datsunfish Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I have been doing some work here and there on my LZ 24 build and the chain link issue has me concerned. I got the mercedes master links and have assembled it with 4 extra links but it seems a little sloppy. I went 3 and too tight,2 no deal at all. It seems to me that 2 masters replacing 1 would set it all off a half a link. What I consider 1 link is 2 rollers where 1 gear tooth sits between. I want to be sure it will time in correctly before it goes in something. Heres some pics. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 what kind of compression are you working with right now? if it has a little bit higher compression, you might be able to run a thicker headgasket to raise the head up... ? maybe? dunno... Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Well I think with an open chamber u67 I should be in the mid to high 9.1s This is a mock assembly without a head gasket so that would make up a bit but its got a bit of slack to go. See the chain tensioner rod? the old oil wear mark shows that its out way further. Had issues with the guides too. Had to bent the drivers side one to clear the head. Since its taller the angles make things intersect. No wonder people dont build this motor. haha Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 shit... i dunno cam tower spacers and thick headgasket? lol the timings gonna be all fuckerd if it gets ran like that... Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Its cool.any input is helpful. "There is a shadow that lurks around us at all times. A person so knowledgeable and understanding. A man who will fight for the freedom for all to not use the search function. He is known only as...umm Datsunmike!?!" Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Did you push the tensioner in ( with your fingers ) ,,, while adjusting chain ? EDIT: whoops been a long day , corrected my post ^ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Don't worry about how many links you use. Get it snug and the least amount of slack. There will always be the same number of links between the cam and the crank sprockets regardless of how many links used overall. Don't forget all the slack is on the chain tensioner side. The tight side will always be the same. Z24 with open L head is 9.47 comp. Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Don't worry about how many links you use. Get it snug and the least amount of slack. There will always be the same number of links between the cam and the crank sprockets regardless of how many links used overall. Don't forget all the slack is on the chain tensioner side. The tight side will always be the same. Thats the stuff. That makes sense,Im over thinking the whole thing a bit but it does seem a little loose still. But my L16 runs killer with a slack happy chain. I have jumped teeth several times. Head shaved into the a87 stamp with no shims. I just dont want this one to rattle like it does though. Quote Link to comment
spottedog Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Thats the stuff. That makes sense,Im over thinking the whole thing a bit but it does seem a little loose still. But my L16 runs killer with a slack happy chain. I have jumped teeth several times. Head shaved into the a87 stamp with no shims. I just dont want this one to rattle like it does though. I did one of these (it still runs!) I used a Felpro "head saver" copper shim and the Felpro head gasket on top of the shim with Copper Coat spray between them, also 2 cam tower shims, my chain was/is tight. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 lol... the other thing i though of was that adjustable timing chain tensioners that mounter in the inspection port of the front of the L head. i remember seein one in an old magazine... HA! edit Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Are those pictures taken without a headgasket in place at all?? I bet that the thickness of the head gasket will take up the slack in the chain. Maybe lfit the head off the block and slid a thin peice of cardboard(cereal box) to to be the gasket Might take two layers to equal the gasket thickness. Just to see what happens to the chain. Dont want to ruin a new gasket. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 IIRC the nisaan Z24 HG is 1.5mm, so that should fix the slack. both the TC i have, have the added 2 links. adjusting help, but the stock rails did not interfere w/the head. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 lol... the other thing i though of was that adjustable timing chain tensioners that mounter in the inspection port of the front of the L head. i remember seein one in an old magazine... HA! edit I just nutted over that picture, that is awesome!! Wonder if those are still available? Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 HRH... Those aint cheap... Mike? Can you make us some on the cheap???? http://www.prestostore.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/pd858282 Quote Link to comment
odmanjohnson Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I wish i could remember what i did to mine six years ago!! Luckily or (un-luckily) i didnt use the mercedes master links, with tons of datsun chains around i think i just took em apart and was able to use exactly the amount of links that made it tight. Like i said its been a long time. I do remember length of head bolts being an issue, the threads in the block were recessed. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 HRH... Those aint cheap... Mike? Can you make us some on the cheap???? http://www.prestostore.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/pd858282 That son-of-a-bitch is charging what it cost him to do the proto-type. Quote Link to comment
mr68gts Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Hmmm, while the design seems sound, that is awfully expensive. especially for what is probably a bunch of off the shelf parts with only a couple of plates being made to adapt it to the L series engines. I do like the fixed idler on the bottom but what I have a problem with is the way the adjustment is on the head. Obviously you have to be able to adjust the slack but with an aluminum head/iron block if your not careful the tension will be too tight on the chain causing premature wear on the cam tower or chain. (height grows with heat by x amount per degree, now mind you this is in extreme condition but still, leave it to someone to over tighten it cold and shits gonna go wrong.) Also, over time I'd be worried that the adjustment plate may work itself into a slack position because there will always be force trying to pull it away from center. Is that force strong enough to shift it? It may not move in reality but its just something I happen to notice. It may only need a lock bolt to make sure that over time, that adjusting plate don't slide back. (similar to the way some motorcycle chains are adjusted) I can't imagine the tensioner having that much affect on it due to drag but maybe. Paul Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Stop worrying about the tensioner coming loose... they got ya covered......... for a price. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt81970/pd1924438/T.I._CUSTOM_L6_TIMING_TENSIONER_LINK Quote Link to comment
mr68gts Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 LOL!!!!!!!!!!!! NO EFFIN WAY AM I SPENDING 250 (!) bucks on a chuck of hex rod that cost 3 bucks and 2 heim joints at 10 each plus the cost of 2 stainless SHCS at 1.50 each and a spacer that probably cost him 5 bucks for a foot of the material. Holy crap they're proud of it! :blink: Incendently, I made one at work in about 20 minutes to keep the magneto from moving at speed on the Comp Eliminator car we ran out of the shop while I was there. There's no way that's worth 250. Hell, the machine shop will probably charge you 40 or so to machine the hex rod, (mill the ends, drill and tap one left hand thread and one right hand thread) unless you work in a shop that has a lathe or access to one then it's free! :cool: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Nuts huh? Quote Link to comment
SpudWhitman Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 But how much for the CNC COMPONENTES and HIGH QUALITY FASTENERS to keep the alternator in place? Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 Adding unecessary bling to a datsun motor for $975? Which then requires you to pull the mechanical pump and install a electric one? Seriously? I've never seen one on a race car, or show car, or a street car, anywhere. Who the heck is buying this crap? Quote Link to comment
SpudWhitman Posted December 2, 2010 Report Share Posted December 2, 2010 There's one on the drag car mentioned today, but they may have machined it themselves. Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 But how much for the CNC COMPONENTES and HIGH QUALITY FASTENERS to keep the alternator in place? Hey, FutoFab's got that covered for $28.50. Alternator Adjustment Strut Quote Link to comment
Denken Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 How many people would be interested in this? I can possibly get them made if there is a decent demand. -Denk lol... the other thing i though of was that adjustable timing chain tensioners that mounter in the inspection port of the front of the L head. i remember seein one in an old magazine... HA! edit Quote Link to comment
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