and changed the fuel filter. It seems to have spark, but it starves for fuel. What else can I change? Radio Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 take the tank feed hose from fuel pump and put it in a gas can, then you will be able to isolate the fuel system, from the engine Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Probably the pump or clogged line/jets. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it to start with, find out what you're getting after the filter. Should be 3-4 pounds. Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted March 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Ok.. Changed plugs and wires. Had the wrong cap for L18 not L16 too big. Carb is getting gas blew out line bowl is 2/3, couldn't get it started so we Rechecked all plug gaps, firing order, timing. It was backfiring somewhere Btw the cap and carb my father in law figured. So he gapped the points reset The timing and checked for spark no problem and backfiring stopped now. We left it overnight to trickle charge and unflood as well as get a proper cap And rotor. Try some more tomorrow. And the spark plugs were bad! Not too much left Radio Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 how was it running before tune-up ? Test your Fuel Pump ? intake leak ? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 kinda obvious if wrong cap . ck valve lash tighten intake and carb bolts. How was plugs bad.??? New ones might help untill it floods out again.If you say it floods. Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted March 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 No No I didnt change the Cap. I had the wrong parts last night at 10 o clock lol. Radio Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted March 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Ok so It has to be the Cap. Which was ordered yesterday but comes today they Said from Winnipeg. I checked the Carb Bolts, and the Manifold Bolts. I even tried the original spark plugs jsut in case I had the wrong kind. It turns over and over, and backfires every so often, so Ron (Retired Journeyman & Father-In-Law) and Haynes Manual both say spark is jumping. I checked the Points Gap I checked the Spark Plug Gap I checked the firing order I checked the Wire connections I took off and examined the porcelain resistor I cleaned the battery cables up I checked for spark 10 times & its getting spark. The Haynes Manual basically states if you have spark its not the ignition coil, and spark is jumping, so change the cap. Ron said if there is a hairline crack in the cap, and it gets wet the truck won't like that. I said yup drove thru a puddle last fall and the truck sure bogged down. So I started with a Fuel Issue, and ended up with an ignition Issue!! Parts should be here today Fingers crossed! Radio Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 If you have spark, the valves closing. and pump the carb so you see gas shooting from the accell pum it should at least FIRE!!! or pour a slight about of gas from can. if you think carb float is casing it to flood out then put a dry set of plugs and give no gas and it should at least fire for a short bit. make sure the fire order is COUNTER clockwise. Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted March 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 DId the Pour Gas trick No Go.. There IS Fuel in the Bowl There IS Fuel in the Filter I will check everything again tonight. Radio Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Hear me when I say this. Many, many perceived carburetor problems are actually caused by the ignition system. A good strong spark will enable an engine to run quite well, even if the carburetor is not quite right. The point gap is critical. If they are too close, some of the spark energy, sparks at the point gap, and is not available to make the plugs fire. Too much gap, and the coil does not have enough time to fully saturate, and spark energy falls off. The best way to check point gap is to use a dwell meter, and set to 49 to 55 degrees. You really would benefit from some sort of a pointless ignition system. The engine is potentially over 40 years old. You should start troubleshooting with a compression test. Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted March 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 I have a compression Tester...I will do a test. I watched EricTheCarGuy on Youtube on how its done. And We checked the point Gap with a Feeler gauge. Radio Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted March 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 pointless ignition system...like who makes that? Radio Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 NISSAN!!! '79 and '80 (Canadian) 510s, '79 620s and '80 720 had exactly what you need. Get one for every L 4 cylinder you have. When you find one unbolt from the timing cover and take and keep the base pedestal with it. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30263-electronicmatchboxdistributor-80/page__pid__452170?do=findComment&comment=452170 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 The "HOW TO" section is loaded with electronic ignition conversions. I myself have never used a compression tester. Unless all the pistons or valves have crackes or holes in them it should still .fire at TDC zero on crank the rotor should be on a plug wire and points will be open. when you ck for spark I assume its from the center coil wire placed near ground? Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted March 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 K I Have one then! On my L20B from my 1980 720. Radio Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted April 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Changed cap and rotor now. It's really flooded I can smell gas on plugs. We checked dwell and it's a-ok. So I ordered a set of points. Radio Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted April 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Upon closer inspection... It looks like one of points is indeed bent... Radio Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted April 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 What else can I do if its not the points? Radio Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 YOu ck the fire order for sure?????????????? 1 3 4 2 Counter clockwise!!!!!!!!!! valve lash is good. You never really awnsered so I have to keep asking. If you say you have spark at the end of the coil wire then I say points work bent or not. Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted April 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 I checked Cyls 1 and 4 for spark several times. And I did Super check the order. just as you said Banzai, 1342 Haynes, and Olddatsuns.com and Banzai guy with the Rebuild L series video... Maybe thats what i'll do make a video next! Radio Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 this thing should fire up if not just something. i dont know unless I can see soemthing, condensor????? worn dizzy? Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted April 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 My father in Law is gonna see if the timing in the Distributor is off. He said it might not be sparking at the right time, and it does backfire quite a bit. Radio Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Ok someone suggested that because of the backfire issue, and everything else I've changed that I may have a timing gear worn? Thoughts? Or suggestions greatly appreciated! Radio Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 If backfiring its getting spark. or condensor bad. or you pulled out the ballast resistor and have a high output coil. YOu ck timming again? TDC where rotor at? was this thing running good at one time? and what made it change? You swapping parts? Quote Link to comment
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