The Birdman Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 A rebuilt long block with 3 year warranty. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 A rebuilt long block with 3 year warranty. Do you have the warranty paperwork there to look at? Where is it from, what company is it that supposedly rebuilt it? I once bought a rebuilt engine from a H&H rebuilder company in spokane, they just cleaned them up and my have re-ringed them, but I suspect they tested them and if they passed their criteria, they sold them with a 7 year warranty, I went threw 3 longblocks before I sold the truck just to get rid of it, I lost my ass on that truck, I bought it for $8500.00, drove it for about 6 months, put that rebuilt engine in it, and over the next year and a half, was able to drive it maybe another 4 or 5 months intermittently between engines being R&Red, I finally replaced a headgasket again and sold it for $3000.00 cash. Since you have already spent the money, keep cool and maybe you will get what you paid for. Who did you buy it from? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 love a 4x4 521... Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted September 25, 2012 Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 love a 4x4 521... Thanks, the thought of a 521 4X4 lead me to buy it! I just hope the cost to bring it back to life doesn't get too out of hand! Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted September 25, 2012 Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 Do you have the warranty paperwork there to look at? Where is it from, what company is it that supposedly rebuilt it? I once bought a rebuilt engine from a H&H rebuilder company in spokane, they just cleaned them up and my have re-ringed them, but I suspect they tested them and if they passed their criteria, they sold them with a 7 year warranty, I went threw 3 longblocks before I sold the truck just to get rid of it, I lost my ass on that truck, I bought it for $8500.00, drove it for about 6 months, put that rebuilt engine in it, and over the next year and a half, was able to drive it maybe another 4 or 5 months intermittently between engines being R&Red, I finally replaced a headgasket again and sold it for $3000.00 cash. Since you have already spent the money, keep cool and maybe you will get what you paid for. Who did you buy it from? I'm still waiting on whatever they're going to send next! I'm holding the L16 hostage till they get it right Lol! Hey I think I asked this before, but what other cars or trucks are the radiators interchangeable with the 521? I thought I heard the 510's used the same one, but I'd like to know for sure before I dish out more unnecessary bucks! I'd like to find a new crossflow in aluminum if possible, but a stock one will do in a pinch. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 I'm still waiting on whatever they're going to send next! I'm holding the L16 hostage till they get it right Lol! Hey I think I asked this before, but what other cars or trucks are the radiators interchangeable with the 521? I thought I heard the 510's used the same one, but I'd like to know for sure before I dish out more unnecessary bucks! I'd like to find a new crossflow in aluminum if possible, but a stock one will do in a pinch. This is a L block 510 radiator, as far as I can tell, it will bolt into my 521. To have a cross flow radiator, you will have to find one in a wrecking yard that looks like it will fit, and then make somekind of mounts for it, but I suppose someone has made an aftermarket one for the 510/521, but I bet they are spendy. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 This is a L block 510 radiator, as far as I can tell, it will bolt into my 521. To have a cross flow radiator, you will have to find one in a wrecking yard that looks like it will fit, and then make somekind of mounts for it, but I suppose someone has made an aftermarket one for the 510/521, but I bet they are spendy. I went to my local boneyard to scout for older datsuns, and of the 15 acres found 4, none of which were 521's, but a 620 had what looked to be a nice radiator. I pulled it and found out they wanted $85 + tax! Hell, I talked to a guy today about an aluminum 510 for $126 out the door new! I guess that may be the way to go at this point. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 I went to my local boneyard to scout for older datsuns, and of the 15 acres found 4, none of which were 521's, but a 620 had what looked to be a nice radiator. I pulled it and found out they wanted $85 + tax! Hell, I talked to a guy today about an aluminum 510 for $126 out the door new! I guess that may be the way to go at this point. Just make sure you measure the mount holes to make sure it will fit, along with the outlets being in the correct place of course. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 I used a 510....radiator in my 521 for a month or two while i had mine resealed ......bolted up was a bit taller...but not noticeable ....it on loan to anothe 521'r and is in use now..... Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 Just make sure you measure the mount holes to make sure it will fit, along with the outlets being in the correct place of course. I have room to go wider and only minor mounting concerns, but the height is where I have to be more sure. I'm looking to mount a pusher fan in front of it so if I have to mount the radiator more towards the engine it gives me some room to play. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 I used a 510....radiator in my 521 for a month or two while i had mine resealed ......bolted up was a bit taller...but not noticeable ....it on loan to anothe 521'r and is in use now..... How much clearance from the hood was there and how much over the support was the top of it? Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I found an new aluminum radiator that with a bit of cutting will do really nicely! It's made for a Mazda RX car and even though the top outlet is on the other side, it's not going to be hard to run a flex hose over, and for the price and the fact there isn't a whole lot of other choices it was hard to pass up! $114 out the door, new in the box. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 maybe a 1/4 inch Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 maybe a 1/4 inch I got it handled with this Mazda radiator. When I cut a bit of the front support (which was already cut for some reason!) this new one will tuck in nicely and add a bigger space between the front of the engine. