wayno Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 I did get some work done today, have a L16 intake with a weber carb on it, as there is no room for the dual SUs. I will atempt to start it tomarrow after I bypass the heater core hoses, and put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank, I hope it starts. I had to do some fabbing to get the throddle linkage the way I wanted it, hope it works. 1 Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 wow wayno, i have to give you props for the millions of spot welds and fab work getting this thing not only to a king cab but to ute also!!! :hyper: thats awesome! it looks really good, i cant wait for this thing to be in paint! im sure you cant as well. keep up the good work! :cool: 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 wow wayno, i have to give you props for the millions of spot welds and fab work getting this thing not only to a king cab but to ute also!!! :hyper: thats awesome! it looks really good, i cant wait for this thing to be in paint! im sure you cant as well. keep up the good work! :cool: Thankyou hacked521, I strive for differant. I am unsure about the paint, fact is that this was not easy to get it even close to strait, all the welding, cutting, drilling, and all the welding, I was/am lucky it doesn't look like a banana, as it is the gate is not centered in the back, and I am very baffled about this, but a bed cover will hide most of that issue. As for paint, I am thinking matte, and something to draw ones attention away from the lines and the little imperfections, maybe lines other than the body lines. I have a long ways to go though, once it is drivable I will go back to the body again. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing worse than the 521 kingcab had, except more of it. If I can get it road worthy, then it will get done faster, I do beleave this will be the last frame change for this cab.:unsure: :unsure: :rolleyes: :D 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 I started it today, warmed it up, oil light works, ign. light works, so it's charging I beleave, fuel gauge works, but the temp senser doesn't work properly, when I turn on the ignition, it goes to full hot, and it doesn't matter if the wire is connected to the senser or not, I have a short/ground somewhere in that circut. So now I need to work on the brake and clutch systems, the clutch is not going to be an issue, but the brakes I have not a clue about on this frame. The power steering also worked great.:D Got to run around doing bids tomarrow, so not sure what I will get done on the truck tomarrow. :( 1 Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 i am missing so many cool builds....like this one!.... great stuff wayno. *suscribed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 ok I am unfamiliar with the 520 engine bay, but did you have to mod the engine bay so the L series could fit? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 ok I am unfamiliar with the 520 engine bay, but did you have to mod the engine bay so the L series could fit? I had to cut the lip off that goes across between the shelves and weld up the seam, the engine valve cover is almost touching the firewall, see the piece of metal sticking out that would hit the head if it continued across the firewall, I cut it out. This is a photo of the back of the head, not much room back there. And this is what I have between the fan and radiator, I am going to loosen all the body mount bolts, and try to force the cab back a 1/4 of an inch, that will move the fan closer to the radiator, but I have a little fudging room. I had a little more room behind the head when it was on the 4X4 frame, so I beleave it will work itself out. I went to the wrecking yard today to buy all the brake lines I need, but they wanted almost $30.00 for 5 lines, I can buy new for that more than likely. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hi Wayno, Just wondering if you can remove your valve cover? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hi Wayno, Just wondering if you can remove your valve cover? Yes, I did pry it off there, after I got it off, I couldn't beleave how close the cam tower was to the firewall, then I wondered if I could get the valve cover back on.:lol: :lol: As I said, maybe tomarrow I will loosen all the cab mounts and try to pry it back a quarter of an inch of more, I had more room back there when it was on the 4X4 frame, so I should be able to move it back a little without having to make new holes. At least I am working on it again, although the weather is slowing me down. The last couple days I have been messing around with a 5 speed tranny mount for the 521 chassis, and I cannot seem to find a happy middle, to low or to high, but I think I have it. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have a little room behind the valve cover now, I got about a quarter inch of movement using a winch, to get any more I will have to modify the body mount holes. I also made a power brake booster mount, and mounted the booster, it's really tight in there, am going to have to rework the throddle cable linkage again, but this is what it is about, making a vehicle for me, with all the stuff I want. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 Didn't get to work much on the truck today, but I did win .65 cents golfing.:P I did work on it a little this evening, I ordered a 1979 datsun 620 brake master cylinder, and tried to install it, but I ran into an issue, it is really tight in there, and the bleeder screw for the front bore is hitting the intake manifold base. :( I also reworked the throddle cable mount, as you can see, I reshaped it, and made a few bends, but I think it will work. So I decided to go another route, but no worries, as I have the work truck that needs a master upgrade also. I decided to use another brake master I have had for a little while, it is set up differantly, as you can see, lots of room 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 I had to make a bracket for the brake reservoir, it took a while to get it just right, but I was successful. And this is when I quit tonight. I will need to pipe the brake lines this weekend, the cool thing about this brake master, is it has two outlets for the front brakes, so I need no blocks to turn one front brake line into two, but that does force me to use a brake switch on the pedal, instead of using the pressure switch on the firewall. :rolleyes: 1 Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 Hey Wayno, can you tell me what that master is from? What size is the bore? