Topher88 Posted August 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 time to put all the suspension back Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 Up till 5 getting r done Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 things are starting to come together. i have a few questions. since this is my first time messing with this stuff where to the next following things connect to I know there is one 3/4 elbow that hooks up to the intercooler piping but where dose the brass 90 in the back go along with the 2 other nipples then on my freddy intake manifold there are three threaded holes at the bottom of the mani that im not to sure what goes in there I purchased my motor with parts in boxes and i am assuming that the top hole is part of the emissions? or am i way off and they are part of the cooling lastly all you SR guys how did you run your lines off the PCV and the other T in the valve cover cool pic's i thought Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 mmm low F stop... and SR... mmmmmm Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 TO do list Polishing - IC, pipe, rad Oil lines Injectors Plugs Get a bunch of bolts Wiring Gas pedal Run new clutch and brake lines Run fuel line Mount fuel pump seat brackets Wide band gauge Air filter of some sort Sway bar BMW head lights Hood pins Mount tac and I'm sure a lot more...... FML Quote Link to comment
72dyme Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Looking good, keep up the good work. I'll buy that JCCS spot off of u, if your not gonna be able to make it. Quote Link to comment
Rustbucket Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 There's a barb further down the back of the motor to connect the rear barb of the tee. The other will go to your catch can, as it used to feed the factory intake elbow off the turbo. Quote Link to comment
calistile Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 What kind of ideas you got going for fuel (tank, pump, lines, etc). I'm planning to revamp my setup. Currently I use the stock rail and injectors. Modified the existing 510 gas tank and welded in a Z31 intank fuel pump assembly. Ran new hardlines. My idea is to run Earls stainless flex lines and utilize AN fittings to minimize areas of potential leaks and get a better seal than clamps. Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 I have a fuel cell with a sending unit and foam blocks inside. The fiel tank is already set up with AN fittings so im running 6 an stainles to the walbro 255 then hard lines to the fpr and from there 6 an stainless to the rail and for the return 6 an stainless to hard lines all the way back and finally back to 6 an stainless to the cell Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Oh and I'm still debating on weather or not to run a surge tank.... But i will also be putting a fuel filter somewhere in the mess of everything Quote Link to comment
calistile Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Are you using 6AN on the flex to the hard lines? Or just clamped on? Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 6an on hard lines to flex except for the return line off the fuel rail. I don't have an aftermarket fuel rail Quote Link to comment
Cmac Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Circuit-Sports-Side-Feed-Fuel-Rail-Kit-S13-S14-S15-Silvia-180SX-SR20-SR20DET-/360439782511?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ebe29c6f&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1180 just a thought check out the link above and it uses side feed injectors as well. or you can tap a pipe threaded 6an adaptor at the end of the stock rail for your return line. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Topher, I dont think you will have to run a surge tank since you have anti sloshing bricks in the tank. Does your tank have a small sump where the an pick up fittings are? Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Topher, I dont think you will have to run a surge tank since you have anti sloshing bricks in the tank. Does your tank have a small sump where the an pick up fittings are? Ya there is a little sump at the back where the an fittings are. And I graded the tank a little so the fuel always go to the fittings Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Ya there is a little sump at the back where the an fittings are. And I graded the tank a little so the fuel always go to the fittings I wouldnt worry about it then. you should see the cup for a 240sx tank that the fuel pump pickup strainer sits in. Kind of scary, it only has one 3/8 hole in it. I know I am going to have to modify that since my fuel demands are going to be greater than a KA24DE. Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I wouldnt worry about it then. you should see the cup for a 240sx tank that the fuel pump pickup strainer sits in. Kind of scary, it only has one 3/8 hole in it. I know I am going to have to modify that since my fuel demands are going to be greater than a KA24DE. Good to know. I'm going to be running 810 injectors so I need to be able to empty my cell within a few minutes lol 1 Quote Link to comment
nismosilvia Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Hey Topher Nice build! Now pls stop harrasing the Justin Beiver fan page. Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Hey Topher Nice build! Now pls stop harrasing the Justin Beiver fan page. ? Quote Link to comment
Cmac Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Threaded holes in the bottom of the intake should be for vacuum lines. The T breather line on your valve cover usually gets converted to a single and than runs to a catch can the breather from your block also goes to the same catch can. You may be able to see what I mean in these photos http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2389121/1973-datsun-510 Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Ya I already have my Greddy catch can. I'm going to get a 90 and replace the T and run both te crank breather and the 90 to te catch can. Ok do will stock intake vacume lines hook up to the Freddy intake? Quote Link to comment
Cmac Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 I used a pipe thread fitting to 3an push on fitting for my lines then silicon lines to the FPR, WG and BOV. and a 6an to the PVC valve. My Boost controller and Waist Gate came with 4an sized lines and I need to up the size when the parts show up. AN fittings are the point of no return I like XRP and have a local supplier that has helped me out a ton with what should go were. Id say find a local shop and use them you will get your moneys worth just in information. Quote Link to comment
sycloned916 Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 The Brass 90' on the Intake(rear) would go to power brake booster, the two little nipples on the IACV go to the throttle body for coolant(cold start). Quote Link to comment
Topher88 Posted September 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Thanks Skib Putting the 3/4 vacuums nipple right above the maf so it's a strait shot to the intake nipple This is going to be a busy little corner Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Is it normal in SR swaps to have that twist in the intercooler piping?- seems a little excessive. Quote Link to comment
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