1971 PL521

[wayno]

It looks fairly good, I agree that the dizzy drive looks more like 12 noon, but you can deal with that later if needed.

If there is a groove on the cam gear, it will only line up once every I beleave 12 revolutions, I know this because I lined everything up once and turned it till the marks lined up again.

When you remove the cam bolt that holds the gear on, note which hole number the dowel on the cam is in, it should be #2, also mark the chain and cam gear with a felt pen or punch, as you cannot remove the head with the cam gear connected to the chain, I have tried before.

Have you made a timing chain block to hold the tensioner in place yet?

[The Birdman]

Nice seat! How much did that set you back?

 

Because he did work for me before, and he knows I'll bring him more, he did the bench for $200.

[wayno]

Because he did work for me before, and he knows I'll bring him more, he did the bench for $200.

 

That's a deal! :thumbup:

[The Birdman]

It looks fairly good, I agree that the dizzy drive looks more like 12 noon, but you can deal with that later if needed.

If there is a groove on the cam gear, it will only line up once every I beleave 12 revolutions, I know this because I lined everything up once and turned it till the marks lined up again.

When you remove the cam bolt that holds the gear on, note which hole number the dowel on the cam is in, it should be #2, also mark the chain and cam gear with a felt pen or punch, as you cannot remove the head with the cam gear connected to the chain, I have tried before.

Have you made a timing chain block to hold the tensioner in place yet?

 

I've been looking for the right stick to use. How tight should it be? I'm planning on pulling the front cover off anyway, the whole thing is in my opinion not clean enough to just go in as it is. I've had it on the engine stand in the garage for the last few days and it left a small puddle of oil on the floor, which tells me I need to go through the whole thing, especially since it's not supposed to have any oil in it! I really don't trust that this engine is all they said it is, so I'm tearing it down to see what's really in need of attention before it gets my stamp of approval. I've taken some of the time while waiting for it to arrive to clean and paint the parts from the L16 that I'll be transferring over to the L20B like the intake, pulleys, running a die over the bolts threads, lots of cleaning. So if I'm taking the front cover off, I don't really need to stick the tensioner. I also have my head shop scouting a U67 head and hope to do some horse trading for it, I think he wants a set of Corvette heads I have.

[Tristin]

Yeah pretty good deal. Looks like quality work... I ask because Im about to have two bench seats recovered.

[The Birdman]

Yeah pretty good deal. Looks like quality work... I ask because Im about to have two bench seats recovered.

 

He started out at $250, but we both knew he would do it for less, just had to talk him down and remind him I had more work for him when the price was right! He went above by adding a black carpet backing behind the springs and between the padding top and bottom for more stability and a cleaner look, I was impressed! If you get it done I'd ask them to do the same thing, you can see it in this pic of the back of the seat.

[Tristin]

Hmmm Ill have to check that out when I get mine done. Ill have a bunch of work for whenever I get an upholsterer as well.

[wayno]

I've been looking for the right stick to use. How tight should it be? I'm planning on pulling the front cover off anyway, the whole thing is in my opinion not clean enough to just go in as it is. I've had it on the engine stand in the garage for the last few days and it left a small puddle of oil on the floor, which tells me I need to go through the whole thing, especially since it's not supposed to have any oil in it! I really don't trust that this engine is all they said it is, so I'm tearing it down to see what's really in need of attention before it gets my stamp of approval. I've taken some of the time while waiting for it to arrive to clean and paint the parts from the L16 that I'll be transferring over to the L20B like the intake, pulleys, running a die over the bolts threads, lots of cleaning. So if I'm taking the front cover off, I don't really need to stick the tensioner. I also have my head shop scouting a U67 head and hope to do some horse trading for it, I think he wants a set of Corvette heads I have.

 

 

I pound mine in with a hammer, but I seen one guy on here use a bent over(in half) piece of garden hose.