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 Hey Wayno, can you tell me what that master is from? What size is the bore? It's out of a ford courier, and it is 7/8 bore, it also has a fairly small booster, but this booster in the 66 is from a 620, as it is smaller. I used the ford courier booster in my 521 diesel, with a 79 datsun 620 brake master. Here it is with the 79 datsun 620 brake master. I also used the ford booster and brake master in my 47 chevy heavy duty commercial truck, as it will fit under the floor boards and with a bracket, I could use the stock brake pedal. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 The 66 datsun 520 is able to move under its own power now, the power brakes are in and operational, e-brake is functional, i cut the new shifter hole, and installed the shifter, and I temporarily re-installed the bench seat, and the reconfigured throddle cable works also. I broke one of the rear brake fluid bleeders off, and then broke an easy-out off trying to get it out, so then I bought a new brake cylinder for that side. I still have to connect a hose from the engine case vent tube to the PCV, but I am going to have to modify the case tube, as it points directly at the power brake booster in its stock configuration, I think I am going to have to set it up like an L16, and since I am using a L16 exhaust manifold, that shouldn't be an issue, just have to find a hose that will fit. I also had to make a power brake hose, since it is two differant sizes at each end, what I did was take the smaller hose, find a sleeve and sleeve the inside of it, then I found a bigger hose for the other end, forced it over the sleeved part of the smaller hose and clamped it, and now I had a hose with two differant sized ends, here is a oic. of it installed. Tomarrow I will see about wiring the taillights, then all that will be needed to make it road legal is getting tags for it, it is already in my name as an non-operational vehicle. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Things didn't work out the way I was hoping today, I tried to install the taillight buckets, but the frame was in the way, then I measured the truck box side to side, it was off by an inch, while trying to center it, I lost all I had gained getting the firewall away from the engine, so I removed most the mount bolts, connected a come along to the bottom of the cab and the rear frame cross member, and I pulled the freak'n cab back half an inch, made new mount holes and bolted it down, by the time I was done I lost half of what I had gained again, but that is alright, because it is still a quarter inch away still, besides, moving it around screws other things up. This is what the taillight buckets looked like before I mounted them, but I still have to wire them. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 I know this is posting oics. for the sake of posting them, but here I go. I have brake lights. I have a left turn signal, and it took only one try to get it while it was on. :D Right turn signal, got lucky again, first try. :D And here are the park lights. and here is a right turn signal with park lights on, got lucky again, first try, thinking about a lottery ticket at the moment,:lol: Then I put the lenses on and took one with park lights, and brake lights. I tucked the wiring up under the box, still have to get the lic. plate light going, but making progress while Ratsun was down. :rolleyes: 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 I worked on the truck today, I have been looking at an issue I have had with the pass. side sheet metal I put in place, and I have got used to the 69KC window back there, so I cut all the metal out and started over. I then cut a door up that was aquired for just this purpose, and this is what it looks like before install. This is what it looks like installed, but no finished yet. I still need to delete the handle and lock hole, but that isn't that important at the moment. I put a full length channel in this truck, as I do want the window to go up and down right away. I am debating if I will do the drivers side right away, as it doesn't create a blind spot, and I also have seen a couple cool things done that I might be interested in doing. 3 Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Like'n this build! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I finished putting the window frame in and filling the gaps. And then I added the rockers to the back wheel well, it was a pain in the ass making it look proper where it meets the fender well. I will likely make a cap to stop crap from getting inside the rocker, but for now I am just getting all the things I want on the truck in position. It is difficult to get everything strait when everything is bent or warped on the truck, after all it is almost 48 years old. 1 Quote Link to comment
tdaaj Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 looks good wayno 1 Quote Link to comment
lovedatsun Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I worked on the truck today, I have been looking at an issue I have had with the pass. side sheet metal I put in place, and I have got used to the 69KC window back there, so I cut all the metal out and started over. I then cut a door up that was aquired for just this purpose, and this is what it looks like before install. This is what it looks like installed, but no finished yet. I still need to delete the handle and lock hole, but that isn't that important at the moment. I put a full length channel in this truck, as I do want the window to go up and down right away. I am debating if I will do the drivers side right away, as it doesn't create a blind spot, and I also have seen a couple cool things done that I might be interested in doing. Very nice process. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I did the driverside today, front of the fender well and in back of it, what do you guys think? It went a little faster today as I knew what I was going to do on this rocker, yesterday I was winging it. this I had to figure out how and how much I was going to add. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Rear pass. side is done now also, it turned out better as the skirt wasn't bent like the other side. 1 Quote Link to comment
'70 521 L16 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 this thing is looking really nice... i love the way the bed flows now. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
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