The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 At this point I still plan to, but if there is a real issue, I'll have to look to find a replacement. The more crap that I run into the more money has to be spent! You have something in mind? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 At this point I still plan to, but if there is a real issue, I'll have to look to find a replacement. The more crap that I run into the more money has to be spent! You have something in mind? If you were not going to use the head I was going to suggest you stick a long pry bar in the rear exhaust hole and pry up hard/hit it hard, but that could damage the head. You really don't want to hammer something in between the head and block, as that could damage the block surface. Everything I can think of involves hitting the head hard, and that could damage it. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Sooooo...you paid for a new L20B short block and they gave this.................. 'long block'???? Not sure what you paid...but I'd be pissed. Ship it back ASAP and get reimbursed Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 I'd ship it back before I removed the head........but..... Hold a 2x4 underneath the front of the head and give it a whack with a heavy metal hammer and or Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 I've been trying not to whack it too hard. I have been using both a rubber mallet and a plastic dead blow hammer, tapping it on the flat surfaces where the manifolds mount and on the opposite side where I can without doing damage. Once I got the front cover off, I was also tapping upwards from the front carefully. I'm going to keep spraying the liquid wrench all around the deck edges, in the bolt holes, and in the cylinders to try chemically loosening the problem, keeping the hoist on the head to use the upward pressure on it, and see how that works for at least a day or two, keeping my fingers crossed too! Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Sooooo...you paid for a new L20B short block and they gave this.................. 'long block'???? Not sure what you paid...but I'd be pissed. Ship it back ASAP and get reimbursed I know I didn't get what I thought I ordered. I'm taking pictures of EVERYTHING I'm running into and plan to send these folks a photo expose of what I got from them! If when I get the head off and find issues that require work be done, I'll contact them and see what they say. If it's not to my satisfaction, I'll file suit here in California and make them respond at their expense. So for now I'm doing what needs to be done to find out what the overall condition of the engine is before I contact them, but they will be hearing from me soon enough. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 I'd ship it back before I removed the head........but..... Stick a 2x4 underneath the front of the head and give it a whack with a heavy metal hammer and or That may be the next step, but for now I want to see if I can get the separation without any real hard hits that could cause more damage. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Just found this on another car site, thought it was funny so I copied it for a laugh........ "when i was a kid my dad had a irrigation well drilled and the welder man out working on the rig had a wisconsin engine that he flooded and dad said to take the plugs out and light a match at the plug holes and he said no he would put some accetelene in the carb and he did and dad had grandpa, hired man and i stand back and he cranked it over about 2 turns and it blew the head, carbuetor and intake off and it went over the fence and landed in the water at the lake about 100 ft away. he waded out and got the parts and threw it in the back of the truck and went to town. I would not try accetelene but it sure worked good that time " Funny huh? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Oh my, he is starting to think of interesting ways of removing the head, this is not a good sign. :hmm: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 If when I get the head off and find issues that require work be done, I'll contact them and see what they say. If it's not to my satisfaction, When you get the head off...then what???? How are you going to determine the condition of the pistons/rings<compression/bearings etc...etc....??? Sounds like a total rebuild coming up....I doubt the company will subsidize your 'efforts'... I'm sure they would rather replace it with another 'runner'... :) Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Oh my, he is starting to think of interesting ways of removing the head, this is not a good sign. :hmm: Lol, no just trying to keep a decent attitude under rotten circumstances! :frantics: Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 When you get the head off...then what???? How are you going to determine the condition of the pistons/rings<compression/bearings etc...etc....??? Sounds like a total rebuild coming up....I doubt the company will subsidize your 'efforts'... I'm sure they would rather replace it with another 'runner'... :) You may be right, I don't know what they will or won't do. I may already have to face just doing a total rebuild. When I got the first engine that was an L16 when I ordered an L20b, I had a gut feeling they weren't what I was looking for. When the first one came and it was loaded with manifolds, carb, clutch-pressure plate, fuel pump and lots of externals I figured they took the head and block, rebuilt them and put everything back and shipped it off. Their web page is deceptive because I know I asked for a "Rebuilt long-block" when I talked to the guy on the phone. It's blatantly obvious they sold me a "Used" engine after seeing the condition of the second engine sent! I called them as Wayno suggested and told them to send a truck to pick up the first engine they sent and that was now 2 weeks ago, still no truck. I know I'll never use these folks again, and I don't know exactly where this whole debacle will end up, but all I can do for the moment is keep going to see just how salvageable this block and head are. If it turns out they are trash, I'll sue. If I can deal with the issues, I think I'd rather not ever even waste a phone call to them again! I have an L20B block and head I didn't have before, if they don't send a truck (Like I think they won't!) I'll also have an L16 to use later. I just have to ride out the storm, see what happens. Chalk this up as a very interesting learning experience! I could have gone other ways and found something locally, but the way I went seemed alright at the time. Can someone reach behind me and take that "SUCKER" sign off my back please!! Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 I'm waiting for the battery on my video cam to charge, I'll record the efforts for you guys to see just how stuck this fkn head is! Tried the block of wood and small sledge hammer today! Stay tuned! Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Well, I got it off! What a pain in the ass! I had no luck whacking it upwards, so I flipped the engine on the stand, chained the hoist to the flipped over block, raised it up and using the 2x4 and the mallet took numerous hits to carefully chosen points all around the head till I was able to see light between them! It still took a while for it to completely separate, but when it did, I found that one of the broken bolts in the center that broke up high on the bolt was getting hung up in the bolt hole. It was seriously rusted and the weight of the head was hanging on that one broken bolt! Here's how it looked start to finish. The cylinder walls are smooth with a slight feel of cross-hatching, but the big thing is the broken bolts in the block now! I'll have the head looked at tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 It sorta looks like a peanut head, but I can't tell for sure from these photos. I still would find a A87 or U67 head if I were you. The block cylinders don't look that bad in these photos. BTW, that engine is not rebuilt, recently anyway. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 It sorta looks like a peanut head, but I can't tell for sure from these photos. I still would find a A87 or U67 head if I were you. The block cylinders don't look that bad in these photos. BTW, that engine is not rebuilt, recently anyway. LOL! I believe you're right! As for the head, I'm going to take it to my head shop to have him look it over and give me his assessment of it and how much it needs. I've hit up almost all the resources locally for a better head, but all I've been able to find is one 210 that was in sorry shape. If this W58 head is not going to need much, I'll use it till I do come upon a better choice head. The steel exhaust port liners were meant for use here in CA, and may be in my favor to use in case I have to get an initial smog reading for registration. I'm concerned more about the block and the bolt crap! I'll be scouting a machine shop tomorrow too. Several of the ones I knew of have closed down so now I have to find a good one and be local! Damned economy! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I wish you were closer, we have A87 and U67 heads in our wrecking yards around here all the time. I suppose if you decide to not use that head as it doesn't match your exhaust manifold, I could likely find you a head around here and ship it to you, but when you start having to buy and ship stuff, it starts getting expensive, but during thanksgiving weekend, it is usually 50 percent off, but who knows anymore, they might decide that that offer is only for there PNP card carrying customers, which I am not one of them, and never will be. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I wish you were closer, we have A87 and U67 heads in our wrecking yards around here all the time. I suppose if you decide to not use that head as it doesn't match your exhaust manifold, I could likely find you a head around here and ship it to you, but when you start having to buy and ship stuff, it starts getting expensive, but during thanksgiving weekend, it is usually 50 percent off, but who knows anymore, they might decide that that offer is only for there PNP card carrying customers, which I am not one of them, and never will be. If you happen upon a decent head let me know, I'm game! I put the feelers out with Allen from Datsun Parts out here to let me know if he finds one, but i haven't heard from him yet. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I've been putting the torch to the broken bolts stuck in the block trying to free them out. Spraying Liquid wrench, tapping the tops, re-heating them, no luck! Gonna keep at it till I get at least a few out. Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 put a nut over the broken bolt, weld the nut to the broken bolt, remove. Done and done. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 put a nut over the broken bolt, weld the nut to the broken bolt, remove. Done and done. I was going to try that with the one that sticks out the furthest after soaking it with Liquid wrench for a bit longer. These bolts are REALLY rusted in!! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 PB blaster man! Also, take a wire wheel around the little broken nubs and remove all the rust and shit possible, get it back down to the block and broken stud, so the chemical has a better chance of soaking down in there. Quote Link to comment
The Birdman Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 PB blaster man! Also, take a wire wheel around the little broken nubs and remove all the rust and shit possible, get it back down to the block and broken stud, so the chemical has a better chance of soaking down in there. never used PB Blaster, will give it a go! I did hit the stubs with a wire wheel, several of them had rust "Mounds" built up around the bolts, had to clear them off first. You think PB Blaster is better than L. Wrench? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Everybody says try PB Blaster and soak it. I just go the stuff myself but havent really tryed it out. As for the cam sprocket get the one with the v marks in back. DO not buy Melling, Cloyes brand timming kits. Tsubaki is the one to get but ck the box. Best are the 4 hole type sprockets if possible. I got the OSK Brand kits also thats multiholed as you but it has the V notch in the back. But I notice they fit slightly loose on the cam dowl pin. So it coul make the sprocket look a little off at TDC. At TDC the oil/dizzy spindal should be about 11.28. I see where yours is at. I can only assume the mount/pedastal for the dizzy was changed or dizzy got mismatched and the spindal was droped and moved a tooth. If you keep it like that youll be OK.If you put the oil spindal back in per the book you might be off when lining up the rotor to the cap. But I guess you get the picture. Sears sell the hood 10mm adpaters. USA and I think I got 2/3 of them . New Husky Tools are taiwan now used to be made same place as the sears craftsmans Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I've had really good luck with PB blaster, so I haven't tried any other brands. Blaster worked better than WD40 for me. Can't say anything about what you're using. Quote Link to comment
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