A U67 head will allow you to use your stock L16 intake manifold, that is good, you will also need to use the L16 oilpan and oil pickup tube, as the L20 oilpan is differant, although now that I think about it, it might not make a differance since yours is a 4X4.

The L20b front cover is taller than the L16, so that cannot be transfered.

I wonder about pulling the engine apart like your talking about, you will just find more you quite likely are not going to like, but you will know more afterwards which is good. :rolleyes:

[Z chopper]

take lots of photos of the engine while you are takeing it apart and hope the company you bought it from is a member of the BBB just incase

[The Birdman]

I pound mine in with a hammer, but I seen one guy on here use a bent over(in half) piece of garden hose.

A U67 head will allow you to use your stock L16 intake manifold, that is good, you will also need to use the L16 oilpan and oil pickup tube, as the L20 oilpan is differant, although now that I think about it, it might not make a differance since yours is a 4X4.

The L20b front cover is taller than the L16, so that cannot be transfered.

I wonder about pulling the engine apart like your talking about, you will just find more you quite likely are not going to like, but you will know more afterwards which is good. :rolleyes:

 

I have all the parts from the L16 cleaned and painted, ready to go. The L20 front cover is cruddy and needs serious cleaning,as I think the oil leak was from the bottom where it meets the oil pan. I really don't want to have to tear it all apart, but it seems to be the only real way to make sure all is good before it goes in. Yeah, I'll get a serious education, just my luck, lol! :rofl:

[The Birdman]

take lots of photos of the engine while you are takeing it apart and hope the company you bought it from is a member of the BBB just incase

 

Once I got the engine, I started taking pictures. Once on the hoist, I took more pictures! Now it's on the engine stand and I'm taking it apart, the camera is working overtime! When I take the head to my local shop, I'll have him give me an evaluation of the overall condition and if need be, back bill the company for costs, same with the block. I don't think they will warranty any of the peripheral parts, just the block and head. We'll see what shows up soon!

[The Birdman]

Hmmm Ill have to check that out when I get mine done. Ill have a bunch of work for whenever I get an upholsterer as well.

 

Good luck! Take before and after pics, love to see them!

[Sealik]

I really don't want to have to tear it all apart, but it seems to be the only real way to make sure all is good before it goes in. Yeah, I'll get a serious education, just my luck, lol! :rofl:

 

I would of been tempted to slap a trannie and starter on it while sitting on the ground and giving it a compression test....and a leak down test if need be

Give you a heads up on the condition of the rings and head before you tear it apart

Of course documenting the whole process for the company that sold you a 'new' short/long block

[jrock4224]

i will admit i come in hee hoping for a pics update and its always a wall of text.....my posts wearout my eyesight so i have to save this read for when a truck is powsted....nice seat little expensive....here in datstonia we bought soem ghey cheap seatcovers and are hog ringing them on for now....getting a seat covered in basic stuff started at 350.00

[The Birdman]

I would of been tempted to slap a trannie and starter on it while sitting on the ground and giving it a compression test....and a leak down test if need be

Give you a heads up on the condition of the rings and head before you tear it apart

Of course documenting the whole process for the company that sold you a 'new' short/long block

 

I don't have a test setup at the moment that could make cranking the motor easy, but it's on my list of things to do in the very near future. I've seen a few real nice setups that make hooking up a radiator, battery, and fuel easy and aren't huge and hard to store when not in use. I want to fabricate one that works with a "Motofeet" set of legs that can be hoisted on and off easily, bolted down and run.

[The Birdman]

Fun, fun, fun! had work the last few days and got to taking the head off. Tried to loosen up the number 1 bolt in the sequence and it was tight as hell! Changed to a longer breaker bar and it finally loosened up! But it went downhill from there! On the next bolt in sequence the breaker bar broke off in the hex socket!

I didn't have another 10mm hex so I had to scout the area, no luck! Next day I picked up an impact socket, 1/2 inch drive so i was able to use a longer bar.