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Made my cuts and opened up the space for the Mazda RX-7 Aluminum radiator to fit, wasn't too bad I think it came out nice. It moved the radiator location a few inches toward the grill and cut easily. Her is the area before the cutting. Here it is after cutting. And with the radiator in place. Lots to do still. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 It looks nice in there, it's kinda weird though that you would have clearance issues, the radiator doesn't look that thick. A custom upper radiator hose shouldn't be an issue. The engine compartment is very clean, good job. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Were it not for the mounting brackets on the new radiator, i might not have had to cut much, but it is wider than the stock one for the 521 by a few inches. The mounting on the Mazda was at an angle so cutting forward kind of just helped tuck it under the radiator support and the hood latch. 1 Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Got word today the next shipment of engine will be Tomorrow, keeping my fingers crossed it's right and good! Took an hour to pull the bench seat out, and rip out the carpet to see how much cancer the 40 year old not-so-virgin had hidden! I figured there would be a few holes and a lot of time to spend in it and was not surprised to find the rust! Got a bit of cutting and pasting to do in there! 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 It looks like you have a little replacement metal needed, just remember that you don't weld sheet metal, you tack/spot weld the pieces in, like in the photo below. One spot at a time about 4 inches apart, then in between each spot weld, then in between again, repeat, repeat, ect, ect, till they almost touch each other, this way the metal don't get hot and warp. Keep in mind that you never spot weld to close together, once the spot welds start to get close together, start moving ahead 3 or 4 inches skipping over a few gaps so the metal doesn't get hot. You also need clean un-rusted metal to weld to, otherwise it will just blow away. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 fyi that probably took wayno a weekend to get that far to ....lol....welding sheetmetal is a fine art ..go fast and learn to be a body man ... go slow save your self hours of pained block sanding... although yours is th efloor so let her eat i guess....lol Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 fyi that probably took wayno a weekend to get that far to ....lol....welding sheetmetal is a fine art ..go fast and learn to be a body man ... go slow save your self hours of pained block sanding... although yours is th efloor so let her eat i guess....lol Cutting the that piece of sheet metal to the proper shape, sanding it all to bare metal, and spot welding it into position probably took a day total(8 hrs), there is likely about 500 spot welds/tacks holding that piece on. I'll tell you this, it takes time to sand the stock paint off and get down to bare metal, even with an orbital sander. The first time I did it to my 521KC, I had to do it twice, as the first time I tried welding it in(running a bead), and it got hot and warped. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 chemical stripper or send it over to me and i will media blast it ... do it all the time .. im special and can not warp shit ...wayno is a artist.... ps wayno im still 6-7" i still need your extra cab please... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 It's really not that hard to make one, it took me a week mostly part time to put the last kingcab shell together. You need one good 521 cab, another good back half of a 520/21 cab(windshield back, front of door back), with the doors, and a cab top off of a 520/21. What takes time is all the rest of it, bodywork, fitting tracks if you want rear windows that will go up and down, finding a good 720KC frame, unless you want to stretch the stock frame, which is a lot more work for less benefits, as you get balljoints, disc brakes and power steering, removable tranny cross member, it's easier to lower, as the 720 shocks are taller, so if you put 521 shocks on the 720 frame, you can quite possibly get moar loar, and the 720KC frame allows a 10 inch extention with the stock box I beleave, and a 14 inch extention with the stepside box. I have also started using longshaft 5 spd. transmissions now, as I have found that I have to lean forward to get it into 1st, 3rd, 5th gears with the shortshaft in there, as my seat is so far back, so the shifter being 5 inches farther back is a plus. I guess I just have to rub it in sometimes, after all, it may have taken a week to put the last shell together, but it took a month to do it the first time, so I get some laughs knowing I have one of the few around, BTW, legroom is not over rated. :) :D :lol: Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 It looks like you have a little replacement metal needed, just remember that you don't weld sheet metal, you tack/spot weld the pieces in, like in the photo below. One spot at a time about 4 inches apart, then in between each spot weld, then in between again, repeat, repeat, ect, ect, till they almost touch each other, this way the metal don't get hot and warp. Keep in mind that you never spot weld to close together, once the spot welds start to get close together, start moving ahead 3 or 4 inches skipping over a few gaps so the metal doesn't get hot. You also need clean un-rusted metal to weld to, otherwise it will just blow away. I plan to try to cut out only what I have to, and with the heat here I don't want to be in a hot cab any longer than I have to! I got a call today from the transport company that the engine is held up in Fresno so i won't get to see it till Wednesday now! not like i don't have enough to do anyway, huh! I took the bench seat to my favorite upholsterer and he'll have the seat done in a week, I'm in no hurry for that yet but wanted to get to it while the bucks still exist! Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 fyi that probably took wayno a weekend to get that far to ....lol....welding sheetmetal is a fine art ..go fast and learn to be a body man ... go slow save your self hours of pained block sanding... although yours is th efloor so let her eat i guess....lol I'll end up being a bit of both, but because it is going to be covered with insulation and carpet, I won't be much of a perfectionist. Quote Link to comment
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