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I will check Condensor.

 

The Porcelain resistor is still there and no cracks.

 

Coil Is Stock.

 

It ran very well. The parts I swapped were:

 

Plugs

Wires

Rotor

Cap

 

I have tried the Original Plugs just in case, same result.

 

Thanks for all the Help Banzai.

Radio

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I some times had proplem when I would put new points/condensor in it wouldnt run. Then I put the old one back in then it would run. Then I put the new one I just had back in then it would run.

Fuck if I knew what the proplem was the first time. this has happen twice to me. Once I got rid of points I never had proplems like this,

 

Point dizzys has 3 main things to look at.

1 dizzy wear. shaft is so loose it opens up the points when you dont want to thuse firing before or after it is needed.

2 Points wear/dwell. also if wrong ohm coil will cause to ARC inside cap.Its used just as a trigger so low current is all that is needed.

3 Condensor. Passes AC current but blocks DC current. Used to help keep the points from arching

 

Worn dizzy bushing. Bad condensor makes it back fire ,poping where one thinks its it could be a carb

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Put motor to TDC 11.28 on spindal timming mark on crank, Zero

 

Put the new dizzy on with the mount it came with. you can mount it 2 ways on the front cover.So up to you where you want it o 180 deg where the vac adv is in a good position or the matchbox in a good position

then when rorot rlocks down that should be your #1 and go 1 3 4 2 CCW

 

If you have a MSD Blaster 2 coils oe a 720 coil then you dont use the ballast resisitor.

 

if you dont have the EI coil , you would hook it up like a Pertronix and still use your stock coil with the ballast resisitor.(pull the wire from the -side that came from points)

B goes to the plus side ballast

C to minus side coil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there Radio, try this. While the key is on and you have spark, jump the starter with a screw driver, or better yet, use a remote starter switch. If it starts let me know and I will tell you what the problem probably is. Don't use the key to start it. I just thought of this, another route you can use is to hotwire the coil from the battery buy connecting a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil, then you can use the key to start it. What you are trying to do is make sure that the coil has power while you are turning it over, sometimes a wire(black with red line i think) gets disconnected from the coil somehow, this wire supplys power to the coil while the engine is being turned over with the key.

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Compression, ignition, fuel. Supply all three in the proper amount and time, and the engine will run. Millions of engines prove that every day.

I just listened to your video. Your battery sounds weak. The engine cranks fairly fast at the beginning, and then slows down, pretty early. It should crank strong for a while.

 

Check your compression. The minimum recommended by the factory service manual I have is 159 PSI, and no more than a 20% variance. A L-16 will run with lower compression, but not much lower, and it will use oil, more gas, and run poorly

 

The spark should easily jump a 1/4 to 3/8 gap. It should happen about 10 degrees BTDC.

 

If you have the above two conditions met, a teaspoon to a tablespoon of gas dumped down the carburetor should make the engine run briefly.

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Funny thing about that wire coming off my coil was, it would start no problem when it was warmed up, but when it was cold I had to hotwire the coil to get it to start, a full 12 volts. Then one day I was fiddling around and found the disconnected wire, looked it up in the wiring diagram, connected it up, and have never had to hotwire the truck again. But the real problem was that it would hit sometimes when I let off the key at the right time, so I never put it together, I just thought that the starter was taking/hogging all the juice.

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  • 6 months later...

Pulling this THREAD back from the Dead!

 

SAME ISSUE:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU0uWd9wxjY

 

You all know what I've done to try and get my Green Pickup running again. (If not read this thread)

 

Recap!

I checked the Points Gap

I checked the Spark Plug Gap

I checked the firing order

I checked the Wire connections

I took off and examined the porcelain resistor

I cleaned the battery cables up

I checked for spark 10 times & its getting spark.

There IS Fuel in the Bowl

There IS Fuel in the Filter

We checked dwell and it's a-ok....

 

 

***NEW PART***

If I change the Distributor to a brand new unit that works 100% (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-Nissan-Pickup-Truck-510-521-4Cyl-1-6L-L16-/190588040169?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5feeb3e9#ht_2721wt_1413)

 

WHAT will be left to change if this doesn't work?

 

Thanks!

 

:) Radio

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WHAT will be left to change if this doesn't work? The Owner.

 

laying on the starter like you did in the vedio isnt going to do any thing. if it dont even sound like sparking off your just overheating/draning the system.

 

take the coil wire and show us(vedio) the spark when starting.

Or show us the HOT wire is getting 12volts with key in START(disconnect STARTER wire)

show the blk white wire with key ON 12volts).

 

IF you have spark then show us the distrbutor spindal in the 11.28 position then install the dizzy and show us how you put the wires on.

 

next is valve lash.

intake tight

Carb tight.

accel pump work on carb(should light off if enough gas is dumpoed in there, the fumes should ignite)

 

set all this up and video tape this. This is a simple15min job unless theres all holes in the pistons or soemthing.

 

 

sparkplugs?

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Small wire from Dist. body to points may be toast....not letting the points do there job....test with ohm meter.

 

Could also have a bad connection at that spot.....check clean (Take plastic block out of Dist....inspect bolt, clean if dirty)

 

The bolt holding the wire onto the plastic little block on my Dist. was dirty..(Power coming in)..dropping voltage down to 6-7 volts at the points, not enough to fire off the coil.

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