Bolt #2 broke off

#3&4 came out alright, #5&6 broke off and were rusted

 

Overall, 6 bolts were broken in the block! Rust, carbon buildup, and the head was still not coming off! I;ll give it another try tomorrow! The cam sprocket was no problem and was in dowel hole # 1.

[wayno]

This is amazing, in my whole life, I have never had a head bolt break.

It's just getting worse everyday/post, that is not a rebuilt engine, if I was you, I would send it back.

The only avenue you have now other than sending it back, is to take it to a machine shop and see if they can get the bolts out of the holes, or maybe if they cannot get them out, they can drill them perfectly in the center, then run a tap in the holes to clean out the threads, either way you are basicly going to put a bunch of money into this.

If you were close, I would sell you a runner that I personally drove, although I don't really know the history, it's got to be better than what you have gotten so far.

What a nightmare.

What other datsun/nissan trucks/cars you have in the wrecking yards down there?

[The Birdman]

Fun stuff huh! Yeah it feels like I'm in a battle running out of ammo! But I'm at the table and I'm pot committed! I've covered about all the wrecking yards in the area for something to cannibalize, but it's slim pickins here. All I can do is push on. I'm not going to let it kick my ass, so I'll keep on keepin on! If I have to put out for new bolts, I might as well go with studs and do it the way I think best. I'll get the rubber mallet on the head in the morning and pop the head off, see what other surprises are waiting for me!

[mrbigtanker]

Fun stuff huh! Yeah it feels like I'm in a battle running out of ammo! But I'm at the table and I'm pot committed! I've covered about all the wrecking yards in the area for something to cannibalize, but it's slim pickins here. All I can do is push on. I'm not going to let it kick my ass, so I'll keep on keepin on! If I have to put out for new bolts, I might as well go with studs and do it the way I think best. I'll get the rubber mallet on the head in the morning and pop the head off, see what other surprises are waiting for me!

 

BIrdman check with Datsun parts llc his name is Allen,i know he has what you need or he will point you in the right direction.And good luck God knows we all need it driving a Datsun.haha

[wayno]

I put a stud kit in my LZ23, it was the only way to fix my headgasket issue, ARP #202-4201

[The Birdman]

BIrdman check with Datsun parts llc his name is Allen,i know he has what you need or he will point you in the right direction.And good luck God knows we all need it driving a Datsun.haha

 

I've already done some biz with Datsun Parts, bought some bolts from them on eBay. Thanks bro!

[The Birdman]

I put a stud kit in my LZ23, it was the only way to fix my headgasket issue, ARP #202-4201

 

That's the number I found, now just finding the best price!

I tried separating the head fro the block today. Last night i tapped the sides with a rubber mallet with no luck! So today I put the engine stand under the engine hoist, chained the head to the hoist with some upward lift opposing the weight of the block on the stand, and can you believe it, it still won't separate! I've been at it for over an hour and tapping it on both sides and both ends and it STILL won't budge! I just sprayed a bit of penetrating spray all around the deck and in the bolt holes, going to let it sit for a while to see if it loosens things up!

[wayno]

There are 10 big bolts and 2 small bolts on the front, the chain needs to be off of the cam.

The chain on the sprocket won't fit threw the head.

I have never had the issues you are having, like you, I would never give up, an object is not going to beat me.

Are you going to use this W58 head?

[The Birdman]

Neither have I!!! I think based on the bolts that broke and their location, somewhere during the time this engine was running there was a head gasket leaking water near the #2 & 3 cylinders because the bolts were rusted where they broke, and they were all in the center area of the block on both sides. I can't see why the head and block won't separate yet, but my guess would be someone used a real tacky gasket sealer on both sides to fix the leaks. I was able to pull the front cover, sprocket and chain which gave me another area to try tapping the head loose, but it still won't move! I decided to use some penetrating spray in the cylinders to try and loosen up from the inside as well. At this point it looks to me as if I'm all in on this engine as far as making everything right before it goes back together, no other way!

[wayno]

Are you going to use the head that is on it?