Jump to content

This is a stupid problem to be having


metalmonkey47

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

"DTP I'm gonna kick your azz"

 

:rofl: ahhhhhhhhh it's been days in the making

 

Gots to watch my back :ninja: ( One Day Soon , I just might see a "Rustoleum Orange" 210 revving his engine in the corner waiting for me to cross the street ,,,,,,, "Shit it's happening RUUUUUNNNNNN !!! :frantics: )

 

Any progess update MM ?

Link to comment

spiders :rofl: :poke:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

can you access the back of it w/the valve cover off?

I was boored and they entertained me. lol

 

Nah, I thought of that already :(

 

That is not cause by over-torquing. It is because of aluminum-to-steel corrosion. The same thing can happen with a KA, so that's not really a solution.

 

The heating up idea will work.

 

I soaked it PB and I'm gonna heat it Tuesday when I'm off work. Hopefully the heat works like I hope it does.

 

:rofl: ahhhhhhhhh it's been days in the making

 

Gots to watch my back :ninja: ( One Day Soon , I just might see a "Rustoleum Orange" 210 revving his engine in the corner waiting for me to cross the street ,,,,,,, "Shit it's happening RUUUUUNNNNNN !!! :frantics: )

 

Any progess update MM ?

 

Rustoleum orange? Fool thats pumpkin! lol mines the red, black, white, primer, and bondo!

 

I've been working my new job, and working my other job in a few hours so I won't have time. Maybe tomorrow after work I'll get back to it. I'm just giving it time for now.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Alright, here's my plan for tomorrow;

 

1. More PB blaster

2. Apply heat to stretch the aluminum

3.File down 2 opposing sides to create a spot to grip.

4. Try the vise grips again!

 

 

 

 

 

Hopefully I can get it out dry.gif

 

 

 

If I can get that done early, I'm gonna clean up the garage and install my 4point harness and re-wire my dash. rolleyes.gif

Edited by metalmonkey47
  • Like 1
Link to comment

If you still have enough of the broken bolt or ez out left sticking out try knipex pliers,they look like channel locks but grab and hold much better than any vise grips,they arent cheap,about 30 bucks but they work ,ive used them on boken bolts that were snapped off down to about an eighth of an inch and they will grab good,use heat also.good luck.

Link to comment

ANYTIME THERE IS A STUD LEFT I POUND A 12 POINT SOCKET (ONLY THING THEY'RE GOOD FOR) ON IT AND RATCHET IT OFF.

 

OTHER TIMES I MAKE A STRAIGHT SLOT WITH MY DREMEL DISC AND USE A FLAT TIP SCREW DRIVER.

 

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS I DRILL AND TAP. COBALT BITS WORK GREAT BUT ARE HELLA SPENDY.

 

SORRY BOUT THE CAPS.

Link to comment

i usually break the bolt further when i grind a slot into the bolt to remove with a screwdriver (i use a bit adaptor with a small ratchet)

 

sometimes if i use a small pair of vicegrips to hold the top of the bolt together and stop it from bending outward - it works! maybe something to consider if you need to go that method

Link to comment

I have done this many times and it almost always works. Torch,candle,visegrips. heat up the stubborn bolt,not redhot just good and hot,take the candle to the bolt let the wax penetrate the threads and heat again and again melt a liberal amount of wax into threads.Heat,visegrips,turn counterclockwize. Good luck.

Link to comment

any of you guys ever tried a hammer and a chisel working around the outside edge as to chisel the bolt counter clockwise to get it out, i have done this many many times with great success!!!! make sure the chisel is sort of dull so it doesnt just cut a piece off of the bolt though. light taps and carefull holding of the chisel.

Link to comment

after looking at the picture you have plenty of metal left on that thing to chisel it out, try pb blaster and heat if you cant get it to move, use the pb after the bolt is warm so it will "sweat " up into the bolt hole just like if you were brazing joints on copper piping.

Link to comment

any of you guys ever tried a hammer and a chisel working around the outside edge as to chisel the bolt counter clockwise to get it out, i have done this many many times with great success!!!! make sure the chisel is sort of dull so it doesnt just cut a piece off of the bolt though. light taps and carefull holding of the chisel.

Yeah, that was already discussed, aka staking.
Link to comment

Yeah it didn't work :( I thought it might, but it just won't budge. I ground it off today with my new little die grinder and I'm going to drill into it tomorrow with a heavier EZ out. The one that went in before was WAY undersized.

Link to comment

Damn it !!! <_<

 

That really sucks !!! use drill bit lube too ;) ---> "Rapid Tap" :D

 

I just broke free the head bolt that snapped off in the block , and another one ( #3 cylinder head bolt ) broke one STRAIGHT INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK almost flush with the deck :blink: ,,, :rolleyes:

 

Drilling the center of that bolt out with a drill bit about 1/4 - 1/3 the size ( at most ) , and is now soaking in PB Blast Penetrating Lubricant :cool: ---> Planning to squirt before work , and after for a couple more days before trying a better brand of "extractors" ...

 

I feel your pain MetalMonkey ... :console:

 

( Dr. Peppa :ninja: )

Link to comment

Try center punching it first. Use a fairly slow drill speed and cutting fluid.

 

Great Advice , ^^^ Sounds like you have done quite a few of these man :cool: ( I did use a sharp punch on mine which is the only way to go :lol: ---> that or sideways all over the deck/head " fawking $%^& " :lol: )

 

I really like "Rapid Tap" Drill Bit Lubricant :D , and PB Blaster I have had best luck for cheapy penetrator , but I haven't tried all of them yet ? :unsure:

Link to comment

Great Advice , ^^^ Sounds like you have done quite a few of these man :cool: ( I did use a sharp punch on mine which is the only way to go :lol: ---> that or sideways all over the deck/head " fawking $%^& " :lol: )

 

I really like "Rapid Tap" Drill Bit Lubricant :D , and PB Blaster I have had best luck for cheapy penetrator , but I haven't tried all of them yet ? :unsure:

I've done a few. I like Tap Magic...I find the smell a lot nicer than Rapid Tap, but I'm weird like that. As for drill bits, titanium coated bits are great and all, but once you dull/sharpen them all you have is another high speed steel bit, so they're not really worth the added cost IMO.
Link to comment

I've done a few. I like Tap Magic...I find the smell a lot nicer than Rapid Tap, but I'm weird like that.

 

"Tap Magic" you say ? :D ... I'll have to try that .... thought the smell of "Rapid Tap" was just a bonus ! :lol:

 

Yet Again , at times ,,,, I like the smell of gas so yeah :rofl:

Link to comment

I was gonna make a funny about this post whoring whilst I wasn't paying attention, but I'm fucking irritated.

 

I did try and punch it, but that didn't even scratch it. In fact, it kinda messed up my punch.

 

 

 

 

Called some local race shops, who sent me to the shops that do their machining, who told me they couldn't do it and sent me to another shop, who told me it would be upwards of $200 to remove it/repair it.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.